Use a hair dryer to warm up the decals. It will warm up the adhesive and make it stick better

I've turned the EPA down and the brake force setting on the ESC. There is one corner on our track I'd like brakes for but otherwise generally yes no brakes :)

The rear wheel weights and lower damper stay have no part number listed in the manual. It's just a BC13, BB28 and BB29. Sorry!

I was afraid of that.. dang it Tamiya

I will try the hairdryer, thanks! Another guy at my club with the same body has the same issue with the decals. Only Tamiya body I have seen that issue with....

I am thinking about giving a chance to a M06, comming from a M05, what I will ned, I am counting A, B, , D and E Parts, the bumper. I have an almost full options M05 that I will strip to try the M06.

Do I need a different steering rack? Anything that I'm not counting??

Cheers

A lot of the parts are the same,chassis and shock towers are different. The steering is the same as M05. My M06R came with longer rear shock shafts for the rear.

Hi all, I’m a little late to the M-06 party so this is my experience so far.

I bought the basic M-06 (RX7 Savanna) kit which I built pretty much stock other than full bearings and an old but good Tamiya Sport Tuned motor. Kit TEU-104BK speedo. It’s on the 20t pinion and I assembled the diff with a good dollop of Associated black grease on the bevels. Steering is by a speedy metal geared digital servo and the whole lot was powered by a 4200mah 30c roundcase lipo.

I shimmed out the axles to lose most of the slop which I’ve done with all my M-cars (I think I have OCD!) and ditched the kit 60D tyres in favour of ABC slicks up front (no idea what compound though) with hard moulded Sweep inserts, and Pit Shimizu Mediums on the rear with doubled up standard Pit Shimizu foam inserts (it was all I had at the time). I put additive on the tyres too – we run on carpet.

First run of the night – oh Jes*s H, awesome traction out of the corners, chronic push (understeer for us UK’ers) under power but fantastic off power agility around the tighter corners. None of the twitchiness or tail coming round under braking I was warned about and which had put me off the 06 for at least a year. However, it felt pretty borderline round the bends like it was about to step out but never actually did and the friction “dampers” were 100% useless as the front and back was bouncing all over the place.

Second run I replaced the front shocks for a pair of M-chassis 54000 dampers off my trusty M05. No idea what oil or springs on them but I figured anything would be better than the kit items (even none at all). Went slightly better but still felt weird going into the corners and under power the loaded up outside front wheel was shaking like I have never seen and the car was refusing to hold a line under a constant throttle as if the steering was unwinding itself.

Third run and the M05 had donated it’s high torque servo saver and alloy servo arm to the cause, the kit item went in the spares box hopefully never to be seen again. Much better steering now but the back end was still suffering from feeling bouncy.

Fourth run, now with the 54000 dampers off the back of the – by now pretty bare – M05 now sitting in the rear of the 06, upper mount to the outer hole and lower using the fitting in the arm rather than a Pro ball pin hingepin. This was absolutely awesome: rock solid at the back, could be thrown into corners no problem and again amazing traction pulling out 3 or 4 lengths on the FWDs out of the tighter corners.

The next week I absolutely ruined it by breaking the cardinal rule “change only one thing at a time”. In need of more straightline speed to maximise the traction advantage I fitted a brushed 20t motor with a hotter speedo, changed the front tyres to Pit Shimi mediums with green Sweep hard inserts and ran a 90c saddle lipo with 20g of weight at the front of the battery bar. My sweet little car instantly turned into a snappy tail happy pig with way too much steering and a back end that wanted to overtake the front if I dared lift or deviate from a straight line. The fast sweeper at the end of the straight I had previously taken almost flat became a pirouette of chaos every single lap. The guys at the club don’t think the motor is too much (we run 15t brushed in our M03s and M05s) so I have to start backing out of my “upgrades” to find the sweet spot again.

When I went over the car at the end of the night I noticed that the skid plate under the motor is coated in rubber off the track so it’s clearly bottoming out a lot. I have only 3mm or so clearance and I think I may have built the shocks for the 05 with too many internal limiters for the 06. My theory is that the extra power of the motor is overcoming the springs and on the fast corners the rear of the chassis is just sledging and preventing the tyres from getting loaded up properly to generate the grip they are capable of.

I confess I did chicken out and ran the last round with my trusty 03 which felt like slipping on a pair of favourite sneakers (trainers in the UK) but I did miss that traction a lot. Roll on the next club night, more tweaking beckons.

Any tips on springs/oils/tyres gratefully received. Also debating whether to get a set of 42102 dampers to lift the ass off the floor a little, or just get an 06R kit for the nice spares it'd give me.

Steering is identical. The M05 racing steering is compatible as well, even though the hopups don't list it. The rear shock attaches to the outer hinge pin on suspension. You would have to pick one of those up.

I believe your main issue was the rear bottoming out. The M06 uses standard touring pistons in the rear with no o-rings. So I'd suggest you rebuild your rear shocks with the longer pistons

After that if you are still swapping ends, shift the battery rear wards. This car needs weight at the back to ensure traction. This is why on the M06R Tamiya created the clamp on axle weights.

As far as oil and springs, I run on asphalt so I don't know if my set up would help.

Tyres: I run Shimizu racing as well, however the racing series. They're rated, 40, 36 etc and are slightly smaller in diameter. However traction is really good. At the moment I have 4 @ 36 and 2 @ Sp (SP is their softest compound strictly for rear) I also have on order 33 and 30.

I like the Shimizu Racing because you can use the Tamiya rims. I run the Alfa body and the using 5 spoke rims like sweeps takes away from the scale / period look of the body.

Front kingpin shimming.
 

Want to pick up some shims today at the local machine shop but forgot to bring the front kingpin screws with me. Do I need M5 internal diameter same as the axles?

Correct, for suspension it's m3 shims, axles M5

Brushless Install
 

I have a thunder power 21 turn brushless. How do you get it to fit in the m06r. The tabs touch the rear case and stop it from seating. I can get it to seat with the tabs pointing down and forward but they are touching the plastic case. Just seems weird?

Also can't seem to get even neutral camber in the front end, tie rods seem too long?

Can anyone shed some light on this?

Hi,
don´t know the thunder Power motors, but if you don´t want to cut the plastic parts, maybe you can install a cooling / distance plate to get it seating fully down? Otherwise get a speed passion 21,5t.;)

From your positive camber you probably missed a step in the manual where the plastic ball pins have to be cut down some mm´s.

Br,
Matthias

Thanks I did miss the cutting of the ends. I just bent the tabs up on the motor and it's all good.

Hi guys, found a nice website with info and videos of the M06, though not updated in a while.

http://machine-rc.dreamlog.jp/archives/cat_129062.html

I love his slow mo video of the M06 with various sway bars installed.

+ YouTube Video

Not sure if posted in the past, but reposting.

:)