Please do post a pic of that because I am not sure of what you are saying.

Here's mine that I painted last year...:)

side view

Front view.

No Airbrush...straight from the Can... cutting the pattern was a pain in the butt.

And it's bigger brother...my Pro10:

LOVE the Pro10!!! I am so close to building a Pro10 235mm so I can use the GTP bodies. Right now I have a Speedmerchant 200mm Speed Spec Sedan ready to race at CORCAR!!!I literally need only $20 in parts to finish a Pro10 car.

Ray

I wish more people ran the Pro10 class.. it was great running GTP cars back in the days....especially when Nissan dominated the real GTP class...

Anybody got a good set-up for the Yok. YRX-12? it's been 2 years since I ran 12th scale... set-up similar to the L3?..that I previously owned... 12 scale is picking up again at our outdoor tracks...

whoa holy sh1t thats nice rczombie!


I backed red with black and i used fastchange blue for the white/ thats why it looks blue!

are there any decals on those bodies? they are very good

I cut the wheel wells and took the mask off the windows

no decals except for the # and lettering logos...
the Japan Flag is painted into the body.
I basically copied the Tamiya Toyota GT1 body that I had.

good job! Hope you win some races with it...

Having some problems with the 12l4. I put the rear tires on (TRC), but even with all the shims included in the box the left side tire rubs on the lower pod. It is just barely now with 4 shims perside, but still noticeable. I could shave a little of the inside of the tire, but I can't imaging this is right. Also, I measured with my calipers and both sides seem to be exaclty the same width. I considered turning the left hub around so that the wider side is toward the inside, but it is clearly shown in the manual with the narrow side in.

Seeing as this is the same rear as the 12l3 with just an IRS axle, I am sure this has come up before. Any help?

Also, anyone ever notice that the wheel wells on 12th scale bodies never seem big enough as molded?

Mine doesn't do this...

How many shims did you use, and does your left side bearing holder sit flush with the inside of the bulkhead or stick in a little?

I guess the issue that bothers me is that both sides are the same, and going out more is going to be running into the body.

rear axle install 12th scale style.
 

24601-step one is draw a line through the middle of the bottom of thechassis and mark the back of the pod. This the cars centerline. Use the screws in the middle of the chassis to help you do this.


Step two is space the left rear wheel out till it doesnt touch pod. Dont worry about pics in manual on this one. Just do what it takes. Now measure from chassis centerline to insde of rim on both sides. Hopefully the right is too narrow compared to left!!!

Step Three-make both sides of the car symmetrical with shims added on the right.

Step four-now place both tires over a ruler and hopefully from outer edge to outer edge cars total width does not exceed 6.75" or so. if it does-cars illegal by ROAR standards.

Generalrule of thumb for t-plate cars is to run rear axle as wide as rules allow.

Hope this helps and ask if I am being confusing.
Ray