Do you have a link to them?

You would be surprised how I need to be reminded that I have PM. I need a big stick to hit me in the head to grab my attention. Maybe the moderators could have us sellect some kind of blinking option to allert us.

Mark, I don't have a real answer for you, but you could check out their website. I would imagine that the lower outside hole is the same as Asc.

bb

NOOOOO, I'm sure others have said this but I HAVE to BEG you not to get a Hitec servo. The only time a Hitec should be used is when you really don't care about centering the servo.

A drunk gerbil would be able to find center more often than a Hitec servo.

Hitec servos are garbage...

The hitech servo in my 12th has worked fine... but then it again it's sorta like cheap, knock-off brand guitars (like epiphone)-mostly junk but maybe one in a hundred or so is actually real good., maybe if you get one made on a tuesday as oppossed to on a friday when someone is drunk :lol: .

i need help
 

question guys

i just bought a 12L4 and i wanted to replace the front axle. i don't like using the e-clip to take out the front tires. any suggestion on what to use on that, i want something you can put a nut.

PSE, good axles no clips.

I'd recommend the CRC titanium threaded axles. Heres the link http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=4115 :)

...OR pick up the exact same axles (guess who makes 'em for CRC) directly from Lunsford Lunsford Ti axles for $3 less.

Bettery yet, Lunsford offers a complete Ti kit for the front end. $36.70 gets you their Ti axles, Punnisher Ti tie rods, Ti 6-32 camber turnbuckles and Ti kingpins. See it at Lunsford 1/12 front end kit

PLUS they're super-nice people to deal with. I figure CRC gets enough of my dough ('nuther $80 today...) so I like to spread it around a bit.

Scottrik

and if you order directly from Lunsford, grab a 4 pack of the 8-32 flat head screws for the front end. Get rid of those annoying phillips head screws.

Oh yeah...that too. You want the 1/2" long ones.

Scottrik
Still laughing my a$$ off about the drunk gerbil

12L4 MOTOR INSTALL
 

I just bought a new 12L4 and I was going to install the motor and I can not get it to fit correct. I can get in the pod area but when I tighten or try to tighten it down I can not get it to set correct. I am using a CO2 motor and I have no idea what I am doing wrong. It looks to me that the holes in the plate do not line up with the motor and the motor is hitting the T-Plate. I am using a 64 pitch 35 tooth with the stock spur gear. Is the motor can to big? I have been out of the hobby for over 3 years and I never had this problem with my last 12th scale. Did something change in the past 3 years? Can anyone give me ideas on what to do. Thanks!

.
 

that pinion seems kinda high

try to line it up with a pinion on it

i was told to start with a 25 tooth pinion with a 100t spur

i could be wrong but that pinion sounds like a monster

unless you will be at a track with a huge straight away in my eye's

You will need to take a dremel or file and bevel the edge of the t-bar to fit that big of pinion gear.

Hope that helps

12L4 Motor Install
 

In the AE instructions it tells me 35 pinion with the 100 spur for A stock motor starting point. They guys at the local track are also saying that is what they use. It is an avrage size track. I may be getting misinfomred by the guys at the track. I have not cut the tires at this time nor will I until I get my feet wet racing again and get a feel for racing again. If I need to go to a 25 that is fine but why does the AE instructions tell us to start with that if it is hard to fit? Please keep your help coming. THANKS!!!!!!!

if you have a hard time fitting a pinion i would run a smaller spur.the only time i run a 100 spur is in mod to allow for a bigger pinion for more efficient gear mesh.on my 19 turn motors i runn an 88/29.which stock motor are you running?