timmay70

iTrader: (5)

I've been running a thick (.06?) washer under the front screw on the old skool arms just using thinner washers to adjust ride height on both front and rear screws to make up for tire thickness.

Also on the paper shims for the camber adjustment, I use a tiny strip of tape at the leading edge, just after the front washer (.06) to hold the paper strip in place. It makes adjusting the ride height shims that much easier. Once in a while, when cleaning up the car (minor rebuild) I will change out the header card strip.

NitroHead

She's done!


I will be racing it next weekend, since I finished redecorating my living room.
Tomorrow is wifes birthday so I have to wait to put it down on the carpet...

THANK YOU MR. BRUCE CARBONEEEE!!!!

PS: Get ready to ship more kits in this direction. Getting inquiries that will turn into requests after next weekend!

BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

Why didnt you get the 4.5?

vic0280

iTrader: (24)

hey guys is bruce on this thread and if so, anyone know his screenname. trying to get a hold of him.

NitroHead

It is the 4.5, I just used old Rev 4 decal to fill in the space on the chassis...

vic0280

iTrader: (24)

really crazy i hope simple question for you guys.

just received my 4.5 in the mail and i am new to 1/12. also not mechanically inclined with drills and such.

is there an easy way to drill the holes for the servo mounts. what type of drill bit?

i wish this came pre done for lazy or incompetent people like me.

eforer

You can't pre-drill for servos because the horn offset is different on each servo. Having the servo saver centered on the chassis is essential. The JR for example is radically offset when compared to an airtronics servo. An sae 82 deg countersink and a 1/8th drill bit (a little large for a 4-40 screw but works fine) are what you need. You can get that stuff at any home depot type store. You need to mount the servo relatively forward so that their is suitable angle in the steering links to achieve correct ackerman. This is most easily achieved by setting the face of the servo case flush with the back of the front arms. Center the cervo so that the servo saver runs down the center line of the chassis. Mark the area behind the ears with a paint marker and just use a drill press or even a cordless drill to make the holes. Then just hit the underside with the countersinking bit.

Some drivers acheive good results using a combo of shoe goo and servo tape to secure the servo. The generally accepted practice for doing this effectively is using a square of very sticky servo tape that is smaller than the foot print of the servo outlined in shoe goo adhesive. Just plop it down and let it drive overnight. I personally prefer to screw down my servo, but many people do fine with this method. Its very secure. Just clean the area thorughly and make sure it is free of dirt and grease before gluing/taping it down.

Hope this helps

Arcer

Havent had a chance to scope out a 4.5 I have rev 4 now what is the difference betwen the 2? and is there upgrade for rev 4to the 4.5 thanks.

JoelV

iTrader: (4)

The 4.5 uses the new 4 bolt IRS pod plates. Info on the conversion is here:

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/Rev45Conversion.html

Arcer

thanks Joel

vic0280

iTrader: (24)

thanks eforer.

OVA

iTrader: (86)

It is there other one line hobbies that carry Speedmerchant ?? Thanks

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

here ya go:

http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=35188

OVA

iTrader: (86)

Thanks Mark
Any more option??

Dreddlox

iTrader: (7)

I just purchased a 4.5 and I'll be running on a high bite track and wanted to know what oil and spring I should use for the center shock and what tweak springs I should go with?

Thanks