Donuts, the whites have more grip=push. You can still get around just don't expect the steering or corner speed you get with grays. You want to dope the inside of the front tires. I myself use Paragon, always have. I've have run Zip Free but only when the track required it. I did run Red Dot a couple of times on asphalt, too sticky. If the track had any dust on it the tires would pick up all the dirt and lose traction after about 2 minutes.

Jonny,
COOL, as you know I am just trying to keep the 1/12 forum on the first page so it doesnt get lost. Anyone else have any thoughts or ideas so we can keep this thread thriving?
IKE :)

Socko....does Finishline put anything on their track(vht, grape sode etc.)....What tires do you use on asphault/concrete......I hope 1/12 makes a big comeback.....i raced off road for years while 1/12 WAS big...now that i am running 1/12, i wish i would have raced them years ago.......I really enjoy the longer races...you can get into a groove....one of the guys i race with agrees...sedan is just the warm up race for 1/12.....

As far as keeping it on the first page...post post post.

I thought Paragon was made illegal since it can counter act the glue used to glue down ozite, plus it just isn't good to inhale all day long, at the track I mean. Everyone in the Twincities uses TQx's formulas-they don't smell so strong and they last longer, I think. well there's my two cents.

Petenis:batman:

where do you get the TQ stuff?
IKE

Sorry, Paragon is still legal. Some tracks won't let you use it because of the smell/odor thing. TQ works fairly well but I have found that you have to leave it on longer to get the traction to last the whole run.

Dragon, FL uses sugar water for traction and the bite is good. Gear BIG! and run more ride height so you don't drag.

Anybody have a good setup for a Rev. 3 running stock. And does anybody have any motor setup tips for stock 12th with the Trinity Blue endbell handout motor, could also use some roll-out sugestions for a fast sweeping 120'X48' ozite track.

darnold,
is the part number on the new 1/12 from Trinity 9830???????I cant tell which one I need to order. I have been trying to order it for about a week and a half but my LHS cant figure out which one is which. Also do you happen to remember the part number on the thicker T-BAr that I will need from Trinity? I can still use all my other stock parts right? Thanx again
IKE

The side links on my CRC Carpet Knife were binding, so I ordered a new set from Calandra. I tried squeezing them but one side still binds. Does anyone know if the Speed Merchant side links will fit and what will I need to make it work? I could also have my LHS order really short Lunsford titanium turnbuckles and uses Associated ball ends. What do you guys think? Thanks.

Ty: I have a SpeedMerchant Rev.3, and my kit came with the plastic (tube and piston) side damper. I replaced them with CRC blue anodized alumunim ones, when I broke one of the originals in a wreck. If I remember correctly, the Rev.3 links are a little shorter. You can still make them work though.

Also, Buds makes a side damper, but the cost was similar to the CRC anodized units??? :weird:

Schurcr, Try the Knife setup I posted below for Ty. The two cars are very similar. Start with the batteries back. For gearing try a 46-48mm rollout.

Ty, The side links will fit. Calandra has them too. You just attach them at the front in place of the spacers for the battery brace.

Hey Everyboddy- Glad to see all of the post. I had to start the routine again of going into the office up in Madison (I live in Ill) Tues-Thurs to help my partners out with out community revitalization project. Just got in.

Foams- According to my manual the Trinity 02 car is part# SB 9830. I normally use the Associated Thick T-Bar since they are usually available from the LHS but you HAVE TO BUY THE ASSOC. T-BAR CUPS AND SCREWS!!! I just bought a Trinity Thick T-bar about a week ago but I don't have the header card. I would think your LHS would be able to get you the Trinity Thick T-bars. Just remember that Trinity in the manual seems to mis-state the Thin T-bar (.063) as being a Thick T-bar but it's not because the Thick T-bar from them is (.073) and they don't give a part number for it in the manual. Hurry up and get that car dude.LOL

Ty- Check one of my earlier post where I talk about the CRC/Speed Merchant "football" setup. I would advise re-setting that first because often these go out of alignment and it will bind up the links. The problem is that unless you have the motor, rear axle assembly, and tweak plate off you won't be able to really feel any "kink" or bind in the links and or football. Also, the monoball cups do need to be replaced every so often (once or twice a season) because they develope slop in them just like the T-bar cars do, and the ball can move up and down in the cups. This slop is definately not good for these cars. Also if you are going to use the Speedmerchant setup you may want to look into the Lunsford's for the side links IF you can get them thin enough so that the are the same as stock.

Foams- I now use magenta fronts on my home track and dope them almost the entire width (remember that I run mod). The traction at Venture is good. When I go to a High bite track similar to the grip at a Cleveland like the Grand Rapids race was last Sunday I use Purples and go about 2/3-3/4 dope on the fronts.