Fantom offers a similar option...

https://www.fantomracing.com/proddet...?prod=FAN26176

:) Thanks!


I've posted some other videos that might be of some help.

Upper Suspension Arm. Thanks again vafactor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqxh7UXq5k4

Side Link Check
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zlJ4sIElN8

Axle Slop Fix (low quality video :confused:)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgj1Kd6WhzM

Steering Ackermann Positions (just some general guidelines for ackermann)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnLphGVOypk

Please comment on a particular topic. :sneaky:

Enjoy :smile:

Re: Ackermann video. Ackermann geometry is the inside tire having greater turning angle than the outside tire. You can change the amount by moving the position of the balls on the servo saver forward or back, or moving them closer or further apart on the servo saver. Further apart increases the amount of Ackermann effect. (Changing the pivot ball location on the steering knuckle can also change the Ackermann effect, but there's not much room to do it on a 1/12 scale car.)

The description in the video is incorrect; moving the balls on the servo forward decreases the Ackermann effect.

From Xray's 1/12th Setup Book

Ackermann can be adjusted by the number of shims that goes between servo saver and ball end.

• MORE shims under the ball end means more Ackermann.
• LESS shims under the ball end means less Ackermann.

So what I metioned above is incorrect, right? So what is stated in the setup book is incorrect.

Thanks a bunch for the comment :)

I also noticed that the XRay manual describes ackerman backwards. So yeah, it seems incorrect.

Great! I'll delete the original and create another video. Is there any other additional infomation I should add before I make the other video?

It would be very informative if you showed, given zero toe setting, how much lock you get on the outside tire when the inside is at some reference angle (let's say 30 degrees), and how the angle of the outside tire varies with different ball positions. That's a bunch of work, but you'll have many people referencing that video until the end of time, and piling even more accolades upon you!

Many thanks for your efforts on all of these videos.

That would actually be simple to do with the right software. Which brings me to another point. The reason you want the rods to sweep back (servo saver more forward of the steering block tie rod mount) is to avoid going over center. What I mean by that is that with straight rods or only slightly swept back, the rods can go from a condition of being swept back, going towards straight as steering is applied to swept forward at full lock. This could cause a weird S curve in a plot of the ackerman. It should never cause reverse ackerman, the geometry of the spindles would make that really tough to achieve but you could still see some undesirable traits.

All that being said, 1/12ths don't seem to be all that super sensitive to it. Yes it does make some difference but I have driven some cars with some whacked steering geometry that were still dialed.

Yes, and I'm sure all modern cars are designed that way. But I think showing someone the actual effect on a real car will drive the point home.

As an aside, I recall designing the linkages for Ackermann with paper and pencil when I was a kid. CAD really spoils us! I wouldn't want to go back.

Once those front tires start sliding at the limit of adhesion, then Ackermann is much less of a concern!

I suspect it's because the cars corner so hard that the inside front is very lightly loaded so it could be at almost any angle and still work. That's also why it does seem to have a larger effect on initial steering response. There's still some load on it initially.

Current setup: 13.5 Tekin, Gen2 setup
80spur and a 50 pinion gear giving me a roll out of 90ish.

At the end of last season a number of cars were quicker; the biggest reason I think was one of them was running a D4

Is the ESC and motor worth upgrading? I'm not going to win any trophies in the near future so should I have a higher roll out to compete with the D4 and perhaps get a higher mah lipo?

I run a novak 1s booster and first thought it was more lipo intensive than other methods say receiver battery or a build in booster like the Hobbywing. Car just felt like it was dying; of course at that race I ran a Reedy 13.5 and not the higher rpm 13.5 tekin.

Any thoughts?

What size and traction of tracks? What car? What setup?

Luke

There's no reason to "upgrade" the ESC. A built-in booster is no better than an external booster, except to reduce wiring.

The receiver and servo draw very little current compared to the motor, so there's only a slight advantage to running a receiver battery.

+1

A flat lipo, and non-optimised motor/roll setup could be all that need tended too

Reedy 13.5 are plenty good to keep up with anything trincorp has

Yep your speedo is fine. 13.5 1/12th is mostly about car set-up, motor and battery. Getting the car to corner really hard without scrubbing too much speed or traction rolling is the biggest key. Seriously I have had a car that felt really good and easy to drive, made a tire change for a more aggressive response and picked up .5 a lap!

After that, a good motor with the right timing and rollout is key. For the motors I have run, over 90 sounds a little high on the rollout. If I need to go that high to keep up, I can get better results going the other way and adding timing. 85 to at most 90mm seems about right. Maybe a big track plus a super strong rotor would need more.

Batteries. They are all about the same for the first two minutes or so. Where the good ones really shine is the last two minutes. Orcas, R1 White Lightning and CRCs are superb.