I disagree, if you're gonna tell folks to run only 1 tire, then you might as well tell them to run only 1 brand of motor too. This is a half donkey rule if you ask me.

I am not disagreeing that the tire doesn't perform well, that part of the equation is moot. Folks should have choices so they can select appropriate wheels for their taste to get the scale look they might be looking for if they so choose. This is a slippery slope...

How many places are these Ride tires going to be available? Will my LHS be able to order them?

U all keep up the bitxhing about stupid wheel looks and I'm sure some company will come to our aid and sell a full line of wheels that fit 24mm tires properly .
In terms of looks I like gold/silver wheels with split or mesh design looks like a wheel I would find on a tuner/race car .
I would never buy cromed wheels for performance purposes or looks even . stupid time consuming to get the plating out of the glueing area. For those that do want a good looking race wheel that's ocd (I might even do this once or twice) .. Chuck a wheel in the tire lathe and use a dremil to cut a 2-3mm section out and reglue /melt rim back together would only take about 20min per wheel and would hold together great using the correct technique. I think I'll do a set in the next few days to test techniques

What happens if Sorex or another manufacturer comes out with an equally performing treaded tire in 26mm? Will the rule change back? My head is already dizzy with all the rule changes as it is.

re-manufacturing 26mm wheels into 24mm wheels with 6mm offset is not practical... I say leave well enough alone.


Also note that 24mm wheels on a 200mm body is very awkward looking, 26mm tires have a larger overall diameter too which add to the scale look.

One I'm going to play with will be 3mm off set

I would think (having not tested) a 6mm offset would have a performance disadvantage to begin with the cars r designed around a 24-28mm wheel that's centered on the hub this way camber and toe angles r static (more so) than having the bulk of the tire set outside the centerline of the hub making a different leverage point .
Can someone with experience (other than Dark side)comment on this

So the Roar approved ESC/Motor and Spec Tire makes you dizzy... :rolleyes:

First off:
What if you were the person in charge of this and YOU had to test ALL motors and esc's to keep things as equal... Also note that YOU are not getting paid to do any of this testing... Now if someone starts using X motor or Y esc that is deemed not legal in USGT you get to deal with the crap storm they create when you tell them it can't be used... So there IS a system in place already by ROAR that does this testing and they are paid for it. (I assume that is where my ROAR membership fees go.) Who in their right mind would not go by these ROAR rules???

Second thing:
So you are mad about having to spend another $20 on a set of tires and that you can't use 26mm rims. (Nobody is stopping you from using 26mm rims with the tires!) You are mad they are not to scale??? Come on man... You are just nit picking stuff now. I have had rims on my real car with lower profile tires then this... Want them to stick out more then use some bigger wheel hexes! You seem to care more about how cool your car looks around the track then how fast it goes. You know what a good class is for this? Drifting!

Just an FYI: I know for a fact there are some tires out there that are no longer made that some people have that are better then anything else out there... I know these tires only see national races because of that fact. I will still lose to the people who have these tires even with them using the spec ones, but I do like knowing they do not have that advantage on me.

All I can say is THANK YOU ROB for what you do and what you have to deal with. This is my favorite class by far and this change is for the better!

Now I need to pack and drive 7 hours go race some USGT and not talk about it anymore...

Can anyone say "pit squiggles" :)

Good luck at the Classic Travis, be safe

Long Live Pit Squiggles!

Snowy.

I'm at the airport now. I must be out my mind. Scared to fly but I'm getting on a plane to go race toy cars.

I love flying...so much different than everyday life.

Have fun at the race!

http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...formation_id=8

Go on speedtech link amd check out gt10. I thought it was pan car but no. I called them its basically usgt with a 17.5, gt body and spoke wheels. Here locally we run "gt3" or usgt with 21.5 motors or black cans from tamiya. This event is at tamiya track this sat but we don't need to worry about having all tamiya equipment since its held by speedtech.

let me put it another way

I wasn't happy with the motor restriction initially, I raised my concerns in private which fell on deaf ears. I never raised it publicly until I saw another mistake being made. Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice shame on me.

I have no confidence in any organization that waffles back and forth... someone who approves a motor one day, then changes their mind the next deems them unreliable. I don't blame Trinity, I blame ROAR.

If you want to squash an "Outlaw" motor, by all means eliminate it, I don't care how you do it, make a list of banned motors, but creating collateral damage by choosing a waffle organization like ROAR is a joke.

Now you're adding even more salt to the wounds by creating even more collateral damage with tire restrictions.

By forcing 24mm wheels down everyone's throat, you'll killing off all of the 200mm bodies which further restricts the fun factor of the class. It is not realistic to get 6mm of additional offset on a hex, there simply isn't enough thread to make it work, I've tried.

Comparing 26mm to drifting is very ignorant. I have not noticed any discernible change in my lap times when I swap between a 200mm body with 6mm offset wheels vs a 190mm body with 0mm offsets. I admit that I'm not a pro level driver by any means, but I feel confident enough to be able to tell a difference having a few years of club level experience under my belt.

What I see happening is a shift to a "Touring Car" style class where every single body, wheel and tire looks identical to the next... bore me to tears

USGT is turning into anything but I was initially promised.

It doesn't directly affect me as our local club doesn't follow the same level of insanity, but it indirectly kills the class when regional/national racers like Tommy who choose to jump ship rather than ruffle any feathers over the rule changes. Then not only am I out of having skilled racers to run against, the class is jeopardized locally.

I am begging you guys... please don't screw up a good thing.

You're thinking of World GT which is typically single cell lipo, 13.5T pan cars. Our GT10 class was a relatively cost controlled class with brushed motors and ESCs that were available through our the LHS that sponsored our races (Hobbytown). Save for the electronics, it was fairly similar to USGT. Enough so that a handful of us decided to give it a shot (since we all love brushless motors).

Bill, no need to get your panties in a bunch. There is no doctrine in our club stating we need to abide by USGT rules 100%, rather it's a guide to get us going. Brame is a reasonable enough RD to still allow any treaded tire and any 21.5T motor. And if you want to revive brushed GT10, there's no one stopping you. I still have some good GT10 electronics (although that's kind of an oxymoron, LOL). And please don't be ridiculous to think anyone is trying to "bully" you racing something you don't want to. Jeebus man.

Any who needs Tommy any how? He can go off an fly a kite! They sell those at Hobbytown, too. :lol: