gray rears, i think pink fronts, .018 front springs, silver center spring, 30 wt oil, and its a decently highbite track. I Have all the tracktion i need, but just was wondering what I can do for a little more on power sterring

from the setup, it sounds like you should have plenty of steering coming out. i would try the sauce...

hey guys. it time to replace my L3. and im undecided on which one to get. im leaning towards the corally sp12 anoheim edition since thats what the fast guys are running at my local track. do u guys have any recommendations? whats the fast car in ur track?

If your rear pod has some droop, try running it with a little less or even flat. This should give you more on power front bite.

If you want to put shims under the rear T-bar pivot, do you shave off some material of the standoff that's mounted on top of the pivot? What effect on the handling should I be looking for when I try that?
I am looking for some more steering , specially on corner entry. I run on a very high-traction track. I use an L4 with CRC grey rears and CRC or TRC purple fronts. I have tried using more traction compound up front, but was met with traction rolling. Using a more aggressive steer body made my car traction roll. (I switched from a P35 to a protoform bently).
I installed 40wt shock in the center shock in stead of 30, but that also made me traction roll. Applying a little less traction compound on front cured that. But I was back where I started that way.
I ended up with a very stable car, that lacked slight corner speed compared to the really fast guys, especially on corner entry.
I used the following setup:
Front:
20 springs,
-1.5degree camber,
-maximum turn-in castor setting.
Center:
-40Wt oil,
-Blue spring.
Damper discs:
-used Corally soft damper fluid.
Diff turned a little stiff (increased rotation of the car)
-Batteries in front position.
traction compound:
Rear full,
Front 1/4
Chassis/Tbar rake:
level
T-bar type:
.075

I want to try the following:
Smooth diff (less bearing wear)
30Wt center shock with silver spring
1 kingpin shim under front Tbar pivot
20Wt shock oil on damper discs.
Traction compound to front tire so that the car doesn't roll.
Perhaps I'll try less rear traction compound.
Any idea's/suggestions?

I have played with the shim thickness between the T-bar and the rear pod plate mount a little bit, but not enough to get a real good feel for it. The little bit it did play with it felt as if going to a thinner shim or even no shim's at all, between the T-bar and rear pod took steering away and added more rear traction. I have added a small shim, maybe .030" under the front T-Bar mount to the chassis and that added a little more rear traction. The thickness between the rear of the t-bar and and rear pod seems to be a more drastic change. I have not tried thicker shims than stock. You have to be careful on ride height changing that shim. Set your ride height off the chassis and not the rear pod.

I usually adjust the car to get more steering by going to a stiffer shock spring and thicker damper disk lube.

The few times I've had traction rolling problems was usally cured with using a smaller diameter front tire

take care
john

Pro10H,

try super small front tires. That should stop traction rolling. If you don't go over 3.5mm ride height.
For more steering, you either put the caster back to the middle pos, (std setting), or you start putting thin shims between the *front* T-bar pivot and the chassis.

Let’s address your traction roll problem first. JohnB is correct in saying to reduce the front tire diameter helps eliminate traction rolling. I now start a brand new set of front tires at 43mm and the rears at 45. With the new IRS rear ride height adjusters and a variety of front ride height washers, you can maintain a 3.0 rear to 3.5 front ride height with small diameter tires. If your car is still traction rolling after doing that, then super glue the outside side wall of the front tire as traction rolling is cause by the front tire catching the edge of the tire on the carpet and making the car flip.

As far as maintaining momentum in the corners, there are lots of theories on that. I set all of my cars up with a very stiff setup. Rear shock 50 wt. oil with a black Speed Merchant spring equivalent to a stiff silver spring. The side dampener tubes have Trinity hydra drive grease in them and the side springs are purple. The stiffest available. The front of the car has 22 springs, four degrees of caster and about one degree of negative camber. I have the steering rate turned down to about 35 percent. All of this in an effort to get the car to maintain its speed in the corners. But while all of that helped I found the biggest improvement in making my car much faster in the corners with removing weight from the car. ROAR’s minimum weight for four cell 1/12th is 795 grams. My cars always hovered around the 830 range. I made a conscious effort to remove every bit of weight I could and now my car weighs in at around 813 in modified with a receiver pack and it is under weight in stock without a receiver pack. Big change in my lap times now and my run time has greatly improved. I am only about one to two tenths off of the fastest drivers which can be made up with better lines on the track.

Hi guys!

what would be a good setup for the L4 on carpet with a stock motor? thanks!

-Lee

I am using the stock setup with the l4 and it is very fast. We have the birds layout and the stock l4 setup is yielding 44-46 laps. This would put it very competative on the birds track.

I agree with Yang-stright up stuff-its as much in the application of the set-up as it is the set-up. So make sure you get everything perfect!!!

But in case you dont have a manual:

Front
Parma Purple tires. Sauce half to start.
10 caster mounts, middle.
MOunt servo flat and forward (you will need to cut off one ear and maybe trim the lower arm for clearance).
0-toe out, 2 deg camber.

0.020 front spring


T-bar-start with a 0.06, but have a 0.07 handy too. IRS teflon coated Pillow balls help smooth the t-bar immensley

Shock-30 wt AE oil and green spring.

rear axle max ROAR with (6.77")

Parma PInk or Grey if bite allows. IN other words-if car goes loose on you during run-run pink. If car doesnt come loose for full 8-minutes-run Grey.

Parma Speed 8 body.

try and run car flat as a board at 4mm to start. As tires wear-you should naturally drop a bt every run. Raise car back up when you start to get a lot of goo on bottom of chassis.

HOpe this helps,
Ray

i am new at 1/12 only 2 months. But Ray has the exact setup I run. the only difference is I run at 3.5, I started running .22 springs in front this past week, and I am cheap so run my front tires starting at 46 and rear, I don't even cut down. I do true them as they wear. I am told it will be faster as they get smaller. But everything Ray has posted is spot on. Even down the the irs balls.

On another note. If you don't want to works so hard on maintaining the same ride height run after run on the same day, Have serveral sets of tires. I notice that my front don't wear down much, but my rears do. So I have 2 sets of fronts and 4 sets of rears. At the beginning of the day, I true the fronts to all the same and the rears to all the same, then set ride height and change rears every run and rotate the fronts.

speed 12 vs protoform ascari
 

I have been running the speed 12 for the lat 2 months, but i needed a change in my body this past week and the hobbyshop only have ascari bodies. I quickly sprayed one up and mounted it. The thing had no steering on the fast sweeper but was fast in the infield. What we found was that the body has just too much rear down force that the front of the body was lifting at speeds so it reduced the amount of steering when you were on throttle. To solve this we cut the cutouts in the rear of the body and this made the car very responsive. It was quick all around.

I am sure the veterans know this, but I have been seeing soo many newbies (including myself) in this thread, thought I would post this to help out.

:)

It's been my experience that both the speed 12 and the Ascari have too much downforce for stock. The speed 12 seemed to be better for me but your results may vary.

CEFX has a new body that works really well but it may not be available everywhere yet.

The Parma speed 8 is still the best body that I've found for stock.

Pro Ten if you really have that much traction.I would recommed,going to a 5degree caster block instead of the 10 degree block(going to the 5degree will take out alot of the initial bite going in the turn,so that should help some and widen the frt should do the rest).also if you put the calandra front axels on the car that has the nut on it you can widen the frt end(placing shims behind the wheel to bring it out) and that will help alot with the traction rolling.and once you do that you can try narrowing the rear abit to get the car to rotate quicker.