Ofna Ultra GTP2e
#2041
Not a GTP2E, but I found this video of DM1 hitting some guy at 100mph
http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=76d_1405948955
Video is 5 months old from youtube, but the comments on liveleak are funnier.
http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=76d_1405948955
Video is 5 months old from youtube, but the comments on liveleak are funnier.
#2042
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Not a GTP2E, but I found this video of DM1 hitting some guy at 100mph
http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=76d_1405948955
Video is 5 months old from youtube, but the comments on liveleak are funnier.
http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=76d_1405948955
Video is 5 months old from youtube, but the comments on liveleak are funnier.
#2043
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Carpet track, great traction, way too much power and transponder. The setup is now dead on. Rear end is planted enough to drive out of any corner. Still need to add the pivot ball rear, but now mostly for a tuning aid to add more rear toe. The car was running 9.5 second laps on a track where 21.5 pan cars are running 9.1 fastest laps. Still not at WOT, but it sure is fun to drive!
#2044
Tech Rookie
that video is crazy. make sure you have 1 foot driver stand for safety.
#2045
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
#2046
Tech Adept
Hello, are there any tips to prevent blow overs on the GTP 2E during highspeed runs?
I currently lowered the CG of the car by placing the shocks in the lowest settings, installed a XO-1 front splitter (JUST INSTALLED HAVEN'T TRIED IT YET!), X3GT Body, yellow front springs, and white rear. The rear diff is filled with heavy grease, and the front is filled with the stock supplied fluid from the OFNA manufacture. I was wondering if I could add a rear diffuser too.
I've experienced a really light front on previous runs which resulted in blow over after blow over. Do you think this could be caused by turbulance of some sort air being trapped? I have not added weights, but am possibly thinking of doing so... Has anyone cut out the rear body with success for this issue?
No tires as of yet, was running PMTs with good success, but tried some OFNA Foams and they exploded after a few minutes of running with no success. I ordered a set of Sweep GT's to try next.
I currently lowered the CG of the car by placing the shocks in the lowest settings, installed a XO-1 front splitter (JUST INSTALLED HAVEN'T TRIED IT YET!), X3GT Body, yellow front springs, and white rear. The rear diff is filled with heavy grease, and the front is filled with the stock supplied fluid from the OFNA manufacture. I was wondering if I could add a rear diffuser too.
I've experienced a really light front on previous runs which resulted in blow over after blow over. Do you think this could be caused by turbulance of some sort air being trapped? I have not added weights, but am possibly thinking of doing so... Has anyone cut out the rear body with success for this issue?
No tires as of yet, was running PMTs with good success, but tried some OFNA Foams and they exploded after a few minutes of running with no success. I ordered a set of Sweep GT's to try next.
#2047
could use a rear diffuser maybe the one off the dm-1
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ear-Bumper-Set
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ear-Bumper-Set
#2048
I've been thinking about getting a 1/8 onroad because, afterall, it's a tough buggy platform. However I'm hesitant to buy anything OFNA. More importantly, I want a car that will have good parts support in the long run. Has anybody been running these 1/8 onroads long enough or watched the class long enough to gauge how long these kits stay in production?
A little more off topic is the chassis setups with motor forward and two battery boxes versus the standard layout with motor back and there is only 1 battery box. For OFNA, this would be comparing the GTV2E to the GTP2E, or the Serpent GTE to the Kyosho GTVE. Both layouts seem to work for people, but I'm trying to weigh the options. If the Kyosho has support for a long time (which I think they do), and the GTV2E will not, then I don't see the benefit of the dual battery boxes over the parts support.
So in essence, which kit would be good for a basher like me considering the few criteria mentioned above? I really like the Serpent GTE because of all the shiny parts but am considering starting out with a cheaper kit like the DM-1, for example. I was going to just throw in my Castle 2200kv, play around with gearing and my 2 x 3s SMC lipos that I just bought.
A little more off topic is the chassis setups with motor forward and two battery boxes versus the standard layout with motor back and there is only 1 battery box. For OFNA, this would be comparing the GTV2E to the GTP2E, or the Serpent GTE to the Kyosho GTVE. Both layouts seem to work for people, but I'm trying to weigh the options. If the Kyosho has support for a long time (which I think they do), and the GTV2E will not, then I don't see the benefit of the dual battery boxes over the parts support.
So in essence, which kit would be good for a basher like me considering the few criteria mentioned above? I really like the Serpent GTE because of all the shiny parts but am considering starting out with a cheaper kit like the DM-1, for example. I was going to just throw in my Castle 2200kv, play around with gearing and my 2 x 3s SMC lipos that I just bought.
#2049
Tech Adept
Really thinking about buying one of these and use my Castle 1518 motor and try 8s
#2050
I've been thinking about getting a 1/8 onroad because, afterall, it's a tough buggy platform. However I'm hesitant to buy anything OFNA. More importantly, I want a car that will have good parts support in the long run. Has anybody been running these 1/8 onroads long enough or watched the class long enough to gauge how long these kits stay in production?
A little more off topic is the chassis setups with motor forward and two battery boxes versus the standard layout with motor back and there is only 1 battery box. For OFNA, this would be comparing the GTV2E to the GTP2E, or the Serpent GTE to the Kyosho GTVE. Both layouts seem to work for people, but I'm trying to weigh the options. If the Kyosho has support for a long time (which I think they do), and the GTV2E will not, then I don't see the benefit of the dual battery boxes over the parts support.
So in essence, which kit would be good for a basher like me considering the few criteria mentioned above? I really like the Serpent GTE because of all the shiny parts but am considering starting out with a cheaper kit like the DM-1, for example. I was going to just throw in my Castle 2200kv, play around with gearing and my 2 x 3s SMC lipos that I just bought.
A little more off topic is the chassis setups with motor forward and two battery boxes versus the standard layout with motor back and there is only 1 battery box. For OFNA, this would be comparing the GTV2E to the GTP2E, or the Serpent GTE to the Kyosho GTVE. Both layouts seem to work for people, but I'm trying to weigh the options. If the Kyosho has support for a long time (which I think they do), and the GTV2E will not, then I don't see the benefit of the dual battery boxes over the parts support.
So in essence, which kit would be good for a basher like me considering the few criteria mentioned above? I really like the Serpent GTE because of all the shiny parts but am considering starting out with a cheaper kit like the DM-1, for example. I was going to just throw in my Castle 2200kv, play around with gearing and my 2 x 3s SMC lipos that I just bought.
The GTP = ofna ultra/lx buggy. IRRC it was released in the late 90s or early 2000s. They still make them
Some of the GTP specific parts might become hard to find someday.
The kyosho gt = MP7.5(or 777 idk which), It was released shortly after the ofna
#2051
The dual battery setup for the serpent has one major downfall......there is no room and maintenance is a pain in the arse........ I have my gtp2e on the way. I think the quality will be ok...not serpent quality..... But parts are really cheap.....I don't think I will have to worry about parts in the future.....at least one or two years...guessing here.... When a diff goes bad in my gtp2e I will probably just replace the entire diff.....
#2052
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
I'm running my GTP2e against a field of Serpent Cobras and I'm dutifully calling it the Honey Badger
I'm running a SNR Graphite chassis, DM1 rear arms (with pivot balls), center spool and no chassis braces for increased flex to get extra traction. I feel this setup is quite competitive and I have no plans to switch to a different chassis anytime soon.
I'm running a SNR Graphite chassis, DM1 rear arms (with pivot balls), center spool and no chassis braces for increased flex to get extra traction. I feel this setup is quite competitive and I have no plans to switch to a different chassis anytime soon.
#2053
Ya the GTP2E is 1/3 the price of the Serpent. For the ~$400 you spend on the Serpent, you can buy a range of hopups and another GTP2E! It just bugs me that if I want to put two batteries in this thing, that I will have to either modify the battery box it comes with, or buy another and strap it to the top of the center diff plate like I've seen others do.
#2054
Ya the GTP2E is 1/3 the price of the Serpent. For the ~$400 you spend on the Serpent, you can buy a range of hopups and another GTP2E! It just bugs me that if I want to put two batteries in this thing, that I will have to either modify the battery box it comes with, or buy another and strap it to the top of the center diff plate like I've seen others do.
I will start out using 4s myself, but would rather try 6s with a lower kv motor for better efficiencies. Some 6s batteries may fit the ofna tray.
#2055
Tech Initiate
I am building my second gtp2e. I can safely say that I only broke parts with a 2650 kv motot on 6s. 6s is the devil. If you stay out of 6 s you wont have to worry about buying diffs. And even then only had to replace a rear diff once and 1 spur gear. And that was on 8s.