TSR! Also, very happy with my first Trinity motor.

Yes there is a lot of very fast motors out there, but it depends on how good you are with your chassis setup and gearing.

I have tried TSR and R1 and Monster Max and by far a Certified Monster Max 21.5 was faster and less fade out of all 3.

I am building a usgt car and I want to get the 2007 Tamiya raybrig nsx body from Japan. Is this body still competitive with the usgt specific bodies like the bitty design venom?

Reason why I asked was because I was running my friends usgt t4 and he had 2 body's. One was a Ferrari knock off and one is a Honda hsv knock off. The hsv body was barely drivable and the Ferrari body was dialed. Hard to believe that it was the same car. Both of these bodies are not legal but the race director let it slide.

Then weird thing is that the hsv knock off has no rear grip at all even though it has a long nose which is counter intuitive. Yeah I mean, you run mini z Billy and you can feel a difference with different bodies. But this was even crazier of a difference. It's like a completely different car. But yeah this is really high traction track where you have to fight traction rolling.
really want to run a nsx body is on switch things up from a sea of Ford GT and venom and p zeros, but only if it is competitive.

CG, weight distribution, and overall weight are likely going to affect handling of a USGT or VTA car more than aero, particularly on tighter tracks. Our local scale spec fast guy runs Tamiya bodies half the time, I haven't noticed much, if any, difference in his lap times, but he says he feels the higher CG. There are a few other guys running HPI and Tamiya bodies, enjoy the way they look, and are still in the mix. I've been running Protoform bodies for the last few years and like the way they feel, but they're just not scale enough for my taste. I'm currently working on fitting the Tamiya Jagermeister Alfa 156 on my TC7, hoping I'm able to make it work. Full scale touring cars are what drew me to the class in the late 90's, miss seeing scale bodies ripping around the track. If I end up stuck mid pack in qualifying, I guess I could throw a Protoform body back on for the main to make up some ground? ;) As others have said, run whatever makes you happy.

Tat - I discovered the mystery why the HSV body was barely drivable. Both are cheap Ebay pre-painted bodies. The reason why HSV body was barely drivable was because the wing was mounted too low therefore not generating enough rear traction. I increased the wing height by using protoform's plastic wing mount and it was like a different car. Now, it handles even better than the Ferrari body because of the extra downforce.

As others have confirmed, body and wing selection DOES make a huge impact on how the car handles.

Isn't the maximum wing height 10mm? Are still within the limit? This give me hope of getting a nsx body and running it, Also Billy, the reason why Mini Z body makes a difference because not does the body matter, it also changes wheel base, and wheel offsets, so it really is like driving a different car.

s14_tat;15343316Isn't the maximum wing height 10mm? Are still within the limit? This give me hope of getting a nsx body and running it, Also Billy, the reason why Mini Z body makes a difference because not does the body matter, it also changes wheel base, and wheel offsets, so it really is like driving a different car.

Not to get too far oof topic, I’ve yet to figure out the changing wheelbase thing.

I’m undecided about the actual effects of the wings. If I put a VTA body on my USGT car, with no wing, there should be more of a difference. Yet I’ve not seen it. Same using VTA car with a USGT body.

The small wing cord allowed on the USGT bodies really doesn't make that much down force.
The biggest difference I can feel and track with laptimes is the CG height caused by high heavy bodies.
For example A Tamiya Golf 24r is heavy and really moves the CG up compared to my new favorite USGT body the Bitty Venom.