The learning curve for 1/12 is kinda steep, especially if the new guys have less-than-ideal equipment. We have had two guys get used 1/12 cars (which were well setup) and just drop them on the track, thinking that they could wheel it and probably had visions of beating up on the regulars, but obviously couldn't. They are both good offroad racers, but with our fast crew dicing it up for TQ I think they got the wrong impression being lapped by somebody every 15 seconds on average. It happened to me the first few times I tried this, and I only got good at it after I got the correct tires and put a sane setup on the car, but I did a lot of losing before I did any winning.

Now that I think about it, I haven't won in over a month, I got second in the A main four weeks in a row.:lol: Its okay though, the guys I lost to were pretty good. My response to this may have been overkill: I bought a whole new car.

Maybe driving 12th might take getting used to for new people but the cars are just way easier to deal with than 2wd off road or TC and it is not uncommon for a certain 12th setup to work at many tracks

I like .018 but most everyone has .020 on their cars
Caster is always around 5 degrees and camber is just to wear tires even
I mean set the side and top springs and your kinda done humbly speaking

lol

p.s.

You should take some pics of your next race of the cars and drivers

I had a lot of fun racing at the carpet track in tucson and I still can't remember the name of the really tall old guy that was totally into 12th there

:lol: Yeah true

But last week we had a pretty thrilling race where 3 of us were within a few millimeters for 8 mins, true side by side racing, and the crowd loved every min of it !

I'm so used to having the rip to make a pass stick in boosted, blinky is a lot of waiting and hoping for a mistake.
Fun in a different way, and a bit frustrating at times as well.

I want to see if we can have a go at 13.5 blinky this winter for club racing, might be a good option for an expert 12th class.
Mod is fun, but we haven't had the interest in the class I hoped for.

Do you use your LRP SXXv2 for blinky? 13.5/17.5

Yes I like the rip too...lol

That's what makes 12th awesome is that they are ridiculously fast and pretty much lap even the fastest TC cars

In time I will give you some mod action to race against probably by February :sneaky:

I did last week, due to a last minute class change.
Installed Blinky setup in the new 5.2

I think that was the 2nd blinky race I have run this year at TQ :lol:
But it was kind of fun.

I have a nice 1/12th scale custom airbrushed body in the consignment case at West Coast. I just dropped the price ten bucks its a naoto custom... looks sweet trying to get some gas money for my trip to the grand canyon before my wife goes back to work.
Check it out the next time you are there.
Thanks
notcho

I've been having fun trying to learn how to drive 1/12 13.5. And I've been getting my butt kicked every week but I know once I get it down packed I'll see some podium.

I have learned that not all 13.5's are the same. I'm using a Losi 13.5 with a TEKIN RS

I also learned that wire placement is very very important stay away from 12 gauge even wet noodle deans you can really tweak your setup badly. I'm waiting on a order from TQ now.

12 gauge in a 1/12 is overkill.

I like using 16 or 18 gauge and TQ's sensor cable.

Almost there - the reason a single damper is not preferred is that the amount of damping changes left to right. As the damper piston withdraws from the cylinder you get less damping area, and as it goes into the cylinder you get more. With two dampers you get the same damping all the time - as one piston withdraws the other enters, so the overall damping area is unchanged. The angles are no more of a worry than on the centre shock, but the area of damping is the concern. HTH :)

The word 'lock' is misleading. The word 'pack' is more appropriate. When the car starts to roll, thicker oils require more energy to get moving past the piston, so the car momentarily 'stops' rolling while the energy builds up to get the chassis on the move. With thinner oils, this is not a problem. I use the standard shock with 20wt and no problems. With such little movement in the shock, anything over 30wt is going to give you that problem.

Sometimes the roll rate is mistaken for the rear when it is the front that is the culprit. If you want less roll, stiffen up the side springs, not the oil. Oil and springs must be matched,otherwise the car will not snap out of turns straight, and will be lazy in chicanes.

Side dampers don't suffer from this problem, and it why they are coming back into fashion with various chassis alternatives available. However, they need more work and they are less consistent from one rebuild to the other for the average driver. HTH :)

Speaking of wiring...

It seems 16g is the most common wire for 17.5 blinky 12th, both for the motor and the battery wires.

Does 16g work fine for 13.5 boost? Ive seen some setups that have 16g on the motor and what looks to be 13 or 14g for the batt? Will 16g all around cut it?

16g wire is fine for 13.5 boost.

I've seen some guys use 16g for the battery wires also, but I prefer 14 or 13g wire there, just makes me feel better. :smile:

That would be Lonnie :nod:

The heavier wire to the battery doesn't hurt the handling since the they're both on the same chassis and do not move, but the thinner wire weighs less. ;)

Hmmm... Thanks. So what do you guys run for 13.5 boost? 16g motor/13-14g batt?


Also, does anyone know the offset of the TRC wheels? Same as the Jacos?

Either Rick or Lonny. Lonny is a 1/12 scale and pan car fanatic, Rick will also race offroad if the mood strikes him.