It can simply come down to personal feel as well. I don't like the CRC tires at all, my car feels inconsistent and weird on them. At the last big race I was at I literally went from a TQ car on Jaco's to a undrivable car that had to be pulled off the track with CRC's.

Which is why I think you gotta try everything and find what you like. Same goes for body, a lot of people run the CRC Audi at my club, I find it way too unstable and inconsistent.

I run them. Did you check rear trackwidth? The xceeds hve a different offset to jaco and crc and most likely increas trackwidth, hence the rubbing.

it seems with blinky and larger rollouts the higher torque rotor is a benefit compared to boosted where smaller rollouts and higher rpm benefits from the lower torque rotor.

although for the life of me i can't see how more torque can ever be a bad thing so it must be that the higher torque rotor somehow limits rpm?

Yes i ran it, hince how i knew the front where rubbing. I think im going to use them for practice and buy some other brand, they feel cheapish (even though i know they where) ill try crc next. But i need a tire truer or someting first.

IF i buy the ofna tire true what else to i need to be able to true the tires. i dont know what adapter or bit to get.

I like the the CRC True-All Adaper best so far.
Frank has some cool stuff

Looks quite similar to the piece that comes stock on the cheap Ofna truer.

My only problem with using my truer is with the wheels, I don't know if its just me but it takes a bit of trial and error with the position and tension on the wheel to make sure that it is spinning true. Nothing is more annoying than finding a brand-new tire doesn't spin straight when bolted on the axle.

I've tested all the available adapters, and the CRC unit self centers the best, on every type of wheel.
It's not perfect for any one wheel, but better than the rest.

imo the best option would use wheel screws as does the wheel hub on your car.
Of course that would take more time when truing, but it would in theory, be perfect every time.

A tip, I've learned with the truer arbor.
I put the screw in the end adapter piece, and when tightening, only use the end adapter to get it barely snug, tighten the rest of the way with the wheel, this seems to help center things better.

I really like CRC products in general...However I had problems with the truer arbor. Because the threaded section is not machined as part of the rest of the arbor it can be not straight and cause the wheel not to spin true. I've gone to the Hudy one and it is better but expensive.

Had my first 1/12 race on Friday.
Fun with a capital F!
See the track here
Thanks to the RCtech 1/12 community for the advice I have received.

Yes, a stronger or larger diameter rotor has more natural drag against the iron stator stack, which limits RPM. This effect is most noticeable off-power as drag brake. Yet another reason why optimum gearing ultimately comes down to each individual motor.

I've had very good luck using hi-rpm rotors in blinky 1/12 but what I've notices is if I hit something it takes longer to get back up to speed. You have to have a very efficient car in the corners to reap the benafits of the hi-rpm rotor otherwise it will slow you down.

hey guys i just got back into 1/12th scale and i got a crc gen xl, i'm looking for a setup station. what station works with the huge front axles on this car? what are you guys using?
i know alot of you guys say don't bother with one, but i always liked using one in the past.

I just picked up a Gen XL from a buddy of mine and want to know what is the best body to go with? I run in 13.5 blinky class on indoor crc carpet.

Im using the crc pacemaker.

CRC import 4 bodies from Blackart
Bomb'R=less aggressive


R8c=more aggressive


R10 LMP=Balanced


And the latest iteration R12 Mowhawk. which is apparently an improvement on the Bomb'R


These are of course all modeled after the all mighty Audi Prototype Endurance cars.