Yep, now many have jumped on the bandwangon.


I just wish I had lowered pod plates and lowered front a arms for my rug rat:D .

latz

But do you think its that much cheaper, i mean the cars are cheaper but what about tires, because foams on asphalt i bet go pretty quick.

Tire Diameter
 

Guys-

What is a good starting diameter for 1/12 scale? Obviously, out of the package the foams are HUGE to say the least.

Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated.

Joe

joe, bring them to the tracki will true them,

1.85 front
1.95 rear is where i start....that should be ok....right... i hope so...

Ok Im a 1/12 newbie, I bought a yokomo yrx12 last year and ran it one time. My question is I built the diff according to the manual and I thought it was fine but a couple of guys at the track said it was way to tight, they said it is supposed to spin pretty freely. Also what is the best way to hold the batteries in place? Tape seems to be to much of a hassle is their anything else I can do? Just out of curiosity is the yrx12 still compeitive against some of the newer 1/12's? Anybody have a good setup for the car on a very very tight carpet track. Sorry for all the questions Im a 1/8 offroad racer and just racing 1/12 for the winter. Thanks for any help.

The diff is supose to be fairly losse and tape is really the only thing ive heard for holding the batteries in place.

Tony montana - Trifecta? Alot of the fast 12th guys(Mike D, Gray, Lufaso....) run at the track in Gaithersburg. The diff should spin freely but should not slip. I believe komkit still runs a yrx12, shoot him a pm about setup.

Tire Diameter
 

Matt-

I ended up calling Scotty; he said 1.90 rear and 1.78 fronts.

I went a little bit bigger on the front (1.80) and was right around 1.90 for the rears. Jon from HobbyTown USA let me use their truer this evening (Hudy); one sweet truer.

Shoot me your email address so we can keep in touch.

And thanks for the offer of truing.

Joe

[email protected]

You can easily get 4-5 race weekends on a set of tires...batteries are cheaper, motors last forever, you don't have to worry about track temp/tire inserts, and best of all 8 minutes!!!!!!!!!!!:nod:

You know it.........:nod:

Guys,

The Hammer chassis looks very light.
Is it still stiff?
Or is part of its design to flef?

Pizza

Picco, P2, doughnuts,

If you race Stock on carpet the tires will last months not weeks. The problem is keeping the tire sizes correct. If the stagger between the tire sizes front to back changes too much, the handling changes radically, and the rears generally wear faster than the fronts.

with a 10T i lost around 1mm foam after 8-9 packs of battery

i start with 45 at the front and 47 at the rear...if the front is lager than 46 the car wont turn in a smooth circle, it runs a coner in a "L" way.

Fatdoggy, yeah I'll probaly be running at Trifectia. I would come up to the track but Im just starting to run 1/12 so I basically suck right now. One more question about the diff, I tried readjusting it and it feels good but I can still turn the spur gear with one finger. But if I go about another 3/4 of a turn the diff then feels way to tight

tony - I think your problem is that there is excess oil or grease on the balls and rings and it's making the diff slip. So when you tighten it to stop the slippage it makes the diff way to tight(but may still slip). Take the diff appart and clean it all with motor spray to get any oil or grease off the rings or balls. Try assembling the diff first dry to see if excess lube was the problem, then rebuild it with a little diff lube. Re-assemble and hopefully it will work properly. The ideal diff will be super smooth, tight(only enough to stop the spur slipping) and yet spin freely. If your diff has any slipage it will scar the rings and then the diff can feel gritty. If your diff doesn't feel smooth first check the outside bearing that takes the side load, they wear out quickly.