16LikesSerpent S411
06-13-2012, 09:35 PM
#3706
06-13-2012, 11:17 PM
#3708
STUFF
Servo low profile high torque type such as FUTABA 9551, SAVOX 1251 or similar metal gear ball raced variant.
LiPo weight will vary depending on brand but average will be 300 grams.
Cheers Ren
06-13-2012, 11:35 PM
#3709
Body will depend on track and handling you wish to achieve. PROTOFORM Speed6 of variants, LTC or varients, BITTY Sticker, BLITZ XFR etc etc .
Servo low profile high torque type such as FUTABA 9551, SAVOX 1251 or similar metal gear ball raced variant.
LiPo weight will vary depending on brand but average will be 300 grams.
Cheers Ren
Servo low profile high torque type such as FUTABA 9551, SAVOX 1251 or similar metal gear ball raced variant.
LiPo weight will vary depending on brand but average will be 300 grams.
Cheers Ren
06-14-2012, 12:02 AM
#3710
06-14-2012, 04:15 AM
#3711
Pre trimmed ?
Are you thinking we run foams ? Electric TC racing is a 99% rubber tire affair anymore.
The suggestions for body's are spot on. I like to start with a speed 6, and go from there. It is a great all around body, but check out what the locals are running, it is a good indication of what works at the specific track.
Are you thinking we run foams ? Electric TC racing is a 99% rubber tire affair anymore.
The suggestions for body's are spot on. I like to start with a speed 6, and go from there. It is a great all around body, but check out what the locals are running, it is a good indication of what works at the specific track.
06-14-2012, 06:14 AM
#3712
2) gear diffs, and many run a spool up front (solid axle)
3) negative. use what you have
LRP SXX V2 TC Spec is my ESC of choice. The stock spec is also good. Tekin RS/RSPro are also very popular. In blinky, most anything will work, but the advantage of those 2 is that you will have more setup help from others at the track with those, and they will work if you move on to other TC racing (mod, etc).
Faster servos are better. You will want to be faster then .10, torque of 100 oz/in+. Low profile gives more room for mounting electronics but is not necessary. Savox 1251 or 1258, Futaba BLS551, KO 2413, all good options. Savox draws higher amperage so use a capacitor to prevent brown outs. Does not happen to all people, but it is cheap insurance.
No lipo weight restrictions, though the class usually has a minimum total car weight.
06-14-2012, 07:17 AM
#3713
Pre trimmed ?
Are you thinking we run foams ? Electric TC racing is a 99% rubber tire affair anymore.
The suggestions for body's are spot on. I like to start with a speed 6, and go from there. It is a great all around body, but check out what the locals are running, it is a good indication of what works at the specific track.
Are you thinking we run foams ? Electric TC racing is a 99% rubber tire affair anymore.
The suggestions for body's are spot on. I like to start with a speed 6, and go from there. It is a great all around body, but check out what the locals are running, it is a good indication of what works at the specific track.
06-14-2012, 07:22 AM
#3714
Thanks for all of your answers!
I actually purchased one of the s411 from the guy who posted 2 of them for sale on this thread. He has a carpet setup, so I'll need to get an outdoor low tracktion setup from someone.
I'll go ahead and get a low profile.
I'm trying to pick up a stock spec from this one guy. He has the USB to come with it which is cool. I have two lrp in my 1/10 offload. A tc and comp spec. It'll be cool to keep it in the family!
From what I've found In off road, you need a cap if using spectrum receivers with high current servos. Once I went to airtronics, problem solved.
Do 17.5 require a heatsink on motor?
Thx
I actually purchased one of the s411 from the guy who posted 2 of them for sale on this thread. He has a carpet setup, so I'll need to get an outdoor low tracktion setup from someone.
I'll go ahead and get a low profile.
I'm trying to pick up a stock spec from this one guy. He has the USB to come with it which is cool. I have two lrp in my 1/10 offload. A tc and comp spec. It'll be cool to keep it in the family!
From what I've found In off road, you need a cap if using spectrum receivers with high current servos. Once I went to airtronics, problem solved.
Do 17.5 require a heatsink on motor?
Thx
1) 1 piece motor mount, steering rack with adjustable ackerman, new shocks
2) gear diffs, and many run a spool up front (solid axle)
3) negative. use what you have
LRP SXX V2 TC Spec is my ESC of choice. The stock spec is also good. Tekin RS/RSPro are also very popular. In blinky, most anything will work, but the advantage of those 2 is that you will have more setup help from others at the track with those, and they will work if you move on to other TC racing (mod, etc).
See what others are running for bodies, as they tend to be somewhat track dependent. Same goes for wing mounting positions.
Faster servos are better. You will want to be faster then .10, torque of 100 oz/in+. Low profile gives more room for mounting electronics but is not necessary. Savox 1251 or 1258, Futaba BLS551, KO 2413, all good options. Savox draws higher amperage so use a capacitor to prevent brown outs. Does not happen to all people, but it is cheap insurance.
No lipo weight restrictions, though the class usually has a minimum total car weight.
2) gear diffs, and many run a spool up front (solid axle)
3) negative. use what you have
LRP SXX V2 TC Spec is my ESC of choice. The stock spec is also good. Tekin RS/RSPro are also very popular. In blinky, most anything will work, but the advantage of those 2 is that you will have more setup help from others at the track with those, and they will work if you move on to other TC racing (mod, etc).
See what others are running for bodies, as they tend to be somewhat track dependent. Same goes for wing mounting positions.
Faster servos are better. You will want to be faster then .10, torque of 100 oz/in+. Low profile gives more room for mounting electronics but is not necessary. Savox 1251 or 1258, Futaba BLS551, KO 2413, all good options. Savox draws higher amperage so use a capacitor to prevent brown outs. Does not happen to all people, but it is cheap insurance.
No lipo weight restrictions, though the class usually has a minimum total car weight.
06-14-2012, 07:35 AM
#3715
Thanks for all of your answers!
I actually purchased one of the s411 from the guy who posted 2 of them for sale on this thread. He has a carpet setup, so I'll need to get an outdoor low tracktion setup from someone.
I'll go ahead and get a low profile.
I'm trying to pick up a stock spec from this one guy. He has the USB to come with it which is cool. I have two lrp in my 1/10 offload. A tc and comp spec. It'll be cool to keep it in the family!
From what I've found In off road, you need a cap if using spectrum receivers with high current servos. Once I went to airtronics, problem solved.
Do 17.5 require a heatsink on motor?
Thx
I actually purchased one of the s411 from the guy who posted 2 of them for sale on this thread. He has a carpet setup, so I'll need to get an outdoor low tracktion setup from someone.
I'll go ahead and get a low profile.
I'm trying to pick up a stock spec from this one guy. He has the USB to come with it which is cool. I have two lrp in my 1/10 offload. A tc and comp spec. It'll be cool to keep it in the family!
From what I've found In off road, you need a cap if using spectrum receivers with high current servos. Once I went to airtronics, problem solved.
Do 17.5 require a heatsink on motor?
Thx
The Serpent website has team driver setups including many outdoor asphalt ones.
I am an LRP guy myself and have been very happy. I have a V1 comp, 2x V2 stock specs, 1 V2 TC spec, and an IX8.
Spektrum and Savox both seem to be more prone to the brownout issues. Something about the amount of Amp draw at full lock. They tend to be less expensive for similar ratings though. I run the KO's in both my Serpents and love them.
No requirement for a heatsink, but running a fan is something I would recommend. You can sticky tape one behind the motor (next to the layshaft) pointing at the motor. Super easy. I am doing that currently with a 30mm fan on my VTA car. My TC, I got a snazy mount someone made that holds a 25mm fan up above the motor on an angle. It lets you get to the layshaft screws which is nice. A cooler running motor performs better and lasts longer, so there is rarely a reason not to do some type of active or passive cooling.
06-14-2012, 07:50 AM
#3717
Not being an expert in heat material transfer dynamics, I have no idea, but my car runs cooler blowing air over the motor. For me, I think it is due to the fan's seeming to have more airflow on the push side then the pull side.
06-14-2012, 08:00 AM
#3718
I don't know what you are talking about.
Then consider putting the fan on the other side of the motor. Then you have the force of the motor and forward movement of the car taking the heat out the back of the car. Don't create a fight of air movement within the car. Its these stupid little things that make the difference between 2nd and 4th place 
Oh and that 2nd place might just come in 1st without the 4th place changing the laws of physics.
Don't listen to him, my car came off at 135 last night, his came off at 180.
Not being an expert in heat material transfer dynamics, I have no idea, but my car runs cooler blowing air over the motor. For me, I think it is due to the fan's seeming to have more airflow on the push side then the pull side.
Not being an expert in heat material transfer dynamics, I have no idea, but my car runs cooler blowing air over the motor. For me, I think it is due to the fan's seeming to have more airflow on the push side then the pull side.
Oh and that 2nd place might just come in 1st without the 4th place changing the laws of physics.
06-14-2012, 08:06 AM
#3719
Just remember, you have a lot more nicer stuff then I do and you leave it at the track more often.
No, those stupid little things make the difference between 2nd place by 2 seconds and 2nd place by 4 seconds. The stupid big things are being taken out by an Xray driven by an ADD rc car douche (twice!) and are the difference between 2nd and 4th.
Then consider putting the fan on the other side of the motor. Then you have the force of the motor and forward movement of the car taking the heat out the back of the car. Don't create a fight of air movement within the car. Its these stupid little things that make the difference between 2nd and 4th place
06-14-2012, 08:08 AM
#3720
Then consider putting the fan on the other side of the motor. Then you have the force of the motor and forward movement of the car taking the heat out the back of the car. Don't create a fight of air movement within the car. Its these stupid little things that make the difference between 2nd and 4th place Oh and that 2nd place might just come in 1st without the 4th place changing the laws of physics.
Oh and that 2nd place might just come in 1st without the 4th place changing the laws of physics. Just remember HCRCR and a 14 year old showing you whats up and preventing you bumping to the A... 