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camber links
Originally Posted by pcar951
(Post 8431788)
Short camber links in the rear are a must, IMO. Really locks in the rear of the car (on carpet at least).
After DHI Cup ill post my current setup to AE Site. My car has been real good recently on carpet. I got plenty of steering and grip without loosing cornerspeed. hopefully I can TQ for Team AE again. And ofcourse win with better luck :blush: |
The reason that 3rd mounting hole is there is if you use different spurs that dont have openings to get the screw behind it. I doesnt help with gear ratios
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo
(Post 8434521)
Thanks everyone. Makes 6.44 the lowest possible FDR with the stock gear in 48P. Not very Sportsman/stock friendly for the high 3s to the 5s. Hopefully AE will be releasing the purpose cut TC6 spurs soon. Until then, I'm off to order some Xenon gears. Anyone have any other ideas? 28T/87T => 6.21 fdr ;) use some dremel and you can put 29T ;) http://abram.eu.org/gear_tc6.php Anyway, I don't have another spurs so I made some bigger holes. Also use screw M3 with 2.5hex and ball-hex screw driver, it really helps ;) Regards! m |
Originally Posted by jhock
(Post 8435303)
The reason that 3rd mounting hole is there is if you use different spurs that dont have openings to get the screw behind it. I doesnt help with gear ratios
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Does anyone know when the TC6 will be instock for hobby shops? I really want one but it really sucks being told mid jan then moved to early jan:nod: then moved to mid Feb:cry:
Anyone got a real idea of when they will be in? Thanks Jason |
qtn for the pros
I just attached all of the camber links to the chassis and everything is bound up so tight it can hardly move.
For the pros out there how do you free this thing up? :cry::cry::cry: |
Originally Posted by TJames987
(Post 8436447)
I just attached all of the camber links to the chassis and everything is bound up so tight it can hardly move.
For the pros out there how do you free this thing up? :cry::cry::cry: Also, if you're not running the stock #7 camber link positions or the long steering link position, you'll need either some shorter camber rods (1.25" or 1.3" like on the TC5) or you need to trim the stock camber rods by 3 or 4mm on each side. |
I squeezed and squeezed and rotated and squeezed some more from every direction. I eventually just took them all off and put on some RPM ball ends. :smile:
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Originally Posted by TJames987
(Post 8436447)
I just attached all of the camber links to the chassis and everything is bound up so tight it can hardly move.
For the pros out there how do you free this thing up? :cry::cry::cry: Popping them on and off will help free them up but if that's not enough then chuck them up in a dremel and polish them with 1000 grit paper ..... butter. |
Finally
4 Attachment(s)
I have finally finished my TC6. Nothing left to do but get rid of the 200mm sensor wire and get a 50mm from TQ. Then race!
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Originally Posted by Handbrake
(Post 8437275)
I have finally finished my TC6. Nothing left to do but get rid of the 200mm sensor wire and get a 50mm from TQ. Then race!
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Originally Posted by Handbrake
(Post 8437275)
I have finally finished my TC6. Nothing left to do but get rid of the 200mm sensor wire and get a 50mm from TQ. Then race!
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Gonna place my order tomorrow so the car is ready for me once asphalt season starts.
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Speedie
Thanks for the PM Ant3. I will put a small amount of heatshrink on the centre post,just at the very top where it is at its widest. I know that they disapate the heat so i won't do the whole thing, just the first 4mm. They just unplug, so it will be easy to get at.
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you better hurry Clint, falln behind the curve....
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