Interesting.. because where I race, I am the only one with a 21.5 brushless, everyone else runs silvercan and they were all walking past me on the back straight… that's why I ended up advancing the timing past the motors hash marks.

The only option I see would be to spec a brushless motor that doesn't have timing adjustment on the end bell.

Yes, Sunday's winter series race. The odds of me making it on a Wednesday night are nil, as it's a four hour drive.

Last year I just turned down my throttle until I couldn't turn the fastest lap in each heat. It was a bunch more fun than lapping everybody, so I'll probably do it again.

I would fully support going only brushless, as long as there is an RPM limit. Otherwise it's just a matter of finding the 21.5 with the highest RPM at the factory timing setting.

I can provide the tachometer at the series races to measure brushless motor RPM while the motor is in the car.

My apologies here, as this is sort of off subject.

I'll get anything that doesn't have mechanical stops on the timing adjustment. (And used, since I'm cheap!) The Novak Ballistic comes to mind (as Raman uses), but there may be others. Advancing the timing far enough to get the same top speed as a silver can will reduce the efficiency and power output, but it should still be quite sufficient. However, it is very hard on the ESC, as the ripple currents go way up, so one needs to be careful.

I have the Revtec, the one on the TCS allowed motor list. If I leave the timing at 40 Deg., which is factory max, it's the perfect amount of speed and and heat.

Since its a 21.5 I can't imagine it being very hard on ESC's. I run a Novak Edge and had little issues.

I'll also be using the Edge, since I have one.

21.5 motors aren't hard on ESC's until the timing is really advanced. At 90 degrees, any ESC will go poof. And the motor won't turn at all! So I won't do that.

If I get a Ballistic, I'll measure how far the timing must be advanced to get the same kV rating as the TCS-spec silvercan, and post the result. Or perhaps you can do this, and save me some effort? I'd appreciate it!

My cars are all in storage at the moment.. But I can tell you it wasn't 90 degrees.. Yikes. I think the Novak timing sticker goes upto 45 degrees. The max I went was another 15 degrees.. So 60 if my memory serves well is more than enough

Hi, kukride.what's the weight on the brass clamps

They are each 12 grams

Just build it per the manual, use the longer rods on the back shocks and fit the 2 black o-rings on the outside of the shock. This is the opposite of the "trick" on the FWD cars, on them they sit too high so you put the o-rings inside the shocks to limit the droop and give a low ride height. The 06 rear end runs low anyway and we find that if you run 50D tyres on the high bite carpet the rear end tends to bottom out and you loose traction badly when powering out of corners. Reason for this is being rear drive it exacerbates weight transfer/rear end squat to the already rear-biased back end and the car is basically sledging on the chassis plate. Running something like a Pit Shimizu 60D Soft slick (PS-0452) will sort this out. I don't recommend their Super Soft though, it's a fantastic tyre gripwise and makes the car so easy to drive its unreal but the inner walls on mine came apart after 2 heats as they're so thin which is pretty poor.

It'd never happen. Look at the rear overhang on a 1:1 4C to see why, it's basically hasn't got one so there'd be nowhere to put the motor, it'd have to be stuck out of the rear of the shell which would just be wrong.

Now a DeLorean on the other hand...

Hy guys,

some update on my personal carpet setup.

last weekend , 1st carpet TCS was held in our local Series.
M-Chassis was the class with most entries :)

The Carpet had a very high grip level , and only non-oil additives were allowed. ( SXT 3.0, Mighty Gripper V3...)
After struggling the whole training day and the first two Qulifiying Heats for finding the right setup (i had so much understeering) , following setup made me smile :)

M-06R :
Front:
Type A (glued on the side)
SXT 3.0 Additive on the inner side of the Tire (for 20 minutes)
tires not heated
300 oil
blue springs
no sway bar

Rear:
Gear Diff
S-Grip (full Additive for 30 minutes)
400 oil
Red Springs
no sway bar
carbon Damper Stay - dampers on the outest position (straight up)
AND:
Red HUBS mounted reverse !!! Left on the right side and right on the left side- for nearly 0 degree on the rear.

And guys believe me, that was really awesome.
fastest lap times and fastest heat.

finally ended up in 2nd position, because i lost a tire in the finals *g* because it was not tightened strong enough -> i feel ashamed , because i was in first position with about 6-7 seconds ahead of the second one...

nevertheless i was that happy, because i knew the car is so fantastic , as long as the setup works fine...

maybe this may help one of you :)

Aitutaki congrats, what wheelbase and body? Hope there are videos :)

I agree with the gear diff :nod:

Congrats to you also from me, Aitutaki!

For sure we want to know every detail of your setup.
Spring set from the R-Kit I guess?
Shock length/ground clearance? ;)

Last time I raced TCS 2 years ago, only Type A Slicks were allowed. Are you allowed to use M-grips in Austria?
Tough job you did chasing the FWD´s, too bad with the tire.:flaming:
What motor did you run, and which battery?

Our spec racing class changes to Lipo next year, so I´m just thinking about taking the M06 back out and try to bring the power of the Lipo on the carpet.
Also thinking about new tire choices, so I´ll probably have to try your mixed setup with Slicks and Radials!

Keep on the good work,
Br Matthias

thanks :)
but i am sorry, no chance to make some movies during driving :lol:
i will ask some other driver to make a video next race in january...
but i attached a photo before starting the finals

and i switched from m-05 ball diff to gear diff during finding the right setup. there is no need for balldiff on a high grip carpet track i guess..

thanks also :)
kit springs (the black ones) you are right.
shocks are build as mentioned in the manual.the length depends on the ground clearance.
clearance : about 5mm, sorry can't remember in detail...

yes in Austria , normally Type A are allowed. but also kit tires are allowed, and all kits have different tires, thats why all tamiya radials are allowed too :) (standard , Ms and S Grips)
this is made to increase the number of racers in this class ...
and personally i think this is a step in the right direction...