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Really? How would I tape it down? all the way around the chassis? Any pics would be appreciated....
thanks, |
Originally posted by =MisFitz= NuKe well to install a switch, all you do is put the switch inline with the red wire. So solder one end(after you cut the red wire) on to the middle post, then solder the other end onto either of the outer posts of the switch. |
I run a Futaba S9602 servo. So that allows me to lay the servo flat on the chassis and screw it down. Just go to Tower website and check the pic out of one and you'll see what I'm talking about.
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Reciever packs
I just put an AAA battery IN line (series) with the + wire from the speedo to the reciever. Take your 4.8 volts and add 1.5 or 1.2 to it and you get 6.3 or 6.0 volts to the receiver. Less weight, same effect.
All I do is cut the RED wire from the speedo, solder the side From the speedo to the - side of the battery, and the side that goes TO the receiver to the + side of the battery and Walla! You have full voltage for the radio and servo. Adds range and cuts down on glitching. An alkaline battery will last 2 or 3 race days. Can be checked with a voltmeter any time. Can be done with a Nimh AAA also. I'm sure you could do it with ONE of those 1/3 AA cells too. I have not tried it. I also have not tried a single AAA holder since I don't have much luck with them making good contact especially after a crash. A better way is to remove the red wire from the plug. cut the terminal off, solder the wire to the negative side of the single cell, take another red wire from an old servo, cut it at the servo end. Solder this end to the Posative side of the battery, run the end with the terminal back into the plug. this makes it easy to mount the single cell in a convient place near the center of the car. Hope this makes sense. David Root |
16 Gauge Wire Is INSTOCK!
We now have ultra silicone 16 Gauge wire in stock!!!! Colors instock are Red, Blue, and Black. Sold in 2 foot pieces or by the roll. You can reach us at [email protected]
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Originally posted by Rookie Solara But what does the TRACTION has to do with using receiver pack..? I saw somone mentioned with the high traction carpet track, you need receiver pack, but if you race outdoor asphaut with low to no traction, you don't need to...why is that? P2 |
It's called throttle control :sneaky:
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Originally posted by KilRuf Depends on the price of the Yok. Usually they are around $200-230. With a 12L3 and the RugRat... you are looking at around $150 for L3 and $100 for black RugRat. Or build one from scratch just buying the AE 1/12th front end kit for like $35 (AE4401). Then selecting your own rear end pod plates and T-Bar and accessories (pivot ball and pivot ball holder and screws and shims). AE pod sets the axle higher than Yok or IRS rear end with same axle height adjuster. So you can only go soo small on your tires before the rear end is lower than 3mm (which makes it not legal for carpet.) Hmmm need a rear axle too with accessories. Oh yeah... rear VCS Micro Shock. Anyways, I'm sure you get the picture. Oh yeah... and if the Yok was stiffer, I would have stuck with it since I'm a Yok kind of guy hehe.... The Yok actually has spots to add damper rods. So I would have taken off the damper plates and added rods instead. I'm sure there is a stiffer chassis out there you can toss on the Yok. I just didn't feel like searching it out. Also on the Yok... you can only run Yokomo T-Bars (I don't think they sell a thick one). So to switch to a thicker T-Bar for carpet you'd need to switch to AE pivotball holders. |
Originally posted by Rookie Solara This is LAYDOWN ( I believed).... http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ajraceway/Picture%20011.jpg Some ppl like to mount their servo above the chassis in ANGLES, with the stock servo mount, you can mount the servo above the chassis (in angle) |
yes
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Is that only avalible with the blue chassis?
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And how do you adjust the side/side dampening?
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side/side is controlled through the dampner tubes... they are underneath where they normally are!
and yes, blue only:nod: |
Thank you everyone here explain to me about the reason why ppl use recevier pack on high traction track....and they all make sence.
About the laydown servo and installation..........now a day, beside using 3M servo tape and shoe glue.....most MICRO servo from Futaba, KO or Sanwa made their servo with special mounting "EARS"..........you can mount the servo by using 2 4-40 screws with lock nuts and mount the servo in laydown position with using any double sided tape and shoe glue (compare to the way I mounted my servo on my last 12th scale TRC Pro 12 back like 16-18 years ago....)....you can find that kind of servo from the link below....like this S9602, I think that is a good servo to use on 12th scale (the one I have is from Sanwa....pretty much the same thing) Futaba Mini Servo for 12th scale Yes, that was the new Trinity Relfex 12.....only come in blue carbon fiber version now, but I heard they will have PINK Barbie edition coming (Just kidding).... Side/side damping, like others said....no springs/shock using but to adjust those damper you have to use the different degree/thickness of the GREASE (white, red, or 50/50 mix) to control the dampering's fliction....(thicker or lighter), those setting are listing on the installation manual |
Damper tubes
I use springs inside my CRC Damper tubes installed in my 12L3. The springs come from ballpen, hehehehehehehe try it works for me!!
Lem |
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