Re: question?
 

http://www2.gpmd.com/mfglogos/dan.gif

Go here; Tower Hobbies

F1-Fanatic,
I will run on carpet, but I haven't tried it yet and have to do quite a bit to set it up. The person who I got it from had about -3* camber on one side and 0* on the other.
What shout I set the ride-height at?
PS: That scheme, or variations of it, is becoming my team paint scheme:)

On the teflon tape, do you put it on the dampener disc's only or do you put it on the disc's and the dampener plate?

I've seen the tape put on the plate only, none on the discs.

Thanks Avink1, I'm just getting into 12th scale and was just wondering since I'm in the process of puting my 12L3 together. I got some of this tape but it is in strips(1"X3"). Dan's R/C products sells the stuff too but they're cut into disc's(1-1/8" diameter) so I thought they were precut for the disc's. Thanks.

The reason for putting it on the plate is because you can sand the discs with really fine grit sand paper, like 1000 grit, and it will make the pod action super smooth. Then just put stealth diff lube on the discs, you should experiment with different thicknesses of greese, but thats a good starting point.

It sounds like Proudwinner and I are in the same boat. I too, am putting my 12l3 together. Anyone have any tips/hints to get it race ready? Thanks

Hyrdamatic99, I was told to make some plates for the tweak screws because eventually they will wear into the chassis and that they will start to change the tweak while driving, below is a pic of my plates. I made these out of the middle of a battery bar and epoxied them to the chassis with JB Weld. I was also told that the stock foams in the kit(greens)are too soft for a parking lot track with VHT.

proudwinner, the plate you made is too thick, you should make one out of a thin feeler gage like for gapping spark plugs and then find the same thickness washer to put under the rear part of the car or did you just glue it under where the tweek screws are? its kind of hard to tell if thats what you did then that will work. I can't help you with tires for asphault but I think most people run purple fronts and pink rears for asphault, and purple/grey for carpet (I race carpet).

Avink1, yeah those bars are just glued to the chassis to keep the tweak screws from eating into the chassis. Thanks for the info Avink1. Got a minute? What does Tower Hobbies mean when they say "This is a closed cockpit non-open wheel body(Nissan GTP90)."? Does this mean that you shouldn't cut out the rear wheel openings on the body? Is the AE Jaguar GroupC like that? Thanks in advance.

what they are saying by non open wheel is that its not like an indy style car. you should cut out the rear wheel openings, i can't help you with the Jaguar. If you are trying to find a body I would recomend the Parme Speed 8 or the Protoform Nissian P-35.

Thanks Avink1, I've heard alot of the speed 8 body but by the price of Associated bodies I think I'm gonna go with the AE jag group c. I appreciate the help.

proudwinner, just glad I could help you out and I hope you like 1/12 scale, its my favorite class.

LouisB,

I am not sure what ride height would work best for asphalt because I am new to 1/12th scale and only have experience on a very smooth ozite circuit. Was the car set up for oval? I set my camber so that the front tires wear evenly across their contact patch regardless of the measurement. I run road circuits though and not oval so I guess it all depends on what your application is. The reason I asked if you were running on asphalt was because the ride height looked very high for a carpet setup. When I am running at my local track I run 3mm all the way around (mainly because thats what they tech for as a minimum ride height) otherwise I would go a little bit lower.

F1-Fanatic

Don't waste your time with the Associated Jag, if you're set on buying an Associated body, the only ones to consider are the Nissan and the TOJ.

Trips