Good day!

Did you adjust the side springs?

Pull the left and right bulkheads off the pod, and detatch the lower pod plate from the chassis. Place the pod plate on a piece of glass, and make sure it's flat. If it is, check the left and right bulkheads on the glass to make sure they aren't bent. A bent left or right bulkhead can tweak the lower pod plate and cause the issue you've described.

If you find nothing wrong with the pod, check the chassis on glass to make sure it's flat.

Check you ride height adjusters in the rear pod and make sure they are the same and orientated the same way!

That could be the only explanation for the pod being off.

Ritchie...the day I feel I need you to validate my opinion, much less appoint you the arbiter of whether I have a point or not, I'll be sure to let you know.

Michael--the reason I don't buy CRC cars has nothing to do with the slots (or lack thereof) ;). Battery positioning / retention is my concern, whether it's a "big deal" or not. When the SMC 1s came out with the round cell contours on the bottom it was a no-brainer, it fit right into the slots. Unfortunately that was a single release feature. Now all our batteries are either square corners (SMC) or rounded corners (IP, etc) with flat faces. I've been half-assing braces to secure these packs fore and aft in my cars for what, a year and a half now, and have just had to go through the process again (after figuring out how to do it) on my trusty ol' 3.2R (don't ask why, but it's what I have to run this week). Does it work? Pretty much, though adjustability is a pita. And three times now playing re-engineer has pretty well exhausted what very little interest I may have had in that particular project.

If the new TOP chassis has a positive retention that secures these brick 1s packs I'll raise my hands to the heavens and shout "Hallelujah". I'm just not planning to shell out for any more chassis that have slots if that is what they intend to secure the batteries. Unfortunately battery mfr's aren't QUITE as uniform as the round cells were as far as dimensions so it's going to make the kit mfr's job that much tougher trying to create a universal battery positioning system.

At least that's how I'm seeing it. My opinion in this matter is certainly open to change ;)

Well one of the explanations but not the only...as Cypress notes a bent pod plate or warped lower plate will cause this as well. Also if you are using a link style rear suspension having the links too tight can as well.

Thanks guys for all the help with the shock building tips. I think I have a couple of Silva shocks laying around.
And @ Korey- SUCK IT!!! :lol::lol:

Thanks for the help guys it ended up being a very warped pod plate. Seems like if you tighten the bottom screws first before the brace it will tweak it. All is well now.

Now if i could just figure out gearing and rollout:confused:

I am new to on road and have a WGT but I have one question for all you pan guys. There is one thing that I am not able to figure out. Is there an ideal rollout?

Yeah, I shoulda covered that too. I usually just "snug up" the lower pod plate screws, tighten the "X" brace screws in a "X-pattern" then tighten the lower plate screws.

What size is your track, and what motor are you running?

Hey Pat,

There is an ideal rollout for every racing situation. Finding it is the hard part. It's rear tire size, spur, pinion and the layout that you're racing on.

At the IIC this year, I thought I had a great rollout for the 12th class. It had killer speed on the straight, but it was a little slow in the corners. I was racing against a guy who had a much lower rollout and he kill everybody in our heat in the corners.

If you think about the Timezone layout for the Gran Prix, you're gonna be on the straight for about 2 or 3 seconds. Then, you're gonna spend 10 or 11 seconds or so in the corners. It doesn't make sense to set the rollout for the straight, because you can program the RS take care of the speed there. Set your rollout for the infield so you can get through the corners without bogging down and you'll be good.

Check the fast guys tire sizes and go from there. Dave, Andy and Mark are a good source for information.

Hey Mr Spike lol

Thanks for your insight! I ran a couple 11.8s but that is off the pace by about 1 second a lap so I will be trying to have as much fun as possible at the race:D My car feels like it is getting pulled around by a rubber band attached to the car in front of me:lol: my temp has been low on all electrics.

What motor are you running? Has Dave looked at it?

I am always ready to learn. I am always looking for a mountain guru to sit at their feet and learn Jedi ways.

For example...

When it comes to rear traction for 1/12th in general, what 6 geometry, set up changes do you feel improve traction the most. I always seem to be looking for more rear traction at my local track and another set of eyes/opinion on the situation would be awesome. I am trying to improve my cars' (AE, SM, CRC) balance without removing steering, which may be drivable but slower...

I ask because I have seen two particular car brands excel on our track, and despite a couple years of solid week in and week out testing and trying ALL KINDS of changes, I can't seem to improve car A to meet the rear traction developed by cars B or C. (which in turn allows me to dial in more steering, which results in a faster car). The easy answer is to run car B or C at my track, but I don't want to take the easy way out, I want to learn.


Narrower rear axle width
Softer Center Spring/Oil
Larger Rear tires
Higher ride height (rear slightly lower than front)
Softer side springs
Thicker side dampening
Softer rear tires (I'm down to whites now)
Move body back
Move weight on chassis forward
Speed8 HD body
Top rear of center shock positioned closer to center pod pivot

I found going to a harder rear Tyre gave me more rear grip. I know its against what you think will work, but what i think is happening is that the car isnt trying to steer from the rear as the sidewall of the tyre flex's as it would with a softer Tyre. I could be really wrong though:lol:Whites are very soft, maybe go to Pinks? A softer side spring could give you more rear grip as long as the side to side movement isnt to soft cousing the car to be too reactive.

This was on Asphalt though, ive never run on Carpet before.

Antoni

All depends on what you're looking for.....
1. Will reduce the cars tendency to rotate, and will reduce exit steering on power
2. Will give you more forward bite, reducing exit steering on-power
3. Will add side bite, making the car slightly more stable, but more prone to chunking
4. Rake will make the car turn-in less aggressively off power
5. will add side-bite untill you reach the point of diminshing return by going too soft.
6. Slows weight transfer, will make the car less reactive
7. Whites are in general too soft, good forward bite, but lacks side bite. try yellow or grey
8. I never do this, as it really only affects the car at high speeds
9. slows longitudinal weight transfer. You don't really give up overall steering, but you will lose some turn-in
10. If you're normally running Speed 8's this body offers more grip everywhere.
11. I'd actually move the forward mounting point further forward if possible, though I haven't played with this adjustment in years.


HTH.....