Linguster

Part no is 160110 for the Serpent clear o-rings.

I have a mixed experience of the original clear o-rings. There seems to be a bigger tolerance expectations in the production than it is "healthy" for the function....

There is limited leakage with the clear o-rings but the movement of the piston is compromised. Last time I used them I needed to go through 30 o-rings to get a good full set of dampers.

I now use the ARC 104002, good movement but the downside is the leakage/air. I do rebuild after 6 ot 10 runs.

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

I just ran a 6 hour enduro with my car last weekend and everything went the full 6 hours just fine. I bought two bags of the o rings but had no issues finding similar performance o rings. They come in a pack of eight I believe. Try them out instead of the kit black o rings.

Steve

mazmo

iTrader: (4)

Cool are performance o rings Serpent?

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

The part number that Linguster gave is correct. They do come 8 in a bag. They are optional o rings for serpent cars but not exclusive to the eryx, I'm sure they fit all the on road cars shocks. I found they worked well for me and were not too loose or too tight. They provided a good seal on my shocks. In fact it was better than all the other seals that I had from previous cars that I tried. I did buy the delrin bottom inserts that you put into the bottom aluminum shock caps.

After the enduro that I ran, 3 of the 4 shocks were still nice and did not leak or suck in air. One shock did, but I noticed that one needed some work before the enduro even started to be perfect but I ran out of time to fix it. We finished 2nd with no breakages or issues except the motor was extremely slow for some reason.

Steve

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

I have not driven my tourer since November at the nationals but My shocks are still perfect from that event using the 110160 orings and the delrin guides. i would recommend anyone upgrade these shims as they make for butter smooth shocks. If you want to splash some extra coin the titanium shafts are even more butter. This car is super durable and has a large tuning window. The main options needed are the 1.5/0.5 split blocks and the DCJ shafts for the front.

Mazmo, hit up walter rc in Sydney for your parts. They have everything and ship fast at reasonable rates.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

I have never had any luck with green slime and serpent orings. With all their kits the original black orings are rubbish. The clear ones are much better. IMO You are much better off soaking the orings in a light weight oil for a few hours then build. I am using the 110160 orings in my buggy and they are just as nice as the much loved Kyosho X-rings I paid $10 for.

mazmo

iTrader: (4)

Awesome advice guys .. cheers 160110 seem the go then. Tempted to try the x shaped oring as well (standard in earlier kits).

Yep already visiting Walter on regular basis

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

I had some blue in color x rings, maybe Tamiya, not really sure but they did not work for me in the serpent shock. I also tried some yellow o rings from a Japanese aftermarket company that I had, super nice but they didn't work well either. They serpent clear is the best that I found.

My serpent gear diff is the same too. All serpent parts, no green slime, no anything. No leaking at all. This is the V3 diff btw.

Steve

mazmo

iTrader: (4)

Thanks mate .. will save me some reseach and development time.
Picking up the Serpent clear orings tomorrow delrin shock guides too

Re: toe blocks .. tried 1.0 deg front / front with kit 1.0 deg front / rear split blocks (so no inborad front toe).

Seemed to give more initial turn in. Also agressive on power mid corner steering .. so much so it sometimes became loose on power.
Guessing resultant narrower front track width may havee contributed?

Any thoughts re: front toe block set up (am using kit toe blocks in rear)

Benzaah - I see you are using 1.5/0.5 split blocks up front.
So 1.5 front / front & 0.5 front / rear?
How did this change the car for you?

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

I've never had a leaking stock or diff on my ERYX. All stock kit parts and I've done several big multiple day races with my car and the shocks have stayed air free and sealed! Strange how it seems to differ kit to kit?

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I have a pretty good shock build using Traxxas x o-rings, yokomo shims and Tamiya bladders. I will try to get some pics and part numbers for you guys. The nice thing about this setup is the o-rings don't swell, and the leakage and tension can be controlled with the shims. Makes a real nice tunable shock when its all together.

Linguster

Thanks Gary, You always find a way to improve a already good solution

dawgmeat

iTrader: (9)

Just picked up a fine tune body mounts and for the life of me I can't insert the orings into the thread body. Ant ideas thanks in advance

Linguster

You need to be patient... I think I used a tweezer to get one side of the O-ring in the small "guide ring" in the tread body and slowly go from there. First one was the hardest.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Perseverance is the key! I used a little bit of silicone grease on them which seemed to help a little bit. To be honest with you I ended up taking them off the car in the end. I couldn't get the body low enough with them on!