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Originally Posted by syndr0me
(Post 12545312)
Wot is this?!
http://31.media.tumblr.com/7035ea7c2...068bo2_500.jpg http://www.cambergain.com/post/61222...6-1-with-a-two |
my WORLD's CAR is now for sale with tons of spares
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ons-stuff.html |
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TC6 Shock Questions
Hey guys, I have some hopefully not stupid questions that I hope you guys can answer or provide advice. What shock oil/spring weights should I get for asphalt and carpet? Same question for tire compounds? Additionally, I have a slight concern over what appears to take unequal amounts of pressure to press the shocks. The right side of my TC6's shocks seem to move up and down easier than the left side. Is this an indication that it's time to rebuild the shocks, just refill with oil, or just normal? Also, do you recommend any particular shock spring set for carpet/asphalt?
Thanks for helping a newb. |
do the shocks work the same if they are not on the car ?
if so, then sounds like some part of your car is binding somewhere, otherwise yes, the shocks need to be reblead ed |
I will take them off and will respond after I get to check. It will likely be the weekend before I can get to it though. I don't believe anything is binding due to a bad build as the car looks cleanly built. However, it is odd the left side takes a little less pressure on both the front and rear shocks. At least it feels that way by hand. My first thought was the springs might be no longer matched.
Thanks for the response and suggestion. I'll PM you once I try that if you don't mind.
Originally Posted by Edwin Pibal
(Post 12595391)
do the shocks work the same if they are not on the car ?
if so, then sounds like some part of your car is binding somewhere, otherwise yes, the shocks need to be reblead ed |
no problem
ed |
You could quickly swap the shocks left to right and recheck the "feel" if they still feel stiffer on one side its probably binding or could be a weight difference. Are you checking with the car ready to run? Common binding spots would be the arm holders, rod ends or sway bars not moving freely. Just disconnect everything and check each part for free movement as you re-attach things.
For tires, I like a 32-36 range for asphalt and 28-32 for carpet. It all kinda depends on what conditions are for each being grip and temperature but those compounds are generally what works for me. For Springs I tend to use harder springs and oil for carpet and softer for asphalt. I like the AE silvers though for both but will adjust from there usually. |
I've only ran 32-36 on asphalt, works well, the car seems like it. I have ran 28 but the tyres just over heated. This is on low-traction asphalt as well. I typically run blues, silver, gold for springs.
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Hi all, new member here
I have returned to 1/10tc racing following a 5 year gap, where i have been racing full size classic cars. I currently have a TC6.1 WC that i have been testing with over the last few months prior to doing the BRCA National TC series next year, later i will post a link for the set up i have settled on for most conditions (asphalt low to mod grip conditions). I have gradually done some mods to the car that seem to have improved my times to a competitive level, - Ti Screw kit (lighter) - Acer Bearings (lighter and lower friction) - Modified upper TC6.1 WC deck for more flex - Floating servo mount - Zeppin light weight front spool - Light weight gear hub (Carbon) - Tamiya Aeration dampers with HPI springs - Serpent Front Bumper Electrics wise i am running - LRP X20 5.0 - LRP Flow Works esc - Sanwa Servo - Formula X 100c Lipos - KoPropo Esprit III Universe Transmitter with 2.4 and short aerial mod Hope people find the set up useful, any questions please ask Kind regards Tom |
Servo Saver
Originally Posted by YoDog
(Post 11896480)
Thanks Brian... I should also point out that there is plenty of wiggle room to get the servo in just the right spot within the mount. The servo saver is something I forgot to mention since I wasn't using one myself. Now you have forced my hand on something new I have been working on. Here are some pics if the V2 mount (yet to be anodized).
Notice the carbon part hangs over the block. The new plate incorporates a battery stay built in which is high in the chassis, keeping the battery from touching both the belt and the steering assembly. I would suggest moving the stock battery stay to the rear-most mounting location so that you will have even support. These will be available in 20.5mm and 21mm heights to accommodate wider servos. Ok, now for something I have been working on to solve the "disabled servo saver" situation when linking directly to the Ackerman location. I still need to figure out how to make these in a high enough volume to justify a reasonable price. This will replace the stock servo saver cam and moves the ball stud 90 degrees as to be in line with the new servo orientation. |
I'm slightly curious, why hasn't AE (or even a third party) made a velcro battery strap?
http://puu.sh/4IR96.jpg I'm using the one from the Top Photon, which is doing the job. But I'd like a blue one to match the car :) |
Does anyone have advise on added weight for a tc6 to run vta. I use four small scales to check weight on all for tires, but can't seem to get the corner weights even. They seem to be even on opposite corners like r/f and l/r but not on both front and rear. I checked for binding and have not found anything?
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Originally Posted by Scooter79rs
(Post 12607182)
I'm slightly curious, why hasn't AE (or even a third party) made a velcro battery strap?
http://puu.sh/4IR96.jpg I'm using the one from the Top Photon, which is doing the job. But I'd like a blue one to match the car :) http://www.puretechproducts.com/ptprod_straps.htm |
Originally Posted by BillPear
(Post 12608615)
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