Not a knock, just looking for facts. . .

isn't the splicing of the 16 gauge wire pointless with the 18 gauge connected to it? Does the " A chain is only as strong as its weakest link" apply here?
I'm thinking of doing this to a car, but if there's no advantage to the splice I will leave that step out and run 18 gauge all the way from the esc to the motor.

Must............































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1000!

Bah!


I suck at the inernet! :cry:

I believe he removed the insulation and put a coat of shrink wrap to thin the wire for under the batteries. That is not a splice.

Insp Gadgt did that wiring job.

How many posts before we get to page 1000?



...Jim
W.E.D.

http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/5...0208003uv4.jpg

:)


...Jim
W.E.D.

Good Question!

I would think the way the wires are curved up by the motor would limit the movement of the rear pod.

Just trying to get that 1000th page.

Actually, the important wires for power delivery are from the battery + terminal to the motor + terminal, and from the motor - terminal to the esc - terminal. When you splice a wire onto the batt+ to motor + wore to go to the speedo +, it can be ANY piece of wire. I've even used 22 ga. servo lead there. The wire from the batt + to the esc+ powers the ESC only, it does not deliver any power to the motor.

I see a LOT of guys run the + lead from the ESC to the motor, then splice a piece of wire to that to go to the batt + terminal. This is backwards... they're putting another solder joint in the power path.

The way ALL brushed ESC's work is on the negative side, power to the motor should ba a straight path from batt+ to the motor +.

Hope that makes sense...

Nice body!








Never thought I'd say that to a dude... :lol:

Genius! Thanks for the insight . . .

Perhaps 999 just lasts forvever


and ever...


Oh wait...



It's all mine, muahaha!


Ok, back to some meaningful posts...

oops... I just went and looked at the picture you referred to, and I see my answer in my previous post doesn't apply to your question...

RcSteve's answer a few posts back is correct... those aren't splices, he stripped the silicone insulation and replaced it with heat shrink to make it thinner.

That's right, its a way to fit 3 wires under the batteries. There is only one brand of wire that will do that without stripping and shrinkwrapping, that's the 16ga from Castle Creations, but it is too stiff and wicks solder too much for my liking :cool:

Ike wins! :lol:

...something :)