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Old 01-22-2006, 11:13 AM   #5251
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I had my RDX for about 3 months and ran it on carpet with foams. I didn't have any arm breakage problems, but I have seen lately that others seem to be having issues with them.
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Old 01-22-2006, 12:09 PM   #5252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
As much as I like the convenience, I'd be willing to give it up for additional durability.
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Old 01-22-2006, 12:11 PM   #5253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatboy Joe
I have only broken 1 arm to date. It's the kit supplied arm, 75%carbon content. I have crashed numerous times, and sometimes kinda hard but so far i've been lucky. The best way to keep them arms breaking is by not crashing The RDX is a very good car and the arms issue aint a big thing in my opinion. Just my .02

Btw, what does raisng the rear roll center do to the car's handling? Does it give it more grip entering a corner? Thanks.
Raising the roll center in the rear will keep the car more flat and roll less to the outside through the corner. Makes the front more aggressive and helps to free up the rear a bit.

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Old 01-22-2006, 12:14 PM   #5254
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Originally Posted by GMSchmidt
I have an additional question for you guys: What does the ultra low roll center blocks do for the car? I notice both Tosolini's and Cuff's setup sheets show they use them.
Good to hear you figured out the diff issue. Usually any diff problems are related to the snap ring.

The low roll blocks makes the car roll more to the outside through the corner. Seems to help with corner speed as the car wants to carve better. I would only recommend these for carpet as the car feels lazy and slow on asphalt with them.

Jeff
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Old 01-22-2006, 12:15 PM   #5255
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Originally Posted by Z.Hallett
ive got a question conserning the complete diffs. one do they come with the white light weight pullies? also do they come with the new updated diff bolts? thanks for the help
Yes, they come with the white pullies as do all kits now. Regarding diff bolts it depends on how old the diff is. I don't believe any diffs with the black header card will contain them. I have seen the diff rebuild kits now with the improved diff bolt, but they have the newer grey header card attached.

Jeff
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Old 01-22-2006, 12:34 PM   #5256
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Jeff - we are running on medium bite carpet. My car is good, but it has a push going on right now (enters the corner fine, but pushes out too far afterwards). I'm basically running Cuff's setup from the web. Except I don't have:
- 4.0 mm chassis
- ultra low hinge pin mounts
- 6 degree hub carriers.

I can pick any one or all of these up at my lhs (all of them are on the shelf). I trying to decide if I should buy one or more of them to try and fix the push. The car is so hooked up, the back end will just not rotate fast enough. Something is needed to free the car up.

My thoughts are:
- the thicker chassis could stop any flexing and maybe decrease corner bite
- the 6 degree hub carriers might help me finish the turn harder
- low hinge pins ??? - still not sure if that will help or make it worse.

After the push is figured out, the car will be perfect. Thanks for any advice you can give.
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Old 01-22-2006, 01:07 PM   #5257
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GMSchmidt,

You can get some more corner speed and rotation w/o the 4 mm chassis. Myself and Jim Herrmann (TQ) ran the 3 mm chassis at the novak race (ultra high bite) and made the A in stock foam. I would recommend the 6 caster degree blocks and the ultra low pin mounts. I would also try going to 33 lb front springs and 22 lb rear springs once you have those two things.

NOTE***

On Jeff Cuffs' setup from Vegas, he ran the ackerman at it's shortest position, unlike what it says on the sheet. He has told me this and said he forgot to change it on there. This also helps with mid-exit steering and makes the car smoother.
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Old 01-22-2006, 01:17 PM   #5258
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Thanks for the quick response Brian. I'm going to go ahead and pick up the 6 degree castor blocks for sure. I'll try out the Ackerman position as well. I haven't tried moving that around on the car yet.

Because I'm an offroad gas buggy guy converting to onroad - my setup changes don't apply sometimes. My 1st attempt was to lower the rear upper camber link. That didnt' fix the problem (seemed to make it worse). It's funny to me how some things are so different between the 2 worlds. For example: more castor in onroad seems to equal more steering. In offroad, more castor helps a car round a turn better, but takes away infield steering.

I'm still learning, but I'm enjoying the onroad thing. Thanks for the help.

Greg
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Old 01-22-2006, 01:25 PM   #5259
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More caster will give more mid and exit steering and and take away a bit of entry.
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Old 01-22-2006, 01:35 PM   #5260
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The mind boggles. :-)
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Old 01-22-2006, 02:18 PM   #5261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMSchmidt
Thanks for the quick response Brian. I'm going to go ahead and pick up the 6 degree castor blocks for sure. I'll try out the Ackerman position as well. I haven't tried moving that around on the car yet.

Because I'm an offroad gas buggy guy converting to onroad - my setup changes don't apply sometimes. My 1st attempt was to lower the rear upper camber link. That didnt' fix the problem (seemed to make it worse). It's funny to me how some things are so different between the 2 worlds. For example: more castor in onroad seems to equal more steering. In offroad, more castor helps a car round a turn better, but takes away infield steering.

I'm still learning, but I'm enjoying the onroad thing. Thanks for the help.

Greg
Angling the rear camber link will give you more stability through the corner. That is why it made your situation worse.

Regarding caster, like Brian mentioned it does take away a bit of initial steering but carpet racing is so twitchy and high grip its ok. It really helps mid to exit steering with the increased caster.

Jeff
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Old 01-22-2006, 11:28 PM   #5262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMSchmidt
Thanks for the quick response Brian. I'm going to go ahead and pick up the 6 degree castor blocks for sure. I'll try out the Ackerman position as well. I haven't tried moving that around on the car yet.

Because I'm an offroad gas buggy guy converting to onroad - my setup changes don't apply sometimes. My 1st attempt was to lower the rear upper camber link. That didnt' fix the problem (seemed to make it worse). It's funny to me how some things are so different between the 2 worlds. For example: more castor in onroad seems to equal more steering. In offroad, more castor helps a car round a turn better, but takes away infield steering.

I'm still learning, but I'm enjoying the onroad thing. Thanks for the help.

Greg
Come up to Springfield IL and run with us at www.Allensrccars.com I'm the lone RDX and I wax T2's every weekend along with 415's we run rubber and foam stock and 19t theres a big oval race soon so theres been a lot of oval cars lately but we still get in we had 15 sedans and 19 ovals today... like to run with ya
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Old 01-23-2006, 12:17 AM   #5263
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Default RDX arm breakage

I built my RDX in a hurry 2 weeks ago to make the second leg of the WCIC series this weekend. I have to say that I beat the car really bad trying to work through it's response to set up changes. Zero breakage! Honestly, boards, corner dots, pipes, you name it, a real shame to say the least but, my expectations were high. The RDX was structurally up to the task and responded well to changes. Just keeps getting faster!
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Old 01-23-2006, 08:19 AM   #5264
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Still having dome corner entry push and need some help. Don't know what else to try...Here's my setup:
50wt Oil Front 30LB Spring..Tried 60wt and it pushed like a you know what
40wt Oil Rear 26LB Spring
1mm Uptravel Front
2mm Uptravel Rear
Shortest Possible Camber Links Front and Rear
2nd hole from outside on front tower, closest to the wheel on bottom
2nd hole from outside on rear tower
Ultra Low Roll Blocks Front and Rear
3.9mm Chassis with 4mm Top Deck
Tried both Plaid/Purple and Cyan/Magenta tire combo's with identical results
30 degree both way ackerman
4.5mm Ride Height all around. Tried playing with raising the rear a little..same result.
4 Degree Caster Blocks
1.3mm shock pistons all around
High Traction Carpet

Am I missing something here?!? The only thing the car lacks versus the "Brand X" is initial turn in. Other than that, I dumped my "Brand X" and picked up a spare RDX! Need some help!!!!! Should I try raising the rear roll center next?
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Old 01-23-2006, 08:55 AM   #5265
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Maybe loosen your front droop screws a bit to give it about 1.5mm of uptravel. That will help the car turn in a bit harder. Also on the camber links, are you running the upper or lower row? And Also what front shock tower are you running? A standard one you lowered by drilling new holes or the actual lowered front tower from Corally?

-Korey
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