valk

iTrader: (13)

just had a look at rcmarket and it looks like i can upgrade one of my 411's to eryx, including chassis plate for $251. not bad. i MIGHT be able to get $250 for one of them, and still have to shell out another $250. so thats a rough decision lol.

probably wont bother until im on the same lap as blake. until then, no amount of money spent is gonna matter me thinks.
Think i finished 13th overall in tc stock last race i ran. other than practice on race nights, i had never actually raced the 411 before that day. put in a best of 28 laps on carpet.
season before, when i ran my e4rs on ashphalt, similar size track i did 26 laps for best.
the year before, with tc5, did 24 laps lol. progess is slow and steady but upgrading to newer equipment, paired with my 8000+km of vrc and race time has certainly showed their merit.

but, 411 is definitely the nicest car to drive ive owned so far. the e4 was real aggressive and if your driving style suits it, it is very fast. the 411 is fast with default settings and EASY to drive fast. im sure if i upgrade to the eryx, id see a similar improvment. not as drastic due to experience limits, but mayb ewhen i catch up to some of you regional or national level racers.

next year i want to do some roar races. will stay with serpent for sure!

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Ed, I'm confused how you set up your steering values on the transmitter. Im wondering if it's different because you have sticks? Can you explain how you set up your radio when you get a new car as ill be getting to that point in the next few days with my new car. Ie starting points for the steering dual rate and end point adjustments. For example I set my dual rate to 100% and my end points are at 135% to get the c hubs touching. I have the dual rate turned back to 75% and run -20% expo. Do you set the dual rate to 150% and a lower end point? Is there any benefit from doing it either way?

Regards Benzaah.

PS can you get any of those funky carbon wings yet?

BCDK

Hi.

We let an extreme good driver try our new Eryx. Normally he drives a BD7, but he don't like it. It is difficult to drive and find a setup for. His words. Therefore, at the last race he drove a T4, which he borrowed from another guy. It was much better than his own BD7 and he ended up second at the race.

After the race he then tried our Eryx. Two laps to feel the car, and then he was fast. His words: it is so easy to drive and it handles extremely good. Allthough he had two days with the T4, it was way more hard to drive. Is was not as stable as the Eryx. Again: his words - not mine.

What is more to tell? He ran an Awesomatix before, own a BD7 at the moment, he tried the T4 for a whole race and could have chosen it, as it was better than the BD7, but I know, he has now ordered the Eryx - and that after trying it for maybe just 10 laps.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

yeah on the futaba its different, closer to center. i am also using the std serpent Horn.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

dual rate is dependant on EPA. if you set your EPA to 100 and Dual rate to 70. you are using less lock of course. personally i always set EPA to just before hubs lock out from lock to lock with dual rate maxed. then on teh track turn down dual rate as per needed. that way you max dual rate you will never stall the servo on the lock on the hubs.

Holmenkollen

I let a very fast driver test my Eryx and it had much more steering than his 417X. This on very tight indoor track.

The car is very good out of the box but I´m having some off power push. The car will not dive into the corners as much as I like. Mid-turn and out the car has massive steering. Some tweaks needed but it´s really good out of the box.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

When setting up a new car, I just leave everything on the radio at 100% to start with.

Personally, I prefer to get the steering all straight in the car first mechanically, using a combination of servo link length and horn angle (both by offsetting splines, and sub trim on the radio), so that on the gauges I get equal L-R lock. Then, I simply up the Dual-rate to get max lock.
As mentioned, 115% on the D/R with everything else at 100% gives full lock on my setup. And I'm pretty happy with my method, as I checked locks on track, both exactly the same Takes a bit of time to get right, but worth it, IMO

Ed

P.S. Wings are on hold atm... few issues with making them at work...

wee

iTrader: (1)

hi guys i need help after building my new kit i found out that the actual toe in for the rear is only 1.5 deg but the lower arm block says 3.0, should it be
3.0 deg? but why i only got 1.5 deg, did i do somerthing wrong here?

pls adv
tks guys

regards
stephen

Holmenkollen

You have probably put the front rear split blocks wrong.

wee

iTrader: (1)

hi holmen,
yes u r damn right i got it wrongly fix. now i got 3 deg
tks again
cheers mates

ps i like this kit and serpent 4 ever

LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

just tried the xray offset spur in the car (that i seen recommended). it will work, but fits like crap. the offset really throws it off center to the car and the offset side comes very close to rubbing the belt. i do not recommend these spurs. i'll have to get some of those serpent spurs to try. the tc6 spur fits the car very nice but we're limited on spur sizes.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

If you happen to get one of the new cars, this may help you out.

http://www.serpent.com/product/400013/tech-tips/

or here, same text but links to reference pictures.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/serp...zer_BuildTips/

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys a saw a pic of marc fisher holding an orange wrappped transmitter......does he use the m11x?

Steve S

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Gary. I got a new set of arms, and I did wonder about them being so tight on the hingepin. I left them as-is, and it does seem to work fine.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

If TC6 fits, maybe try Kimbrough?

-Mike