almost everybody is out of stock on the conversions

I know DPowell has the chasis conversion for a thicker chassis. But I have tried to get just certain parts for the conversion and you can't get them from Hotbodies. I had my LHS become a Hotbodies dealer, that was last year around march, and still no parts have come in. I wanted back then the bottom pod plate and chassis. I think my lhs still has one kit left of the AH-12 for less than $100. I recommend if you get the conversion get the DPowell chassis conversion for the graphite pieces.

SP12M AE
 

Hey guys can I get a baseline setup for the SP12M AE, running on an asphalt parking lot track.

Thanks

I am not sure it is still being made. The Hara 12 car was...uh...challenging to get going fast with.

:lol: :lol: nice :lol:

Hi Guys,

I just posted this over in the Speedmerchant forum and wanted to share it here as well. I'm just a bit too excited about all this =)

I had a chance to run my Rev4.5 last night for the first time and I have to say, this is hands down the most amazing car on the market right now. Those of you who know me will agree that I am by no means an incredible wheel but last night I looked like a million bucks! I attached a few pictures of the car for you guys to check out and there's a bunch of little updates over the past year or so that really complement the kit. Bruce deserves a big pat on the back for taking an already proven winner and refining it to be an even better chassis.

First on my car is obviously the 4.5 conversion, the pod went together smoothly and the parts fit well. Overall it's the best innovation yet for the Rev.4. No more struggling to change motors and out of every 4-bolt pod design this one is by far the easiest to solder a motor into. Worth every penny!

Next is the rear tweak brace and large standoffs. I had purchased a kit some time ago and it included the standard tweak brace made of the same thickness carbon as the chassis. Bruce and company saw this part could exhibit flex and over time might be an area of concern. After talking to Bruce he mentioned the updated part which is made of a much thicker carbon so of course I jumped at the idea. Also on my car are the new large standoffs, talk about a SOLID rear end, the added size not only looks cool but it does lend extra support to this critical area of the chassis. If you've got an older car treat yourself with this setup, it's pretty cheap and worth it on the track.

Finally I got a bunch of the new tweak springs. Bruce wasn't kidding when he said these were more consistent and much higher in quality. From the moment you snap these on the retainer you can see the difference and they hang nearly perfect. Toss out the old painted springs and snag a few pairs of these as they are totally worth it.

Sorry for rambling on, but these tweaks all added up to some great runs for me last night at the local track. I went A LAP faster than my best after taking my time freshening the car up with a few new parts!

Nick

worlds are on carpet....and that kid Marc is running a CRC car....hhhmmmmm

Damn! I didn't know about the new standoffs. And I just placed an order, too. Guess I'll have to add to it!
Thanks Nick

The BMI DB-12 has been like that (wide open and easy to access) for 2 years.

1/12th CRC 3.2R Help!
 

Hello...
Just built and ran for the first time a CRC 3.2R last night...I'm new to 1/12th scale and need some advice...
How do I adjust ride height? It was different all around the car...I added shims to the front, moved the shock, up and down on the tweak screws...changed the rear pod axel holders...Where do I start first and how to proceed?

Any other set up tips would be great too!

Thanks in advance for the help!

Mark Payne's web site will be a great help for you:

http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

Ronald

You should check the ride height at three places; at the rear of the motor pod, at the end of the chassis (center of the car), and at the front.

Rear ride height is set by the rear axle bearing holders (ride height adjusters). Ride height adjusters from IRS and Xenon are helpful here.
Front ride height is set by shims under the suspension blocks. IRS and CRC make good shims for this.
Most racers set the chassis up so that the motor pod is parallel to the chassis (a straght line from front to rear). This is what you check at the end of the chassis in the middle of the car, and is set by the shock adjuster nut (by line of sight with the car fully loaded on the set up board).

CENTRAL CAL TWO DAY RACE
 

For the Cali guys. There will be a two day Summer fun race in the SLO area July 29th-30th. $35 bucks and you get a shirt if you reg before July 15th. We're trying to get enough entries to run 19t 12th. I raced the last two day they had and it was really fun. MASS traction parking lot surface. They run Oval there all the time and the cars are stuck. Lets make sure there's enough for a class!! :D Track pics in the photo gallery. No Roar or Norrca membership req.

http://www.fastlapslo.com/CentralCoa...ceDazeInfo.htm

I was looking at some pictures on the recent 2006 ROAR Nationals and found a picture of this pit, anybody know who that is? Is this odpurple with that NEAT pit? If not, anybody know who he is so I can find out where he got that set up board???