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Old 12-23-2011, 04:04 AM
  #2191  
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anyone try the *gasp* ball diff in the rear?
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Old 12-23-2011, 04:13 AM
  #2192  
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what are they

i would never dream of using one of these ever again, here i see that some people do use them on carpet in Mod to i have seen but not in the serpent in the splutter something ray
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Old 12-23-2011, 04:23 AM
  #2193  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
From the words of Paul Lemiux.

"Hi. Lately i have found that rear diff fluid is best to be matched to the amount of traction that the track has. If their is lots of bite and you are running thin fluid i feel like the car is very hard to drive and can go off line easily. if their is very low bite and you are running too thick of fluid the car will be very loose coming off the corner and will never have consistent rear traction.
My rule of thumb now is.
low traction: 500
med traction 1000
high traction 2000
super high traction 3000.

Thanks!"

I have to admit, my setup I can can turn a single and faster lap than Jeffs setup, but its a total handful to wheel around and out track is small and very strange traction. Jeffs setup is by far much easier to drive and runs more consistent. Nice setup Jeff
next time paul is at our local track i will hit him up for some info on the diffs. but generally speeeking thin is traction and high is drive off the corners.. jeremy
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Old 12-23-2011, 04:37 AM
  #2194  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
From the words of Paul Lemiux.

"Hi. Lately i have found that rear diff fluid is best to be matched to the amount of traction that the track has. If their is lots of bite and you are running thin fluid i feel like the car is very hard to drive and can go off line easily. if their is very low bite and you are running too thick of fluid the car will be very loose coming off the corner and will never have consistent rear traction.
My rule of thumb now is.
low traction: 500
med traction 1000
high traction 2000
super high traction 3000.

Thanks!"

I have to admit, my setup I can can turn a single and faster lap than Jeffs setup, but its a total handful to wheel around and out track is small and very strange traction. Jeffs setup is by far much easier to drive and runs more consistent. Nice setup Jeff

hmm .. sounds a bit weird because my and marcs experience is that the car rotates better with soft oil in the gear diff - on other side, it gives more traction in and out of corner with thicker oil.

We used 700-800 in rear on a super high traction carpet track, on tracks with less traction we used 1200-2000.

Outdoor I used sometimes 3000 for a stable rear end.
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:19 AM
  #2195  
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thank you Kensei!
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:25 AM
  #2196  
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Originally Posted by corallyman
Awesome info James. Thanks!! When I built my original gear diff, I just built it stock and it still has yet to break in fully. When I build my LE here in about 1 week or so, I will look into this further.

Steve
try using toothpaste to break in the diff.

james - good info on the hinge pin block sizes...so it is 1.5mm for every 1.0 increment.
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:29 AM
  #2197  
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Originally Posted by #iZzy
hmm .. sounds a bit weird because my and marcs experience is that the car rotates better with soft oil in the gear diff - on other side, it gives more traction in and out of corner with thicker oil.

We used 700-800 in rear on a super high traction carpet track, on tracks with less traction we used 1200-2000.

Outdoor I used sometimes 3000 for a stable rear end.
Interesting...I have always run around 800 oil in my rear diffs. Whenever I went higher I found the car would push going in and over steer coming out.
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:41 AM
  #2198  
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Originally Posted by J.Whiting
give my setup a try.. http://serpent.com/product/400005/setups/ it is the top setup.. jeremy

I was just putting your setup on my car when I got to the rear outside upright. There you have 5mm of shims. When I dry fit the 5mm of shims there was only about 3mm of screw that was going into the plastic upright, which I thought would pull out... Did you do anything special to be able to add the 5mm of shims?
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Akhor
I was just putting your setup on my car when I got to the rear outside upright. There you have 5mm of shims. When I dry fit the 5mm of shims there was only about 3mm of screw that was going into the plastic upright, which I thought would pull out... Did you do anything special to be able to add the 5mm of shims?
Nope. That is how i run them. They will be fine. I am looking for longer ones this weekend eith my free time. I will let you know what i come up eith
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by The Teacher
Kensei, I purchased my kit from RCMarket and it had a 2mm upper deck with a 2.25mm lower chassis. From what I understand this was a special run of kits put together by the owner of RCMarket (someone correct me if this is wrong). In the normal kit I think the upper deck is 2mm and the bottom chassis is 2.5mm. Not knowing the level of traction at your track I would say try the car stock first and go from there. At most I would say get the 2.5mm top deck as a tuning option. The motor mount in your post is the one we are talking about. When I ran this motor mount back to back with the stock mount I felt like the car was more planted in the rear and more consistent in the corners. I know what is says on the Serpent site but this is just what I felt...??? Hope this helps...
Thanks, but I don't understand.
We race on asphal/tarmac tracks with low to medium traction.
Therefore I think much flex is needed. Consequently I don't understand why a 2.5mm top deck is to be used in such conditions, because this top deck makes the car stiffer, so less flex.
My first guess would be: 2.25mm chassisplate with 2mm flex topdeck. As advised to Martin Crisp in one earlier thread.

Last edited by Kensei; 12-23-2011 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:29 AM
  #2201  
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Originally Posted by Martin Crisp
Interesting...I have always run around 800 oil in my rear diffs. Whenever I went higher I found the car would push going in and over steer coming out.
So what you are saying is that you run around 800 oil under all conditions and temperatures.
So low traction, med traction, high traction and super high traction.

If that is the case then the whole discussion on different oils in the diff would be obsolete?
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:40 AM
  #2202  
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Default Diff Serpent S411

[QUOTE=Martin Crisp;10073485]try using toothpaste to break in the diff.

Wanna try breaking in the diff using toothpaste.
Could you please explain how to go about it?

Somewhat years ago I bought your chassis set up book and used it many times.
Now, 10 years after you wrote it, as you got into it, you yourself re-wrote the entire book, with updated, additional and more in-depth setup information.
How can I get my hands on that setup information, knowing that I don't have an Android, I-Phone or I-Pad?
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Old 12-23-2011, 10:00 AM
  #2203  
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Originally Posted by #iZzy
we never used that screw through the upper deck into the motor mount ...
Just to be on the safe side: that is on asphalt/tarmac? (not on carpet)

With kit motor mount?

Or with optional one piece motor mount?

Last edited by Kensei; 12-23-2011 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 12-23-2011, 10:52 AM
  #2204  
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Originally Posted by The Teacher
Martin Crisp, if you are looking for more flex I would try running the optional motor mount or the new flex upper deck. You could also try cutting the rear cross section on the stock upper deck. I've tried all of these things and found that a combo of the optional motor mount with the cut upper deck works best in low bite situations (on pavement). Have not tried this on carpet yet. Question, what thickness chassis did you get (bottom plate)?

You say for more flex try running the optional motor mount OR the new flex upper deck.

What about the optional motor mount AND the new flex upper deck?
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Old 12-23-2011, 10:59 AM
  #2205  
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well the spares I ordered two days after my kit arrived today but my kit still isn't here checked the tracking info on usps.com and it said the scheduled delivery is the 21st and is still in transit, no wonder the USPS is going bankrupt
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