"LISTEN TO HIM" :lol: -JB

Damper tube question...
 

What are you guys running in you side damper tubes? I have been running 60wt silicone shock oil on my Hyperdrive but it seems to be double steering. It seems like it turns, rolls, looses grip, gets grip again then finishes the turn. It think it may be under damped.

I am running the following:

Rear:
Trinity Pink tires
.68 T-bar w/ two outer screws attaching rear pod and normal tweak screws
30wt oil in AE Micro VCS damper
Green AE spring
Alloy CRC side tubes
Full width suntan lotion for traction compound

Front:
Trinity Purple Tires
.020" springs
AE 12L3 front end 10deg reactive caster
~2deg caster
Red Stuff grease on king pins
Angled upright servo no bump toe at all
Inner 3/4 width Suntan lotion for traction compound

im going to try to make it i have been to busy to race. if not im going to dump all my stuff. :cry:

Adrian,

It sounds like you are way too underdamped. The springs on one side are compressing then pushing back but the damping can't slow it down enough to stop the rebounding from going to far so it's oscilating back and forth. 60wt is not even close to being enough. If you have the trinity light damping fluid (red cap) try that if not, try and get hold of some losi hydra drive fluid, I use heavy but that may be too much in CRC tubes. This stuff is difficult to get hold of though. you can try 10,000 wt silicon and see if that works, there is a few higher and lower wieghts which you can try too.

Chris.

Thanks Chris, Thats what I though.

I've been trying some different tire compunds and have found that they have some relation to the cornering loading and unloading problem you described. My car did exactly as you said yours did with pink tires. When I changed to greens or aquas the car smoothed way out entering turns (and was bolted).
But we are all using heavier dampening than yours. I use about the lightest with 100 wt shock oil in the CRC tubes on my Yokomo. Ashby uses the heaviest, usually something like diff lube.

at our asphalt track:

i had this issue also. purple fronts / pink rears, i was running a black spring, 30wt, .63 t-bar (2 screws). too soft for the amount of traction the pinks had. greys worked with this set-up but they wear way to fast.

to get the car to handle with pink rears i ended up with a green center spring, 40 wt in shock, .70 DP t-bar (all 3 screws), losi hydra drive fluid in tubes. this calmed down the over grab on acceleration. also instead of the pinks causing the rear to be in a grab & break traction status in the turns, the car feels like it's now in a controlled traction drift status. don't know how else to explain it, but it's a pleasure to drive.

Interesting comments about the pink rears. I had been making some changes to my L4 with thick chassis from discs to tubes as it seemed the rear was chattering and possibly lifting the inside rear tire. I've run both setups, damper disc and tubes with similar results.

The car is setup with

19turn
.020 fronts, preloaded for near zero sag
silver rear spring
30wt oil
.070 (measured) associated tplate with oem tweak screw locations
5* front with a shim on each side of the upper arm
Batteries aft.
camber for flat tire wear and zero toe in / toe out
Hand soap on rears, nothing on fronts.
Smooth high grip surface, with VHT.
I've tried both damper discs with teflon shims and 90wt silicone, plus thicker silicones, and also crc damper tubes with thick silicone.

The car runs well, and is definately responsive, it just seems that after the chassis transitions, it may be lifting the inside rear tire and winding up the diff.

I had Tim Potter run it also and he ran the car well, being less aggressive in his driving style though fast, but it still seemed to unload a tire.

Even with all this happening the chassis does not become upset enough to have the rear come around.

I persoanally want to say it needs more rear side spring control. Possibly put the CRC unitune back on running the tweak screws and side springs combined. Or build an old school type adjustable antiroll bar to allow quick change fine tuning of the Tplate.

Any thoughts?

PK

PMK - Are you running at Tim's new track? The surface there is very unusual and you may want to try a different rear tire to reduce traction a bit. Old fashioned Green Dot foam might be the way to go.

What traction compound are you using? IF you are using Paragon or some other "real" traction compound you might be getting too mush grip out of the tires. Try some Coppertone Water Babies 45. Coat the rear tires, let it soak in for as long as you can, the longer the better. Wipe it off with a tire rag until the tires are all clean (they may still feel slick, thats OK) ands go race. The suntan lotion will give more moderate, more consistent traction than "real" traction compounds.

Edit: Actually never mind, I found what I needed in a search lol.......

-Korey

Korey,

Check out Mike Lufaso's site, he has got loads of set-ups on that site with even more tips and tricks.

Super Dialed, thanks. :sweat: :p

-Korey

Yes Adrian this is at "The Rink". As for tire traction, I talked to Tim before they were totally dialed on the VHT, and hr mentioned the tires building up with a coating, that said I have always run an old Florida outdoor standby, Goop hand cleaner. Similar to the suntan treatment.

It is easy to overdrive the car there. A few times I've had some grip problems but those were more track prep related.

As set I have a fairly tight diff but is smooth and free spinning, which is usually a good thing. The thing is this has a very similar feel to an old Delta diff or the 2WD SG gas car with a gear diff I ran long ago. I almost suspect the car is almost bicycling at times and as the inside rear lifts it limits the drive and settles the car down again. Also consider that when I ran an 063 tplate it was almost easy to turn in and just flip the car with a traction roll.

I do have a ton of new but old sealed green donuts I can test, I just have a funny idea that for 8 minutes you are going to need almost the same gear thruout the run, and fear the greens will get too small.

PK

i run today at the carpet track in tucson, ran greys rears in the first round...no problems. put pinks on for the second round and had what you somewhat described plus twitching (grab & break) in the turns. i run a DP Q-12 with CRC parts, for the main i used tweak screws and the unitune springs, car was dialed and i was ripping till the dump monster realed me back, ended up second.

once our layout starts setting up a black groove for the current layout i will end up going either to a CRC graphite t-bar or the .74 thru .81 two stages ones i just got from teampowerpush.com to help reduce rear byte even more, keep the car running flatter in the turns

PMK - I don't think "The Rink" (Its gonna stick :nod: ) is very abrasive. Greens may last longer than you think.

If you are running Mod you will have to make the pinks work. If you are running Stock or 19T you might be faster with less grippy tires.

You might want to go thicker on the T-Bar. The T bar you use is dictated by traction not surface. You can run a .075" T bar on asphalt if the traction is high enough. You could run it with just the two outer pod mounting holes for more forward grip if you need it.