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Originally Posted by Nexus
(Post 10559716)
Hmm do I need to wear the GoPro mounted helmet for the USGT Nats race?
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Body of choice?
350 z looks cool, I assume it works well. |
Originally Posted by Josh Hohnstein
(Post 10559797)
Body of choice?
350 z looks cool, I assume it works well. Yes it does...maybe you can take down the best in USGT....RJ...RICH or Battman!!! |
Hi, The Porsche GT3-RS 200mm body by HPI is also a very good body
for USGT. My Kyosho TF-5S handles very well. Photos Attached. Norman2 |
The wheelbase of my tc6.1 doesn't seem to be anywhere close to the HPI body wheel wheel cutouts. How are you guys handling that? They don't seem to work well making my own cutout as the lexan that is left is a different texture.
Does anyone make bodies that might work better besides HPi and Tamiya? |
Originally Posted by or8ital
(Post 10560152)
The wheelbase of my tc6.1 doesn't seem to be anywhere close to the HPI body wheel wheel cutouts. How are you guys handling that? They don't seem to work well making my own cutout as the lexan that is left is a different texture.
Does anyone make bodies that might work better besides HPi and Tamiya? |
Hi, I agree with KevinK, Something has to be mounted wrong as the
Associated TC6.1 has a wheelbase of 255mm (10") and all HPI bodies that I have used have that exact wheelbase. Very strange. Regards Norman |
I'm using the stock wheelbase and wanna match my setup rather than the body. It fits in the wheelwells but the front tire is at the front edge and the back wheel at the very back edge (close enough that it's gonna cause body tuck issues). Certainly not centered on each opening.
My wheelbase is 10.25 inches. It is 1mm to the edge from center front and back which is the kit setting. So the wheelbase on the TC6.1 must be 4mm longer than 10 inches. Though I see the specs list it has 10.04. |
this body is 1 or 2mm too far forward but despite that you can see how far to the back edge the rear wheel is.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...l/828cb870.jpg |
Originally Posted by or8ital
(Post 10560461)
this body is 1 or 2mm too far forward but despite that you can see how far to the back edge the rear wheel is.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...l/828cb870.jpg |
Mark your wheel wells AFTER you get the body post holes set. That way you're adjusting the wheel wells to the chassis wheelbase set up, not the other way around. 2mm of wheel base change to your car to get the "look" could very well dork your suspension bias.
Function over form! Run it like it is, and do differently next time. At speed on the track, no one will see it or even care. |
I have a painted body that is drying where the body is mounted further back. Still seems like it is gonna look a little weird with a huge gap in front of the rear tire. I even, as you said, tried moving the rear wheels forward by a mm (I needed a little more rear traction anyway) but it made little difference. I'll post a picture of the new body when it's dry and cutout tomorrow.
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo
(Post 10560601)
Mark your wheel wells AFTER you get the body post holes set. That way you're adjusting the wheel wells to the chassis wheelbase set up, not the other way around. 2mm of wheel base change to your car to get the "look" could very well dork your suspension bias.
Function over form! |
Originally Posted by Josh Hohnstein
(Post 10559797)
Body of choice?
350 z looks cool, I assume it works well. So we have the former USGT Nationals winners, a US Indoor Championship TQ and winner, multiple TCS race winners, and probably others I'm missing. Awesome for USGT. |
Originally Posted by or8ital
(Post 10560622)
As I said in the original post that doesn't work with the HPI bodies as they use a different texture lexan around the wheels. If you don't cut it all out then it looks really weird. That's why I wondered what other bodies beside hpi and tamiya were out there.
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