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Old 12-12-2010, 08:26 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by kid TT-01
If your upgrading to the lipo chassis, i suggest you get the stiff top deck. It will have excessive flex using the lipo chassis.

On the Sakura (not s) I noticed it was flexing to much using the standard top deck with post. Stiffer top deck is a must imo.
+1

But even then, you still need the chassis to flex "a little bit" to help with the car's handling...
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by monkee
who has the upgrades shocks in stock?

that rcmushroom site is out of stock
Guess I was lucky... I got the last piece maybe. Wait for quite some time it will be available. This set comes neat with a very nice packaging. Compared to my TRF416 HL shocks, the Sakura aluminum shocks is shorter.
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:45 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by monkee
i havent built mine.. or started it. im hoping to start it tonite or tomorrow nite.
i think what overgear is saying is that the S kit is a better value.
even spending a few extra dollars on a couple important upgrades like the chassis and springs (i dont care about the chassis but the springs seem important) you will save money over buying the fully loaded zero model.

i paid 122 for my S kit shipped. granted im in the US. im not sure what prices are in malaysia.
but other than old tamiya tt01 kits, i dont know any other rc car you can get for that kind of money. especially one thats competative.
Take extra care while threading on the plastic parts - don't over tighten. Also it will be helpful to take note of the few mods which was posted earlier in this thread before you start the assembly. I built my friend's Sakura "S" with a 30,000cst Kyosho diff oil on the front and a 2,000cst Mugen diff oil on the rear. Still have to do some test this weekend if the diff action/reaction will be fair...
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Old 12-12-2010, 09:35 PM
  #139  
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Does anyone have this pic saved? Not sure which screws go where


Originally Posted by over gear
a typo in the manual. the screws in the red circle should be M3x8, not m3x10

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Old 12-12-2010, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by monkee
Does anyone have this pic saved? Not sure which screws go where
I believe it was meant for this: (just click on the thumbnail).
Attached Thumbnails 3Racing Sakura Zero S-m3x10.jpg  
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Old 12-12-2010, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by monkee
i havent built mine.. or started it. im hoping to start it tonite or tomorrow nite.
i think what overgear is saying is that the S kit is a better value.
even spending a few extra dollars on a couple important upgrades like the chassis and springs (i dont care about the chassis but the springs seem important) you will save money over buying the fully loaded zero model.

i paid 122 for my S kit shipped. granted im in the US. im not sure what prices are in malaysia.
but other than old tamiya tt01 kits, i dont know any other rc car you can get for that kind of money. especially one thats competative.
This were the mods which I was referring to:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...38119022904244

Good luck...
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:05 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by monkee
who has the upgrades shocks in stock?

that rcmushroom site is out of stock

got mine from ebay - dinball/rcmart. free shipping but took 2 weeks to get here. try rcmart and speed post if you're needing them in a hurry.
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by poop
got mine from ebay - dinball/rcmart. free shipping but took 2 weeks to get here. try rcmart and speed post if you're needing them in a hurry.
sorry, just checked - both out of stock. gotta be quick! seem to be selling like hot cakes.
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by OverGeared
I believe it was meant for this: (just click on the thumbnail).
we have similar screen name
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:02 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by over gear
we have similar screen name
Yup! Twin brother... maybe?
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:11 PM
  #146  
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Nice timing!!
That's right where I am in the build
So far, very pleased with how smooth the build is going.
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:19 PM
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I see how those m3x10's could be an issue in the center because the bulkhead isn't deep enough
Seems like the rear of that set could accept a m3x10 but I'll use an 8 like it suggests



**edit
Lol the new pic shows 10 in the rears!
:P
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:39 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by OverGeared
+1

But even then, you still need the chassis to flex "a little bit" to help with the car's handling...
I get that, but it has far to much flex with the kit top deck, with the stiffer top deck it minimizes the amount of flex but still has more then enough for the car.
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:58 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by kid TT-01
I get that, but it has far to much flex with the kit top deck, with the stiffer top deck it minimizes the amount of flex but still has more then enough for the car.
+1 again...
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Old 12-13-2010, 12:05 AM
  #150  
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I would imagine the flex in this chassis will be pretty good for low traction tracks and I will not be surprised it will be more forgiving car to drive on low traction surfaces.
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