Lol. No feelings hurt here. Lol.

Just so he's not out there alone. I'd say I agree.Once you've decided this is going to be your "Thing", just bite the bullet and buy good equipment as you can afford it. I now have 3 6.2's. The car is hugely better than the 6.1's. Especially if you don't drive real purty and tap walls from time to time.The arm mounts save you a fortune and because they don't bind up, they make you more consistent. The 6.2 lowered my deviation consistently. And I was able to sell my 6.1's while they still had good value. Trying to sell a TC5 is like trying to sell a Vega now.
Yes, I have good equipment. Yes, I do get beat. But it's usually the loose nut behind the steering wheel, not because of stuff. And I can walk away saying I'll work on that. If I'm having a good night, you won't catch me. But it sucks having a good deviation night and not being able to run with the leaders.
And beyond my chassises (Chassi?;) My stuff lasts. It's mostly the same stuff I've been running weekly for years sans the motor and batteries.And batteries are a consumable. it'd be the same had the D3.5's not been outlawed. But it was because I bought good stuff to begin with once I committed to the hobby. My .02 cents

see your's and OttoKrosse's comments are completely different then someone going "money is no option - I want the best that I can get"

I race on a budget and I figure out what I can get for what I'm willing to spend - which is similar to spending XX amount because I don't want to have to buy again :) personally, there is nothing wrong with that - like I said, I have issues with people who think that spending the most money is the way to win races

but that's just my 2 cents :D

I will agree with buying high end electronics as they help immensely and last 10tiems longer than most cheap chinese junk. That being said all the setup stations and high end chargers and high end cars are not necessary. A nice camber gauge and ride height tool and your own 2 eyes will get u a pretty decent setup every time. As far as chassis yeah the X-ray or tc6.2 are nice cars but if you can't drive it worth a crap a clod buster could beat it. Think im wrong? Look at how many tc3s and tc4s are still racing very competitively. several top USGT and VTA cars are old chassis with good drivers.

The funny thing is, since I know Joe, I know his advice doesn't differ much from what Otto and JR are saying. Basically get the best you can afford, work on your lines, slow in, fast out and consistency will come. He just happens to get nice stuff for himself and makes it work (ie. we're all chasing him!).

So when a new Turdigy popped up locally for sale and knowing others on here have been doing well with it I figured I'd give it a shot. And yes, my Mi4s are all "old" now, but I can't justify getting rid of them yet. I didn't spend much on them and I'm still having a blast locally.

OK, that's cool, I was worried that I stepped on toes inadvertently. :)

Old doesn't mean slow as many here can testify to, it's truly a drivers skill level that makes one fast, the equipment just makes it easier.

Since most of us are on a budget I get the idea of spending conservatively. I knew when I got back into RCs that I was in for the long haul so I spent in areas I found to be most beneficial for a rusty driver (good car, electronics, servos, batteries and ESCs.....and good tires). Now the job is to figure out how to make it all work together, thankfully I have some local racers that have been very helpful with tips. :D

Gotta say that this hobby is the most fun I've had outside of running in SCCA Auto Cross, and it's a lot more affordable too.

LOL, I love motorsports. I did Solo II in the mid '90s to early 2000's in the spring/summer in Ohio, then RC carpet oval in the winter. Got out of autox'ing when my son was born. Now he's 10 and RC racing is something we can do together. Will I get back to dodging cones again? Probably. We'll see! I know there are others on here who wheel full-scale cars on the track.



So... HPI S2000 body - anybody run it?

can you actually find one? I thought it was discontinued years ago - I remember one guy run it and did fairly well with it, but this was foam 27t touring back in the pre-TC3 days :)

One of the local guys who got out of on-road has one that he's been debating on painting and selling. So since it's now a "collector's item" would it be blasphemous for me to paint and race it? :eek:

This was never suppose to be about the price, I would rather spend less and have money for other parts (I have a lot of cars). My original question was due to being passed on the straights, gearing up to keep up but end up getting too hot. I just wanted to know which one was best.

The results at our track showed a Fantom Ionv5 21.5 (team edition) with all the bells and whistle is the fastest (on that day)and it ran 155° all day. Nearly a 2 lap win in a 12 minute main. Lap traffic keep that from happening. Lol (Thanks big daddy for keeping that from happening). It wasn't cheap but I was happy with the results. If you ever want to take my car for a spin at the track just ask. I let every one drive it.

Here a link. http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...prod=FAN27848W

I go to simple items what cooling fan are you using also how much timing do you have in the car. In racing using 21.5 motors the fast guys have lots of time find where timing and gearing intersect to create the fast laps. Most drivers are losing speed from mid corner to corner exit and it really shows up down straightaway's. Their cars are making the straight's longer that keeps the motor cooler by not boging the motor on corner exit.

What timing and FDR did you use?

58° @ 3.68 final. 122÷63×1.9. 84 pitch gears.