The bonding really helps to prevent splintering and catching the carpet which is bad for both the car and carpet. It just a good preventative action. It's also nice to have the edges nice and smooth as a fine detail.

Yeah. I was reading up on how to do it. I'm going to do it to my new chassis. Looks pretty easy.

I love this car more and more every time I race it! I've really got it dialed in now. I won both heats and the main in 17.5 tonight. Some kid was pretty butt hurt about it, but it's not my fault he hits every rail on the track. This car is pretty easy to drive smooth once it's set up right. I'd like to get another one and set it up for the 13.5 class, but I'm moving in July to Oklahoma City. Nobody races touring cars down there. :cry: I enjoy this as much as I do off road racing.

Can somebody please tell me where the arm mount shims are installed for increasing toe in since i do not know and the manual doesnt tell you where to install them,

Appreciate your help

Put the shim(s) between the rear armmounts and the bulkheads at the rear axle.

Yes unfortunately it seems nobody wants to run touring car in Okc. I'm using mine to run nastruck. The majority of nastruck is tc5 and tc6. I would be up for running touring car if we could get a class together and had a place to race them.

Thanks for the answer much appreciated

+1 on the shims, alot of guys use aluminum bulkhead shims (#ASC4617) in place of the plastics, but either works great.

Finally got the 6.1WC hooked up and competitive at my local track and am extremly pleased with its superb handling and predictability! Trying a MazdaSpeed6 lightweight body and Reflex Racing DCJ's, at the upcomming Sweep Challenge race. Can't wait to install DCJ's to smooth out the car in corners and omit the minor binding thru on throttle sweepers. Awesome car AE!

Offroad dont got chit on onroad. :lol: after doing off-road and this year my first year onroad im loving it more. Its more fun, dont have to overpowered everything and you go home with a clean car rather than muddy. And tires and bodies last an eternity compared to sct. :D

Hey do that motor you run from hk have a big rotor or small? I wanna get a 21.5 but not sure if they got the small rotors or high torque ones

Owned by double post

Yeah. I used to run offroad stadium trucks. I was always buying tires. I bought about five sets of tires for my touring car thinking I'd be burning them up. Halfway through the season and my first set is still on the car and looks great!

As for the motor, I'm not sure what you're talking about. It's a standard 540 size motor. It's exactly like a Reedy Sonic type motor. Regardless, I'm very impressed with it. Especially for the price! I just ordered another 17.5T Trackstar for a TC4 I'm buying, and I also ordered two 13.5T Trackstars for a couple of short course trucks I'm putting together. Finally, I ordered a 2350kv 1/8 scale Trackstar for a truggy E-conversion. Ha!

The rotor where you bolt your pinion is either 12.3 mm, 12.5, 13.0mm inside the can. Im still running my xpatters from this past summer and the ground was usually 90-130 degrees. :D

You mean DCJ's?

If so, yes, the following Spec-R DCJ's fit the TC6.1:
--- Spec-R PN SPR001-BD2 DCJ CV Universal Swing Shaft Version 2 (for Yokomo BD5)
--- Spec-R PN SPR-R1A122 R1 2 x 10 Pin
--- Spec-R PN SPR-R1A110 R1 Aluminum Wheel Hex
--- 4mm shims, such as 3Racing PN 3RAC-SW04 Stainless Steel 4mm Shim Spacer 0.1/0.2/0.3mm Thickness

These parts fit the TC6.1, not the TC6. The hex's, cross pins and shims are necessary because the Spec-R DCJ's use 2mm diameter cross pins, where the Team Associated cross pins are 1/16 inch diameter.

One of the nice things about the Spec-R DCJ's is they fit through the caster blocks only the most minor beveling (e.g. with an exacto knife) of the caster block inside edge. There's no need for any grinding of the caster blocks.

I've been running these for about a year now (got mine from TQ RC) with no reliability or cross-pin retention problems at all. They are very smooth, which I like but I can't say I've observed a performance benefit that's for-sure attributable to the DCJ's. For maintenance, all I do is clean the DCJ's with solvent every three or four races (more often if running outdoors) and apply oil. Some racers will prefer to use grease, instead of oil. I use oil because it seems to work about as well as grease but cleans up a little easier.

PS. I don't work for Spec-R, nor am I sponsored by anybody. These are only my observations from using the product.

keep in mind that the TC6 uses 10x6x3 wheel bearings and the TC6.1 uses 10x5x4.
The Spec-R shafts for the BD5 are intended for 10x5x4, meaning they may work on the TC6.1 if the fitting works out, but not the TC6, unless you run the 6.1 hubs, caster blocks, bearings, crush tubes and hub shims.

Pete, which setup did you settle on Friday night?

You are correct. The Spec-R BD5 DCJ's will not fit the TC6 for this reason. I corrected my post above.