Thanks Jason, I hope I can make it, but like I said, My Son has football so it is probably kinda slim I make it there on time. But i want to stop by at least.

Uhhhh, I got them at my LHS, but here is a link, they are Dynamite (I dont know if they are any good, he gave them to me for like $10 USD so I got them for just messin around in the driveway with my car).

Link> http://www.rcplanet.com/Dynamite_Whe..._p/dyn7966.htm

Can't remember writting "You cool dude" :p:p

OUCH...received my shipment today of everything to begin building and go Onroad racing this weekend with TC6.....but they forgot to ship the kit, lol! Now I can prep/paint the body, etc. Won't receive car till next week, but a good friend is fixing me up with a great loaner platform to participate in this weekends race :)

Just wanted to add my experience on the defective kits..I built my TC6 a few weeks ago and ran into binding issues with 2 of the CVDs (pins) and 2 of the screws were too short, almost like they were cut. I called Associated customer service, told them the problem, had the parts in my mailbox next day. All new CVDs and full bag of screws. He didn't ask for the receipt and it was an easy process. Now I do believe there are some QC issues at Associated, I've built other kits from them and every now and then run into a missing screw or something, but nothing to make me stop buying from them.

I have bought AE kits for years and have had F all problems with them. They are always great value for money. The instructions and support are in english which to me is very important,having built some kits with only japanese text and just pictures to go by.

I am wondering if you guys can help.

Just working out on everything possibly needed to make the switch to the TC6, am I am lead to believe there is a mod on the diffs that you do in turms of the screw, using one from one of there offroad cars. Can anyone tell me if this is correct and if possible what parts number(s) are needed for this.


Regards

James

I believe it is the t-nut from the b4 t4 line of buggies. The stock part works fine as long as you make sure the lock nut is completely bottomed out in the t-nut before you attempt to assemble. If not you will not catch enough of the thread and have a tough time. Also make sure to compress the diff spring and don't overtighten. Once you feel the spring coil bind it is time to stop and back it off. These diffs are really not as hard to build as some make them out to be.

The trick is to have a small socket that fits the stock t nut i just tap it with a small hammer and it inserts the nut all the way down i only stripped one on my tc5 before i used a socket and have used them in all of my diffs with no issues.

I didn't have a problem with the stock one, but i notice that could be a weak spot. Just buy part #6575, direct fit.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Locking-T-Nut

or

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tial-Screw-Kit



It is the locking T-nut that you need. And I strongly recommend it. Especially with the Slipper Spool. As I was building my Spool with the kit nut/retainer, as I was tightening it the nut stripped out the inside of the retainer and spun itself off the screw... and it fired the damn thrust spring out of the outdrive like a cannon. It took me an hour to find it, but Im glad it didn't put anyone's eye out.

Pick up a couple of the T-nuts as backups and use them for all the Spools/ball diffs you build.

please help lol
 

hi guys can someone help me how do i get rear toe its my first time adjusting rear toe as im going by the set up sheet sorry for asking a stupid question

Waiting patiently for the gear diff car. :cool:

go and see
http://www.redrc.net/2011/09/spec-r-...rs/#more-47541

spec r's are shit my friend

You get it by shimming the inner hinge pin blocks. There are instructions and shim charts in the assembly manual.