Speedmerchant Rev.4
#181
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
quick question time. I was just double checking things while I wait for some parts to arrive so I can finish construction (a part I stuffed lol).
But anyway I was just checking the front end and I'm wondering is there supposed to be any free play/movment side to side in the king pins?
They move up and down nice and smoothly (polished them like it recommends) but as I said while double checking things I notice that on both the left and right steering units the lower hole is allowing the king pins to move slightly.
Thanks in advance.
But anyway I was just checking the front end and I'm wondering is there supposed to be any free play/movment side to side in the king pins?
They move up and down nice and smoothly (polished them like it recommends) but as I said while double checking things I notice that on both the left and right steering units the lower hole is allowing the king pins to move slightly.
Thanks in advance.
#182
Tech Regular
Does anybody have a good Rev 3 setup for asphalt road course?????????
#183
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by DLM2005
Does anybody have a good Rev 3 setup for asphalt road course?????????
Give this a shot:
Parma Speed 8 body
Parma Pink Rears, blue side springs, 7000 wt. ofna diff fluid in tubes, AE Red shock spring, 50 wt. oil in shock, batteries back, low roll-center suspension spacers
Parma Purple fronts .022 front springs, AE 2 degree caster shim under arm, adjust camber with business card stock untill tires wear flat, 0 deg. toe
Dope according to your handling preference. If the purple fronts don't have enough steering, try Violets.
Hope this helps,
Ian
Last edited by CypressMidWest; 08-23-2005 at 01:50 PM.
#184
Tech Regular
Thanks,I'll try it. My current setup is alot like my carpet setup wit a Bud's 5243 wing added - it works but I want to lose the wing. Also, I'm trying the BSR tires orange/purple fronts and xxpink rears or purple fronts and pink rears. And Paragon.
Last edited by DLM2005; 08-23-2005 at 01:54 PM. Reason: info
#185
Tech Master
Micro shock question.....
Just wondering if the VCS micro shock is supposed to feel "squishy" and seep oil around the shock shaft?
I assembled it according to the instructions and everything went well and the star clip is clicked in properly but if this was a shock on my TC I say it had an air pocket in it.
Thanks in advance.
I assembled it according to the instructions and everything went well and the star clip is clicked in properly but if this was a shock on my TC I say it had an air pocket in it.
Thanks in advance.
#186
540- You are correct, you should not have an air pocket or anything other than a buttery smooth shock, it can take a few tries but make sure to soak the foam in shock oil before you build the shock and also it doesnt hurt to polish the shock shaft and remove some of the debris from inside the shock body itself (left over from manufacturing). With a few attempts you should be able to get the shock TRF smooth.
#187
Tech Adept
Tring to get Bruce
Hi Bruce,
Hope you read here. I did email you.
I am wondering if your spam filters are blocking me out.
Left a message on your voice mail.
Please email [email protected] when you get a chance.
Hope to speak to you soon.
Regards
Mark
Hope you read here. I did email you.
I am wondering if your spam filters are blocking me out.
Left a message on your voice mail.
Please email [email protected] when you get a chance.
Hope to speak to you soon.
Regards
Mark
#188
Tech Initiate
Mark-I am not sure if Bruce checks here or not but I know lots of his "drivas" do check here often. If you have a question that you want answered those guys might help you, if not shoot me an email and i will pass it on to Bruce.
Hope this helps.
Mike
Hope this helps.
Mike
#189
Tech Adept
Thanks Mike,
Please do contact Bruce if you can. I would appreciate it.
I am trying to line up a Rev4 for the start of the 2005/06 UK national season. I have till 17th Sept (Round 1) to sort this. I did get emails through to Bruce in the beginning and had a reply but the subsequent emails with order and credit card info etc etc seem to have fallen on "deaf ears" as it were.
I am running out of time and I need to start building...
What else can I do?
Thanks and regards
Cheers
Mark
Please do contact Bruce if you can. I would appreciate it.
I am trying to line up a Rev4 for the start of the 2005/06 UK national season. I have till 17th Sept (Round 1) to sort this. I did get emails through to Bruce in the beginning and had a reply but the subsequent emails with order and credit card info etc etc seem to have fallen on "deaf ears" as it were.
I am running out of time and I need to start building...
What else can I do?
Thanks and regards
Cheers
Mark
#190
Tech Initiate
Mark,
I know Bruce has been busy getting ready for Vegas. I passed your post onto him and I will let you know if he gets back to me.
Take care.
I know Bruce has been busy getting ready for Vegas. I passed your post onto him and I will let you know if he gets back to me.
Take care.
#191
Tech Adept
Thanks Bruce
Hi Mike
Yes sorted... Bruce emailed me and the car and bits are on their way.
You were right... he is snowed under with prep for the Vegas meeting.
Thanks and regards
Look forward to speaking with you all soon.
Cheers
Mark
Yes sorted... Bruce emailed me and the car and bits are on their way.
You were right... he is snowed under with prep for the Vegas meeting.
Thanks and regards
Look forward to speaking with you all soon.
Cheers
Mark
#192
Tech Master
And now for another few questions.....
this time the side damper tubes.
Ok the first one is basic but not having done it before not so basic for me lol.
I assume the tiny hole in one end is to bleed them once the lube is inserted?
If so once done is it a good/bad idea to block them up/cover the hole with a piece of tape?
Secondly when applying the lube is it lube the inner and then put it in OR is it better to fill the outer tube first (and then wipe up the access from the above mentioned bleed hole either way)?
Thirdly and most importantly how free are the inner pistons supposed to be in the outer tubes when empty?
On one side if held vertically the inner piston will fall into the outer one all the way to the bottom (no I'm not covering the bleed hole with a finger or anything lol).....
BUT on the other side if you do the same thing the inner piston "stays" where you put it if that makes sense? Still smooth just not "free" so to speak.
Should I bin it and get another one perhaps?
I'm not to sure if I should be concerned because when you consider I'm going to put 7000 weight diff lube in it would it really matter?
Thanks in advance.
On a side note I am finding the building and dynamics (read fiddly bits of construction and set up) a lot more fascinating than when I was building my TC, go figure considering they look so simple.
Ok the first one is basic but not having done it before not so basic for me lol.
I assume the tiny hole in one end is to bleed them once the lube is inserted?
If so once done is it a good/bad idea to block them up/cover the hole with a piece of tape?
Secondly when applying the lube is it lube the inner and then put it in OR is it better to fill the outer tube first (and then wipe up the access from the above mentioned bleed hole either way)?
Thirdly and most importantly how free are the inner pistons supposed to be in the outer tubes when empty?
On one side if held vertically the inner piston will fall into the outer one all the way to the bottom (no I'm not covering the bleed hole with a finger or anything lol).....
BUT on the other side if you do the same thing the inner piston "stays" where you put it if that makes sense? Still smooth just not "free" so to speak.
Should I bin it and get another one perhaps?
I'm not to sure if I should be concerned because when you consider I'm going to put 7000 weight diff lube in it would it really matter?
Thanks in advance.
On a side note I am finding the building and dynamics (read fiddly bits of construction and set up) a lot more fascinating than when I was building my TC, go figure considering they look so simple.
#193
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
this time the side damper tubes.
Ok the first one is basic but not having done it before not so basic for me lol.
I assume the tiny hole in one end is to bleed them once the lube is inserted?
If so once done is it a good/bad idea to block them up/cover the hole with a piece of tape?
Secondly when applying the lube is it lube the inner and then put it in OR is it better to fill the outer tube first (and then wipe up the access from the above mentioned bleed hole either way)?
Thirdly and most importantly how free are the inner pistons supposed to be in the outer tubes when empty?
On one side if held vertically the inner piston will fall into the outer one all the way to the bottom (no I'm not covering the bleed hole with a finger or anything lol).....
BUT on the other side if you do the same thing the inner piston "stays" where you put it if that makes sense? Still smooth just not "free" so to speak.
Ok the first one is basic but not having done it before not so basic for me lol.
I assume the tiny hole in one end is to bleed them once the lube is inserted?
If so once done is it a good/bad idea to block them up/cover the hole with a piece of tape?
Secondly when applying the lube is it lube the inner and then put it in OR is it better to fill the outer tube first (and then wipe up the access from the above mentioned bleed hole either way)?
Thirdly and most importantly how free are the inner pistons supposed to be in the outer tubes when empty?
On one side if held vertically the inner piston will fall into the outer one all the way to the bottom (no I'm not covering the bleed hole with a finger or anything lol).....
BUT on the other side if you do the same thing the inner piston "stays" where you put it if that makes sense? Still smooth just not "free" so to speak.
540: I fill the ridges on the piston with the damper fluid then insert it into the tube. As for the "tight" tube, I would get some steel wool, or EXTREMELY fine grit sandpaper and lightly sand the piston, you won't have to take off to much to get it freed up.
#194
Tech Rookie
servo saver?
Hi, yet another stupid question from 1/12 newbie.
I glued Airtronics 94145Z servo to the chassis with
shoe goo, as people here recommended. Now I can not
find small enough sevo saver which will fit. The smallest
one from Kimbrough (part #113) is way too large.
I wonder what servo saver people are using, and where
I can order one (or half a dozen, to be precise :-).
Many thanks in advance.
I glued Airtronics 94145Z servo to the chassis with
shoe goo, as people here recommended. Now I can not
find small enough sevo saver which will fit. The smallest
one from Kimbrough (part #113) is way too large.
I wonder what servo saver people are using, and where
I can order one (or half a dozen, to be precise :-).
Many thanks in advance.
#195
Originally Posted by GrayRaven
Hi, yet another stupid question from 1/12 newbie.
I glued Airtronics 94145Z servo to the chassis with
shoe goo, as people here recommended. Now I can not
find small enough sevo saver which will fit. The smallest
one from Kimbrough (part #113) is way too large.
I wonder what servo saver people are using, and where
I can order one (or half a dozen, to be precise :-).
Many thanks in advance.
I glued Airtronics 94145Z servo to the chassis with
shoe goo, as people here recommended. Now I can not
find small enough sevo saver which will fit. The smallest
one from Kimbrough (part #113) is way too large.
I wonder what servo saver people are using, and where
I can order one (or half a dozen, to be precise :-).
Many thanks in advance.