Why don't they just sell the Hammer as a stand alone kit?!?!? I've never understood why anyone would want to buy say a new L4 and THEN pop ANOTHER $150 on a "conversion" kit that you can't buy replacement parts for...

It seems silly to me. :rolleyes:

some companies can not purchase the front end set from Assoc. and purchasing the part as part would rack up the price to make a conversion not financially sound. also the axle parts are the same problem.

Re: Re: Hammer
 

Yeah but I don't want to use tape. Who makes a battery mount?

Re: Re: Re: Hammer
 

Not really true, you can buy the Oldschool frontend for like 20-30 and then just get the rear bulkheads and a screw kit.


Why wouldnt you want to use tape, it holds the best. I dont think its possible for one to make mount for the hara chassis since it is soo narrow. There is no way to but a screw anywhere on the side. Unless you make it like the T force kind, but even then it still seems pretty impossible.

rig up some velcro

Re: Re: Re: Re: Hammer
 

Why wouldnt you want to use tape, it holds the best. I dont think its possible for one to make mount for the hara chassis since it is soo narrow. There is no way to but a screw anywhere on the side. Unless you make it like the T force kind, but even then it still seems pretty impossible. [/B][/QUOTE]

Tape is a pain in the butt. I like the rubber band on my CRC but I would prefer a CF brace that was screwed down. I saw one on a car I was racing against and I think that's the ticket.

I think velcro would be too thick if you wrapped it around the chassis... scrape the ground.

I have a set of the "old school" front end for my l3 and was just wonder how you set camber and caster. I dont see how you would do this, unless I am missing somthing. Are there different blocks for different settings?
Thanks

actually there are blocks that are slanted so you get your camber but I think zero with the old school is fine and 10 with the new associated one.

The idea of a conversion kit, it seems to me, is for people who already have a car and want to move onto something else.
Or, as in my case, you can build a car with the kit and spare parts you have already.

OD ygpm

There are 0 and 2 degree shims for ride height and castor adjustment (use two 2 deg shims for 4 deg). For camber adjustments you use header card or shim stock under the inside or outside of the block.
The 0, 5 and 10 degree blocks on the new style front end change the amount of reactive caster, the basic caster setting is made with the white hinge pin shims.

On the old style front end, couldn't you also run a tie brace with a turnbucle and loosen the front end mont screws, dial in some camber and then evenly tighten the screws again. I know crude but doable. I thought the center mount hole was designed to do this.

PK

Rear Supension Limiters
 

For those using a T plate with discs like an L4 or it's many derivitives, anyone here use the chassis roll travel limiters? These are basically a funny shaped plastic washer that is nested over the damper post and lies between the damper discs. It's outside shape matches the top pod plate cutout for the damper post while the inside shape is modified to limit chassis roll.

Any tips from those that run them. Typically under what conditions, and can the chassis become upset if the side roll bottoms prior th scraping carbon fibre?

Just curious.

PK

PMK,

On my L4s , I just use the one with the larger hole for carpet racing. You might try a run without one and then a run with one to get the feel both ways.

Don't use em at all for asphalt.

Re: Rear Supension Limiters
 

i ran one once. it seam to me that it kind of works like a sway bar on a tc. it limits the amount of roll and would break tracktion past that point.