If I was running stock, I would probably always start with Green rear and blue front. Remember to think of tire changes as side bite, forward bite is about the same on all the tires now days. In mod green's free up the car because the side wall is not as hard as blue. In stock I think green's lock the car in. So you want to try and get to the Blue setup as soon as the track will hold it. This will be the fastest combo compared to greens and others as long as the track will hold it. White and black will probably always work at most tracks but will not be as consistent as the new foam.
Europeans like the new Orange, not the Jaco orange. This is like a green but with a little harder. I have ran this a lot in MOD but haven't tried it in stock.
Soft Green's or the new name (Yellow) are good but we start to get too soft with these, so they may not always be the best.
I don't like explaining in terms of harder or softer because a lot of our tires are about the same shore rating, but the foam cell structure is different. To explain them that way I would need to go to school and get a chemistry degree :)

I hope to have a chart available soon with all the color names and what each mfg. call's them. the current charts are all wrong. Not sure if I will put shore rating on the chart, but I need to put something so racers know what direction to go in if they want to make a change.

Keep checking www.facebook.com/proonerc

Steve

LOL Not a single comment on the Buick Grand National GNX pics I shared earlier...I guess you see those every day. :rolleyes:

Anyway, maybe it's posted in the wrong section; I see there's a vintage 1/12 forum too, but since this is resto-modded with modern electronics, I wouldn't know which one to post it in.

Some body-off shots of the car, I installed a 1S LiPo, Turnigy TrackStar Gen II 1-cell ESC, 17.5T Trinity Revtech Kill Shot motor I bought from another member here, fabricated a custom battery tray and hold-down, and fabricated my own custom bumper to protect the body.

Chassis started with a vintage AE RC12L3.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...ont-bumper.jpg
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...tional-gnx.jpg
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...tional-gnx.jpg

Nice job. But I would replace those wires with 16ga.

I'm not sure what pro one uses for foam but with the CRC Double blue front tires I have noticed that there is a slight push when running them with blue rears. When running blue rears I always run blue fronts as well to get just that little more responsiveness and steering. In 13.5 I love the green rear double blue front. It seems to me that greens rotate just a little more and allows the double blues to work well and keep the car calm with the extra speed of 13.5. Just my observation and what works for me.

That's a linear accuracy. CMMs create point clouds in 3D space so what's required is the volumetric accuracy, the repeatability and the bias.

When you conduct a full measurement system analysis what you end up with is that for the purposes of sentencing a product with 99.997% certainty (3ppm defective; 1.33 Cpk) you end up with the 0,004mm number.

We use all types of CMMs to sentence products you hand your life to when you travel. We don't want to scrap anything, so we know precisely what these things are capable of - and we have more than any other company in Europe!

In reality it is exactly as you say - the flattest ring in the world bought at considerable expense and mated to a hub that is made to a tolerance 10 times bigger and probably bent in a big hit! You wonder why people bother...! :rolleyes:

All of this about diff rings that go on hubs that aren't that straight, with diff balls that aren't perfect and spur gears that are slightly off :)

Was thinking the same thing! :)

The smoothest diff I ever built used rings that looked like they had been run in a sand drag car for 20 years. Those things were GOUGED. Sanded them for about ten minutes (no hobby shops around, getting ready for a race in just a few days) and put it back together with fresh balls and a slapmaster. Smooth as butter. I'm still using those rings with just an occasional sanding.

I really don't understand how anal some people are about diffs. It's like it's become a competition for the smoothest, freest diff instead of the fastest car. Sometimes a stiff crunchy diff is actually better.

I stopped thinking...and yawned.

BSR mounts CRC and my Pro One wheels. I agree with Blue fronts for more steering, but if you can get away with a harder tires and still have steering, it should be faster :)

Steve

16ga wire would've been more flexible and easier to work with, indeed...but the way I soldered motor connector bullets perpendicular to the motor can, and ESC wires with 90-degree angled connectors, the stiffness of the bigger gauge wires actually helps to keep them up & away from the pod so they don't obstruct the action.

I also wanted to use blue wire, and all I had left was 14ga. :blush:

WE bored you? Imagine my concern... :rolleyes:

The phrase "verbal masturbation" comes to mind; I'm sure the rest of the forum "members" reading that post were awestruck by the 1337 tech knowledge and left in orgasmic paroxysms. Thanks for the wanks, by all means. :D

Come on guys

1/12th scale is the fun Scale :D

I've recently bought my first 1/12 in about 20 years, a used RC12R5.2 to run on 10.5 blinky. I bought some diff balls and new Kimbrough spurs to freshen up the diff. To my surprise the spurs take 12 balls but Associated sell them in lots of 8... Can anyone recommend alternative diff balls, or are the Associated ones good, but I'll need a few packs?