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Old 07-14-2006 | 07:16 AM
  #19321  
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Hi,

at the moment I'm thinking about starting 1/12th for the winter carpet season as I don't see much fun driving our TC rockets on a carpet track with rubber tires.

I looked at 3 cars:
Asso RC12L4
Yokomo RC12L4Y
CRC Carpet Knife 3.2

I know, two of them are T-Bar cars and one is a link car. Which one would you suggest for Mod and why?
I think the Yokomo and the CRC could be the best choices as both of them already have some hop-ups already installed (lowered pods,...). What do you think?
And which hop-ups would be recommend or even necessary.

Thanks
Cheers
Chris
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Old 07-14-2006 | 09:10 AM
  #19322  
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Originally Posted by speedy-932
Hi,

at the moment I'm thinking about starting 1/12th for the winter carpet season as I don't see much fun driving our TC rockets on a carpet track with rubber tires.

I looked at 3 cars:
Asso RC12L4
Yokomo RC12L4Y
CRC Carpet Knife 3.2

I know, two of them are T-Bar cars and one is a link car. Which one would you suggest for Mod and why?
I think the Yokomo and the CRC could be the best choices as both of them already have some hop-ups already installed (lowered pods,...). What do you think?
And which hop-ups would be recommend or even necessary.

Thanks
Cheers
Chris

The L4 and Carpet Knife are great on carpet. The Yokomo is an asphalt only car with a super flexy chassis. It is a real mess on carpet.

If you want a tricked out T-bar car look at the CRC T-Fource. If you get one just make sure you remove all the side spring stuff and run normal tweal screws with an AE .075" t-bar.
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Old 07-14-2006 | 09:33 AM
  #19323  
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If you're trying to decide between a t-bar and link car you really need to consider the track that you normally run on.

It's been my experience that it's much easier to get a link car to work on a bumpy track. The t-bar cars seem to still be really good on a smooth track.
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Old 07-14-2006 | 12:10 PM
  #19324  
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Originally Posted by CarlosG.
Did you check Jlap for the results from last weekends race?
31, 08:00....you almost got your 32. WOW David Hall 32, 08:14...you need to step it up See you in the moring and bring your canopy
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Old 07-14-2006 | 01:27 PM
  #19325  
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Originally Posted by Unregistered
If you're trying to decide between a t-bar and link car you really need to consider the track that you normally run on.

It's been my experience that it's much easier to get a link car to work on a bumpy track. The t-bar cars seem to still be really good on a smooth track.
Agreed-the Champs last year was very bumpy and the CRC 3.2r (and Rev4) were top of the field in stock, masters and Mod.

I love my T-fource though and since I have been playing with battery placement its become even better and opened up a whole new line of tunability.
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Old 07-14-2006 | 02:38 PM
  #19326  
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Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
There are great setups to be found for your L4 here. Excellent tips for building and optioning the car, as well.







Again, has anyone had any problems with wobbly, out of true fronts in the CRC High Rollers? I got 3 pairs this week and none of them run true (the wheel, not the tire).
Try them with the flanged bearings, this made mine better.

By the way, are you the same Apexspeed that runs the full size single seater race car board http://www.apexspeed.com/ ?
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Old 07-14-2006 | 02:43 PM
  #19327  
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Thanks for the tip—I'll try that.




And yes, I own and manage ApexSpeed.com.
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Old 07-14-2006 | 03:46 PM
  #19328  
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flanged bearings will make the wheel run true but will widen the track width of the car.i always try my best to get them running true and if they wont then i run a flanged bearing on the outside only and it does the trick.
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Old 07-14-2006 | 09:41 PM
  #19329  
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Protc3 - Are you ready for the duel...1/12th and 19T Sedan at ten paces
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Old 07-14-2006 | 09:47 PM
  #19330  
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two newbie questions for a 12l4 outdoor asphalt.

1. What is the rear wheelbase dimension. I'm using a 2nd hand car and noticed that the right side is shorter from the center hole on the bottom pod plate to the outside of the right side rear tire than from that same whole to the outer left side. That seems wrong. So I need to add shimms to the left side. But I need to know what my total rear wheelbase should be.

2. Does thicker dampler lube on the disks add or remove steering. I was told it just "flattens the car out, making more stable" I didn't know it did anything to the steering. I need less steering..and i put some old skool Bolink goo on there that pretty thick.

was that wrong?? I thought it would help for dealing with a transition from a banked oval to the flat infield.
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Old 07-14-2006 | 10:34 PM
  #19331  
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Originally Posted by RAL
two newbie questions for a 12l4 outdoor asphalt.

1. What is the rear wheelbase dimension. I'm using a 2nd hand car and noticed that the right side is shorter from the center hole on the bottom pod plate to the outside of the right side rear tire than from that same whole to the outer left side. That seems wrong. So I need to add shimms to the left side. But I need to know what my total rear wheelbase should be.

2. Does thicker dampler lube on the disks add or remove steering. I was told it just "flattens the car out, making more stable" I didn't know it did anything to the steering. I need less steering..and i put some old skool Bolink goo on there that pretty thick.

was that wrong?? I thought it would help for dealing with a transition from a banked oval to the flat infield.
Maximum width is 172 mm, and you are correct in that the measurement from center to wheel should be equal from side to side. You need to add shims to the right side or remove some from the left, or a combination of the two to get the full width centered. "bank to flat..." You must be running at SoCal

In general, anything that stiffens the rear adds steering. I'm not too experienced with discs but I would try lighter fluid on the discs. Perhaps someone else could suggest what weight might be good.
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Old 07-14-2006 | 10:56 PM
  #19332  
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Yes I am ODPURPS!!!!! And the traction isn't that great...we're running green rears with purple fronts (Paragon F&R). Some people are even running .24 springs in front to calm the cars down. Very flowing high speed strack with switchbacks. Any ideas for traction??
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Old 07-15-2006 | 01:42 AM
  #19333  
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Originally Posted by RAL
Yes I am ODPURPS!!!!! And the traction isn't that great...we're running green rears with purple fronts (Paragon F&R). Some people are even running .24 springs in front to calm the cars down. Very flowing high speed strack with switchbacks. Any ideas for traction??
The sealed surface at SoCal is similar to the one of our local tracks here in Ripon. It's weird that even though the track is sticky enough to pull your shoe off when you walk on it, the bite for 1/12th at Ripon is not very good. While greens or aquas worked well for stock last year, 19t doesn't seem to hook up with them this season. The best traction we've found is Wraps with Paragon or Niftech. When I ran at SoCal (once) greens were the ticket for 1/10th pan, but you should try the 2 stage for 1/12th. If you could get some bite you wouldn't need those .024s, but I know the feeling!
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Old 07-15-2006 | 01:57 AM
  #19334  
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Originally Posted by odpurple
The sealed surface at SoCal is similar to the one of our local tracks here in Ripon. It's weird that even though the track is sticky enough to pull your shoe off when you walk on it, the bite for 1/12th at Ripon is not very good. While greens or aquas worked well for stock last year, 19t doesn't seem to hook up with them this season. The best traction we've found is Wraps with Paragon or Niftech. When I ran at SoCal (once) greens were the ticket for 1/10th pan, but you should try the 2 stage for 1/12th. If you could get some bite you wouldn't need those .024s, but I know the feeling!
Thanks for the help. Yeah random 360's don't get you points for style I guess I will try some .024's. Who makes the best front end ride height shims?? I'm new to the 12th stuff. Thanks!
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Old 07-15-2006 | 02:20 AM
  #19335  
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I only know of one brand but man are they the bomb. The companies name is fiber lite (or light). They are carbon fiber double horeshoes that only require you loosen the front end screws to slide them in. I bought two sets from a guy at my track who put in a group buy for some of us at my LHS. I think he ordered so many of them because the shipping from england made them expensive to get here in the states. Sorry I can't tell you more about how to get them, as I too am new 1/12. GL.
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