Great job Ryan! Did you see my email I sent last week?

Im not Ryan, Hiro:blush: I will ask him for you later though:nod:

Cheers,

Antoni

I was wondering if anyone knew when we should expect the following parts. All of the known shops have been out for a while now.

Suspension Arms
46MM Drive Shafts
CVD Rebuild Kits


Any help would be appreciated.

drive shafts
 

any ecs drive shafts that would work in the TCX.

I m using Hudy ECS 52mm. You need to enlarge the steel spool outdrives to 7mm to fit the Hudy ECS end. My case, I just sent it to the local machine workshop and only took them 5 mins to do it. I ve been using it for 3 months now with no major problems at all. The only thing that you need to look after is the ECS's pins. I broke them twice already.

I too am using the HUDY ECS drive shafts for about five months now.

I drilled out the outdrives to fit the HUDY dog bone end. Pulled the HB pins from worn dog bones and pressed them into the HUDY dog bones. You will have to drill the hole a bit larger to allow the HB pins to press in. Having pressed the pins in will mean not having to use axle pin adapters.

You will have to chamfer the HB c-hub opening on the inside. It will allow free movement of the ECS otherwise it will make contact and appear to be a chatter problem. I used a hobby knife.

One more thing to check is bearing binding. I am using XRAY knuckles and while using the HB wheel hex clamps, the hex pin is completely recessed leaving no free play between the HB hex and the bearing so binding would occur when the wheel is mounted. I am having to use Tamiya hexes cause the pin is not completely recessed in the hex and therefore no binding. I am not sure what the outcome would be if using HB knuckles.

Need pics, send me a PM.

I m using mine with HB knuckles with no problem. Jusn need to add shim between the knuckles and the wheel hex to reduce the slop. Additional info, for me, I just dremel the outdrive slot to 3.5mm so that I can use the Xray ECS blades. So far the outdrives do not have any signs of wear.

Or you could convert your belts, diff and spool to a 40t setup and start running a Side Piece racing Mira outdrives like Mike Haynes does - http://www.rctech.net/forum/8915101-post34.html. Mike has posted previously after his Snowbirds win the parts you need to do the 40t conversion- this would just involve buying a TOP Photon spool instead of a 2nd gear diff.

Before making the Mira Outdrives I tries running a machined Hot Bodies spool but I had issues with the steel cups breaking after hard hits.

I'll be running the setup on my new TCX. We also have another person that is converting to the mira and ECS setup.

+1

i have to say this is a very nice option, the Mira outdrives are fantastic.
made in the USA.

for everyone having problems with the HB front bones, this setup will take care of the issues....and will probably make the car just a bit easier to gear correctly. especially in blinky mode (17.5 non-boosted)
i do believe Haynes is using it Mod as well.

Dont forgt the Roche spool that should be available within the next 2 weeks! All you need is spool and tamiya/yokomo/top front steel bones.

BTW those wanting rebild kits, ive noticed tamiya and yokomo parts especially are almost identical:nod: Also, has anyone else noticed the DCJ driveshaft being available again almost everywere! Just wish they were 46mm:(

Cheers,

Antoni

The reason for us using the Mira out drives is the ability to use Xray ecs'. I run them on my top car it is amazing how different the car is with the Ecs'.

help
 

Hello everyone
I explained how I can buy a frame for my smokem tcx??

I have already sent three emails but no response, someone tells me the correct procedure?
thank you very much

+1

Entirely different feel and consistent through the entry to exit of turns. ;)