Reflex Suspension Dynamics (RSD) TC6 Upgrades (vertical ball studs, pistons,etc)
#1126
Tech Initiate
Good new.
At the moment I use Yok 44mm Alloy bones with Yok gear diff.
It is 6 g lighter that standard one. ( good for rotated mass)
But I prefer use AE gear diff with your alloy bones.
Fred
PS: Sorry for my poor English
At the moment I use Yok 44mm Alloy bones with Yok gear diff.
It is 6 g lighter that standard one. ( good for rotated mass)
But I prefer use AE gear diff with your alloy bones.
Fred
PS: Sorry for my poor English
#1128
Has anyone tried this product:http://www.reflexracing.net/-QTEQ-64...104_p_997.html
Idbdoug
Idbdoug
#1129
Tech Initiate
The RSD6 looks very good.
But I have one question.
What is it the benefit of put the servo in this way like Yok, Tam, HB , X-ray..... ?
I compared the radius variations of the wheels between Tam and and TC6, and there are very quite the same.
What is the different between an dual point and a mono point steering system ?
Perhaps it is just to remove the screw on the top desk in order to improve flex in the front of the car ?
Or there is an other raison ?
Please help me...... Please explain to me.....
Fred
But I have one question.
What is it the benefit of put the servo in this way like Yok, Tam, HB , X-ray..... ?
I compared the radius variations of the wheels between Tam and and TC6, and there are very quite the same.
What is the different between an dual point and a mono point steering system ?
Perhaps it is just to remove the screw on the top desk in order to improve flex in the front of the car ?
Or there is an other raison ?
Please help me...... Please explain to me.....
Fred
#1130
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
1. Does it use tamiya compatible parts such as diff rings,bearings,etc
2. Any performance advantages over tamiya stock or is it just more durable. My stock unit is starting to get some play in the end component that holds tire. That's what prompted question about qteq diff cap.
Thanks
Idbdoug
#1131
It uses all Tamiya parts, but the fit on the rings is not as great. It has a little more slop on them, just very slight, I don't think this is a performance disadvantage as it is still keyed.
It is not more durable I'd say but adjusting it is a breeze and I really like that feature.
The end cap has a bit of slop, but when combined with the QTEQ end cap or Tamiya cap the slop is gone.
It is not more durable I'd say but adjusting it is a breeze and I really like that feature.
The end cap has a bit of slop, but when combined with the QTEQ end cap or Tamiya cap the slop is gone.
#1133
Thats odd. Ive been using DCJ's forever on dremel'd out c hubs and not had any issues at all. Are you running the 6.1 or 6 c hubs?
#1135
If you happen to still have any of those c hubs you broke, check them for air pockets. Some of the 6.1 c hubs have them. I would guess probably, cause the ones that do always break towards the bottom, and not in the middle. I run the 6 c hubs, even hogging them way out to fit a DCJ they seem to be more durable than 6.1 c hubs, you may want to give that a shot.
#1136
Tech Champion
iTrader: (38)
If you happen to still have any of those c hubs you broke, check them for air pockets. Some of the 6.1 c hubs have them. I would guess probably, cause the ones that do always break towards the bottom, and not in the middle. I run the 6 c hubs, even hogging them way out to fit a DCJ they seem to be more durable than 6.1 c hubs, you may want to give that a shot.
#1137
Correct. Just need to dremel them out to fit DCJs. You might want a 0.1-0.2mm shim on the c-hub hinge pins with the 6 c hubs, depending if/how much play you have.
#1139
TESTING
Did a lot of testing this past week with the RSD6, had a chance to run on a high grip asphalt small track (100x60ft) and a large medium grip track (250x75ft).
Learned quite a bit on the track. I have made some changes from the baseline.
-Roll center is now at 0B in the rear.
-Removed the arm sweep
-I am using 4mm hexes with 0.5mm wheel hex spacers.
-14.5lb springs in the rear as well.
-removed 0.3mm of rear toe in (for 3.0 overall degrees)
I am still trying to get a little more steering in for our high speed decreasing radius corners at both tracks, however I am trying to figure out if it is more initial or mid corner traction that I am looking for. I'll keep testing and I'll report back.
Learned quite a bit on the track. I have made some changes from the baseline.
-Roll center is now at 0B in the rear.
-Removed the arm sweep
-I am using 4mm hexes with 0.5mm wheel hex spacers.
-14.5lb springs in the rear as well.
-removed 0.3mm of rear toe in (for 3.0 overall degrees)
I am still trying to get a little more steering in for our high speed decreasing radius corners at both tracks, however I am trying to figure out if it is more initial or mid corner traction that I am looking for. I'll keep testing and I'll report back.
#1140
The RSD6 looks very good.
But I have one question.
What is it the benefit of put the servo in this way like Yok, Tam, HB , X-ray..... ?
I compared the radius variations of the wheels between Tam and and TC6, and there are very quite the same.
What is the different between an dual point and a mono point steering system ?
Perhaps it is just to remove the screw on the top desk in order to improve flex in the front of the car ?
Or there is an other raison ?
Please help me...... Please explain to me.....
Fred
But I have one question.
What is it the benefit of put the servo in this way like Yok, Tam, HB , X-ray..... ?
I compared the radius variations of the wheels between Tam and and TC6, and there are very quite the same.
What is the different between an dual point and a mono point steering system ?
Perhaps it is just to remove the screw on the top desk in order to improve flex in the front of the car ?
Or there is an other raison ?
Please help me...... Please explain to me.....
Fred