Thanks Sir! See you Sunday :)

no wing height rule in usgt....break out your Chaparral wings

So you used the alum chassis as a heatsink? WTH 🙂

Hey all, im planning to enter USGT with an HB Pro 5. I'm looking at the Exotek P1-Z body and would like to know if anyone has experience with this or the predecessor, P1, clearing normal height shock towers? Is MikeR's body a good representation of this working? His front shock towers look relatively low. I ask because I can't mount newer TC bodies on the car due to this.

You will probably have the hood sitting right on the tower. To help with that there are 2 trims lines for the body. You might trim the body so that it sits higher up- in fact trim conservatively and leave extra lower body uncut in case you need it even higher. The 2nd thing is grind down the shock tower flat at the top, down to the last outter hole (no longer can use the outter shock hole). This step you may not even need to do though until you've test fit the body.

Has anyone ever used the Mon-Tech Trofeo body for this class? There is not much info, feedback, or images of them out there really, and I'm about 99% sure I'm going to order one for my next body (I like to be different and run a body that no one else has locally, and am a huge Lambo fan). I've ran the Bitty Agata body before, and although it is one of the best looking bodies (in my opinion) it lacks in handling characteristics for sure. Just looking for some feedback before pulling the trigger.

Bodies are like Pokemon cards..... I gotta try em all!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...5e7c6a3d02.jpg

It looks cool.. just do it..

Hi all, more of a general on-road elec. question, but I'll ask here since it's going in a USGT car to start. Any advantage of running a HW G2 over the Pro Stock esc in a 21.5 or 17.5 blinky class? I recently picked up a T4'21 w/the intention of having it on-hand for USGT, VTA, or 17.5/21.5 TC. On-road seems to be a bit spotty in these parts, so I am trying to keep it as flexible as possible.

Trying to discern if there are any features of the G2 that I might find useful in the future, but I'm a bit behind on the latest esc tech, as I have been out of the game for awhile. I am not the fastest, but I am consistent enough that small advantages are typically noticed. Any insights are appreciated.

EDIT: Follow-up question while I have people's attention, any consensus on what mAh seems to work well for this class?

The main reason I personally use the G2, is the reverse polarity protection.

Spending a few bucks to know I can’t pop my speeder being a dummy, was worth the few bucks for me.

I’m sure there are other benefits, but that’s the biggest reason I spent the extra money.

Nothing but G2's with the non-polarity caps for my hard earned moola - love that they come in different bling trim so I can tell them apart and keep track of which class I'm using it for. I'm terrified all the time that I'm going to smoke my Tekin or R1 (or that a friend or family member will - this has happened). Anyway - HobbyWing gets my money by default now.

Thanks for the replies, all. Much appreciated. Went w/the Pro Stock for now, as I won't be racing any non-blinky classes in the near future. I've been going a little crazy on the rc budget lately, and I think I need to finally pull back a little bit (for now). Knock on wood, but I've yet to plug one in backwards in 20+ years of doing this.

NOW you've jinxed yourself!

Better to get it outta the way then. I dunno. I charge the batts in the cars, and the wires are too short to hook up backwards, so I think I'll be alright.

Some batteries have terminals on each side, so tape off the side you are not using. That's another way you can hook it up backwards even if you have one lead too short to reach the other terminal (I also do this). I've only hooked up backwards one time and it was when I put one of my batteries in my son's car and my battery had the neg and pos terminals switched compared to his battery.