If you roll the belt off of the front pulley, you will only need to remove the 2 screws on the idler shaft. It's very easy and quick. It's also a good idea to change those 2 screws to cap head rather than button head screws as they are less prone to stripping. They are M2.5 x 8mm.

does anybody race at trains&lanes if so what is the gearing for vta and a good starter esc and motor for vta

Just finished a used tc6 build and Im getting some dogwalking out of the back end. Anyone shed some light on how to get that out? Car is square, wheel base is equal.

Are you using the plastic shims used to set the rear toe/trackwidth? If so get rid of them and get a couple packs of the aluminum Associated 12R5 front ride height shims and use those. Those plastic clips distort under pressure and it is really tough to get an equal setting left to right. Second double check your chassis plate is flat. My TC6 would tweak fairly easily. I'd take off the wheels and put the car on a flat surface and while applying downward pressure to the front and rear bulkheads I'd retension the top deck. This usually worked to take out the chassis twist. Check for tweak and you should be close if not where you want to be. Good luck.

What do you mean by "dog walk"?
It's true that the plastic spacers are junk but you should also get the TC6.1 arm mounts which have the 2mm offset mounts. Since you will likely use 2mm in both front mounting points as well as the far rear for toe in, just use the offset pieces to eliminate the shims all together.
What surface are you running on?

By dog walk, its like an old crappy pick up truck. the rear wheels dont follow in the track of the fronts, they are slightly right of the front track, giving a diagnal look. We run indoor carpet, low/med grip. Thanks

I see... Are both rear wheels offset to the right? Quite often the front and rear track width are a little different depending on the setup. The car will wander side to side a little at slow speeds due to the rear toe but is unnoticeable at speed.

I got lucky enough that I have been handed down a floating servo mount. Can anyone post the screw sizes needed to complete the install? I have some pics from here on the install, so should be good. Also, anything special that needs to be done for the servo turnbuckle mounting? Appreciate your input. Thanks.

HA! I found the answer aways back here on the screws. Now if I could get any info on this servo saver replacement, I will be golden. :D

Check for tweak and make sure shocjs are built properly are you running out in the fluff when this happens make sure every thing is equal on thr car

Can anyone give me a good starting setup for 25.5 vta. My friend just bought a tc6 and this is his first time racing one. Thanks for the help.

Is this the R-Factor RC servo mount and saver set? If so you will need 1 ball cup from the B4 or T4 links to make the turnbuckle the right length and a ball stud with the threads cut short enough to be flush to the top of the servo saver. I can send you some pics if need be.

By the way guys, I have 25 more mounts nearly ready for order. Just need to anodize the blocks and package them up.:D:D

It is one of yours. I have the AE ball stud cup and going to use it to lengthen the existing turnbuckle. I am also using the existing ball cup that was on the servo savor and attached it to the bell crank. I will test tomorrow for clearance and length. I will appreciate the pics of the servo saver.

I'll try to take some new pics today and get them posted up.

So this is what my final looks like. Appreciate any comments before I put it on the track.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...rvo-mount.html

On a side note, my Only concern is that the belt seems to rub against the mount. Any ideas on a fix/correction?


http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...rvo-mount.html