SlowPushin

iTrader: (1)

This tc6 is my first electric car i run nitro at blue diamond . I noticed that the car chatters alot when cornering and also seems to have a fragil front end . what parts should i i convert over. but i dont want it to be a hack job .can any one help?

Troy Mckune

iTrader: (51)

At Nationals I got to pit with the AE boys. Bob Stellflue showed me what they do and it works great.

Just order 4 5x10x3 bearings from Avid or wherever. Get a set of Hot Bodes DCJ's. Dremel out the stock C Hubs. I actually threw them on the mill and ran a 3/8" mill down the middle. The only other change is you have to drill out the pin holes on the blades.

EDIT: You also need different hexes, pins, and shims to use on the DCJ Universals.

The result is lock to lock no vibration. It takes a bit to get use to because the car rolls through the corners better. The stock CVA's almost acted like drag break going in to corners.

Good luck.

Troy

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Wow, I should've just shelled out the coin for an XRay or the Schuie CX

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

JayBee, those are optional "tuning" parts on all kits as far as I know. My 008 actually had worse wheel chatter then the TC6. The car handles excellent even stock, these are just better. And BTW Xray = $100.00 per pair, Hot Bodies = $60.00 per pair, Spec-R= $40.00 per pair.

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

kevin, as stated the spec R are crap, ask jake or some of the locals that tried them, didn't last a heat race. see me this sunday, i take a schuie cx shaft out and see how it fits your needs, they are way better then the old (lp) shafts.

I wonder is AE will just start including the HB parts as standard equipment with the car if thats what the team guys are using.

hacker

iTrader: (141)

wishful thinking

I'm not sure with the fascination with chatter free steering. The tc6 out of the box is the best with the least chatter with standard kit parts. Plus you never notice the chatter once the car is on the ground. I've also seen alot of xray ecs failures in the past, so I'm not going to go there.

There was also talk of someone using losi lcd's on their tc5's on the other thread. Think losi Chub and uprights were required too. I had a losi up until recent, but the tc6 is that good out of the box, I did not even bother pursuing that mod.

benTC5

Hi Guys, I repaced the tc5 universals(shafts and everything with the Cyclone shafts. All was needed was to replace the bearings with 10x5x3 and I never had to rebuild them again. My problem was I had the crosspins break on me.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

For us non-engineers, do you have a pic of what you mean by this part?

"...ran a 3/8" mill down the middle"

Thanks!

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

I received the Hot Bodies shafts yesterday and they look to be better quality then the Spec-R version..BUT...they are not easily rebuildable. They do not use a set screw like most, and the cross pins appear to be pressed into the inner barrel nut. With a little work and a stout short pin punch, you could prob. fix these, but as they get sloppy your likely fighting a losing battle.

An endmill is a side and endcutting radial tool used in a milling machine. Unless you have access to a machine shop and a Brideport type machine you'll need to stick to the dremel option.

el salvador

iTrader: (7)

Oopps!............went too far, yet again!






Hi Kevin?

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

Did you leave out a few things...like you have to buy new wheel shim, new wheel hex's and new drive pins because the Hot Bodies axle is straight and does not step down like the AE's?? So it sits another week.

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

you should come over and go thru my junk drawer, i got all kinds of crap i can't seem to throw away, probably have so hexs in there.

by "drawer" I mean room full of boxes

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

Thanks Ritchie but that may be a goose chase. The Hot Bodies shaft splits the bearing section diameter and the threaded end in the middle of the hex it appears. I tried drilling out the AE hexes, but the fit because of the stepdown is very sad, wheel runnout way beyond what I'll run.

Guess it's just frustrating after buying the Spec R's, finding they are trash (008 backups at best), then quotes like the above that say just change bearing which is BS is irritating. The blade has to be drilled out (as Troy pointed out), bearings changed, C hubs machined out to .375 min, new axle shim, new hex drive pin (Hot Bodies .010 larger) and new Hot Bodies 5mm ID hex. For those interested, "that truly is all you gotta do"...(I hope). Had I known all these extra parts were involved I would have stuck with the AE's...but hey, those primroses sure smell good.

Troy Mckune

iTrader: (51)

Sorry man. I forgot this step because I just used some I had laying around for my old Top Photon. I think I just drilled them out 5mm. Yes you need different hexes that fit 5mm axles.

On the bright side your not trying to fit NT1 gear diffs into a T3. Ehrlich was over the other day and we modified parts on the lathe and mill for about 3 hours. Then he had another 7 hours into a few other custom parts and fitting them in the car.

Oh the things we do to gain a tenths of a second.

Troy

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

Here is what you need to convert the Hot Bodies DCJ driveshafts to fit the TC5 / TC6

Tools: Dremel with 1/8 rotary file - #40 .098 dia. drill bit - 1.5 and 2.0 mm hex drivers and wheel wrench.

Parts: Hot Bodies DCJ 67699 drive shafts - Hot Bodies HB70742 5mm wheel hex's (comes with 4 hex's, pins and screws) - CRC CLN 4741 5mm shims - stock TC6 blades - (4) 3 x 5 x 10 mm wheel bearings.

1) Drill blade pin holes out to .098 dia thru each side at a time and mount blades.

2) Remove C hubs from steering arm and take dremel and open the slot to .375 wide, this leaves .095 wall thickness on each side so watch wall on first side then open second side to keep symmetrical on C hub.

3) Insert new bearings into steering arm then mount up the C hub without the drive shaft for now. Then test fit the drive shaft by sliding thru opening into bearings, it should go thru without hitting now.

4) Mount assembly back into arms, add the new CRC shim, new HB pin (comes with hex kit) and new hex's (nice quality hex BTW), then bench test.

The Good, front drive chatter GONE very smooth, good quality parts. Driveshafts can now be removed without removing C hubs, no set screws to come apart on driveshafts.

The Bad, have to keep another bearing and spare hex size, the driveshafts are press fit pins (no set screw to rebuild), but looks like with some care and good short pin punches they could have new pins pressed in, and for now about $90.00 you have smooth driveshafts with no backups if 1 fails.

Track time will tell later if this was worth it...IMO questionable at this point...but I like for now.