Regarding the rear flaged bearing blowing, try Slapmaster's thrust bearing, instead of using the stupid cone and beville washer. You will never blow that bearing again! Brian (Slapmaster Tools owner) have been using the same balls and diff rings for over 13 months now and it's smooth as glass. His post is about a couple of pages back. I'm using the thrust bearing now and it's real smooth and your diff is very consistent.

Dom

anywhere other than crc direct that sells crc parts?

will a hitec hs 81 servo fit the rc12l3? or is it too small?

Re: Old school front end
 

Hmmm,

I just ordered 2 complete old skool front ends from Speedmerchant's website and received them both. Maybe, I ordered the last two???

Does anybody know where to purchase the KO 947 servo besides KO's website?

Thanks, Mike

ko 947
 

Mike-
The Ko PDS 947 has been replaced by the PDS 949. It seems to work the same as the 947. You can buy them from KT Hobbies at www.kthobbies.com
On the old school front ends, maybe I just didn't find them, I didn't look too hard...
O'D

Re: ko 947
 

O'D,

Yea, I know, but I really do not need all of the programmable features of the KO 949 nor the price tag of nearly $100 +...especially when the KO 947 was around $60 and had the same specs!

Mike

Re: Re: ko 947
 

If you found the 947 for $60 congratulations! the cheapest I ever found it was 80-something from Hong Kong. I think the suggested retail for both servos was about the same. Anyway, the 947 isn't available anymore to the best of my knowledge. You can get a Futaba 9650 for about $60 and it's a good servo.
O'D

i just wanted to get the tweak right, do you lift the back of the car and then if the right wheel you screw down the left tweak screw on the tbar correct?

I heard about a 2 coin trick: you put like 2 quarters on the front wheels and then lift the front and which ever wheel drops the coin first you change the tweak on the opposite side of the tbar? is that correcct?

I also heard/saw a tweakless t bar? if there is one where to find it and what are the pros and cons of it?

Sorry for so many questions, just want to get it all on the right page.

thanks

Jon

tweeked
 

I use the coin drop method. You tighten the screw on the side that comes off the board first. This method doesn't work well if there is slop in the kingpins (up and down)
I use nickels instead of quarters (quarters are too heavy)
And nickels are cheaper...
O'D

Also-you have to lift in the exact center of the chassis.

Re: tweeked
 

I have watched a couple experts at Stockton utilize the 2 quarter method. For the first side that drops the quarter (because it is the first to raise), you initially loosen (back off) the screw on the other side and then tighten the screw an equal amount on the same side that raised first. This way you don't excessively over tighten the screws against the bottom plate. The experts also suggest adjusting a maximum of 1/8 turn at a time before rechecking.

Seems to work well for me.

Re: tweeked
 

thanks OD

So you tighten the SAME side as the wheels that lets the coin drop first?

As you pick up the front end of the car in the center, if the coin on the left tire drops then you tighten the right rear for a spring car.

okay thanks.

Jon

Re: Re: tweeked
 

you know, I should have asked what kind of car you are running. T-bar cars and "spring" cars are opposite. Same side for t-bar cars, opposite for spring cars. And I was talking about lifting the car from the front-as in the coin drop method.