Team Corally RDX Touring Car
#8911
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by T1Raycer
what the deal with corallyusa?? my friend order some parts and didnt receive it !! and he ordered like 2 weeks ago???? i order some new arm and i receive it in one week????? i want to put a another order but im not too sure now!!
it is because they praticing and there busy whit the race at vegas???
Later!!
it is because they praticing and there busy whit the race at vegas???
Later!!
NEXT ORDER THE 3 of us go in together this time right????
#8912
Team EAM
iTrader: (79)
Originally Posted by T1Raycer
what the deal with corallyusa?? my friend order some parts and didnt receive it !! and he ordered like 2 weeks ago???? i order some new arm and i receive it in one week????? i want to put a another order but im not too sure now!!
it is because they praticing and there busy whit the race at vegas???
Later!!
it is because they praticing and there busy whit the race at vegas???
Later!!
EA
#8913
Tech Champion
iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Ive dealt with Custom's with about every country out there and I can tell you that Canada is the WORST one out of all of them!! I feel sorry for you guys that live there!! So I would imagine that its a customs problem and not Corally USA as they always get orders out fast.
EA
EA
Yup-shipping to Canada sucks and dealing with all the e-mails from your consignee about where there stuff is-did you ship, why cant i get any info from your tracking number, etc. gets OLD really fast. lol But like a sucker I keep shipping rc stuff to people in Canada.
#8914
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
its hit or miss, i can get parts in 4 days form hongkong to canada. But crossing the great un-defended boarder is a mystery.. UPS is by far the best way to get raped at customs..
I have had good and bad crossing the boarder. Most good comes from non UPS shipments. CRC sent me a 12th scale in less the 7 working days, motek a chassis in 10 days... i have waited 3 weeks in the past for stuff.
Corally may or may not ship the same day you order online too right? So that can add to the wait, and u have no idea when they actually ship..
I have had good and bad crossing the boarder. Most good comes from non UPS shipments. CRC sent me a 12th scale in less the 7 working days, motek a chassis in 10 days... i have waited 3 weeks in the past for stuff.
Corally may or may not ship the same day you order online too right? So that can add to the wait, and u have no idea when they actually ship..
#8915
Originally Posted by T1Raycer
what the deal with corallyusa?? my friend order some parts and didnt receive it !! and he ordered like 2 weeks ago???? i order some new arm and i receive it in one week????? i want to put a another order but im not too sure now!!
it is because they praticing and there busy whit the race at vegas???
Later!!
it is because they praticing and there busy whit the race at vegas???
Later!!
Practicing doesn't come before business unfortunately. haha.
Jeff
#8916
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Yup-shipping to Canada sucks and dealing with all the e-mails from your consignee about where there stuff is-did you ship, why cant i get any info from your tracking number, etc. gets OLD really fast. lol But like a sucker I keep shipping rc stuff to people in Canada.
#8917
Tech Champion
iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by Joel Lagace
Hey support your CANADIAN brothas. We attend lots of your races and buy lots of your products.
Last edited by rayhuang; 09-11-2006 at 07:24 PM.
#8920
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
Shipping from the US to Canada does suck.... however, we are a growing and dedicated collection of RC enthusiasts. USPS seems to be the best choice. UPS - I know what they chose the color brown.
So far I've been really lucky with Corally direct... Jeff's team has been great in shipping stuff over.
So far I've been really lucky with Corally direct... Jeff's team has been great in shipping stuff over.
#8921
aigth so shipping to canada its big deal i guess!! im thinking if i should swicth to the T2(xray Canada) lol!! im jokin i love the rdx too much to change chassis! it just weird that it take 1 week for my new arm and 2 week for my other friend and didnt receive yet!! anyways im not telling corallyusa dont do a great !! im sure they do the best they can do!! i was pretty supricse when i receive my arm in one week! it was fast! anyways i order some other stuff we will see how much time this one gonna take!!
and Joel Lagace next order its gonna be the three of us(me,you and Mr.Palmer) it gonna be a big one i think hehe!!!
comon Canada its great country but shipping from the us suck i guess i dont know anything about that!! it was my first order of my whole life on the internet!!
Jeff Brown-- your gonna see my name a lot in your email because now i order parts from corallyusa only hehe!! so put me in your best customers hehe!!
Later all !!! have a good day!
and Joel Lagace next order its gonna be the three of us(me,you and Mr.Palmer) it gonna be a big one i think hehe!!!
comon Canada its great country but shipping from the us suck i guess i dont know anything about that!! it was my first order of my whole life on the internet!!
Jeff Brown-- your gonna see my name a lot in your email because now i order parts from corallyusa only hehe!! so put me in your best customers hehe!!
Later all !!! have a good day!
#8922
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
Originally Posted by syndr0me
I just heard someone else mention this the other day. I use both, and haven't noticed any binding, but I guess I'll check again next time I've got the car together.
The pin on my car is binding inside the arm, so when I just use e-clips the rear hub rotates freely around the stationary pin with a little unwanted movement as the hub hole is a tad larger than the pin. When I use the set screw alone or the e-clips plus the set screw the hub binds because the hub is keyed by the set screw to the pin which binds in the arm. There is no slop this way though. The weirdest thing is that the pin only binds on one side. I have both e-clips and the set screw on the other rear arm and it is free with no slop. At first I thought "bent hinge pin" but after replacing with several new pins I have the same issue. I think the "no slop-no bind-set screw plus e-clip" side has just been on the car so long that it has "broken in" and is free. Just checking to see what others have experienced.
Does anyone else get stiff movement of their straight pins in new arms (old style 75 hardness) ???
#8923
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
OK, I think I understand that more castor (ie going from 4 to 6 degrees) gives more initial steering. Does, and if so how, it have any affect on on-power steering.
I am still learning and have so far equated corner entry with off power steering and corner exit with on power steering.
The reason I ask is that our new layout has a sweeper in it that all the other cars were carving at full throttle. I have been running 6 degree hubs to get more steering but have since adjusted accordingly. Every time I tried to go full throttle through the corner more than 3inches off the boards, my car would swing WAY wide and smack the outer board. Would going back to teh 4* c-hub help recover some on power steering? I had plenty of steering in the infield where it was slow.
Sorry for the long post. Just trying to sort this all out in my head so I can rely on my own knowledge more at the track rather than always buggin Mr. McGoo with my issues.
I am still learning and have so far equated corner entry with off power steering and corner exit with on power steering.
The reason I ask is that our new layout has a sweeper in it that all the other cars were carving at full throttle. I have been running 6 degree hubs to get more steering but have since adjusted accordingly. Every time I tried to go full throttle through the corner more than 3inches off the boards, my car would swing WAY wide and smack the outer board. Would going back to teh 4* c-hub help recover some on power steering? I had plenty of steering in the infield where it was slow.
Sorry for the long post. Just trying to sort this all out in my head so I can rely on my own knowledge more at the track rather than always buggin Mr. McGoo with my issues.
#8924
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
The pin on my car is binding inside the arm, so when I just use e-clips the rear hub rotates freely around the stationary pin with a little unwanted movement as the hub hole is a tad larger than the pin. When I use the set screw alone or the e-clips plus the set screw the hub binds because the hub is keyed by the set screw to the pin which binds in the arm. There is no slop this way though. The weirdest thing is that the pin only binds on one side. I have both e-clips and the set screw on the other rear arm and it is free with no slop. At first I thought "bent hinge pin" but after replacing with several new pins I have the same issue. I think the "no slop-no bind-set screw plus e-clip" side has just been on the car so long that it has "broken in" and is free. Just checking to see what others have experienced.
Does anyone else get stiff movement of their straight pins in new arms (old style 75 hardness) ???
Does anyone else get stiff movement of their straight pins in new arms (old style 75 hardness) ???
#8925
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Ive dealt with Custom's with about every country out there and I can tell you that Canada is the WORST one out of all of them!! I feel sorry for you guys that live there!! So I would imagine that its a customs problem and not Corally USA as they always get orders out fast.
EA
EA