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Thanks. I am 99.99% sure I have the #113 light grey one. Just a bit of play on a JR 3550 servo (plastic gear). The only other possible thing was I was running 1.64" grey rears!! It might have been going slightly tail out onto the back straight-though that seems unlikely on carpet/stock motor, but maybe!!ON the plastic gear 3550 its very important to not tighten the servo saver down tight onto it or it definately will not center and I am sure mine is just snug on the screw. Maybe thats another possibility-I need to snug the screw just a bit more to eliminate the play.
Tech Regular
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 462
From: MI
Originally Posted by rayhuang
My T-fource sometimes feels as if it wont recenter after a fast hard corner.
You can try two things, first try a new t-bar (preferrably one from a different batch). Don't over tighten the tweak screws on the t-bar because that can cause the car to tweak funny and wander.
The normal Kimbrough saver is actually kinda weak and it can wear out. You might want to try a new one even if the one you have is new. You can also get the "mid size" saver. Get the one that doesn't have holes and drill your own to make it similar to the grey one. The Gate had the mid size savers when I was there.
FB
Originally Posted by Unregistered
Ray,
You can try two things, first try a new t-bar (preferrably one from a different batch). Don't over tighten the tweak screws on the t-bar because that can cause the car to tweak funny and wander.
The normal Kimbrough saver is actually kinda weak and it can wear out. You might want to try a new one even if the one you have is new. You can also get the "mid size" saver. Get the one that doesn't have holes and drill your own to make it similar to the grey one. The Gate had the mid size savers when I was there.
FB
You can try two things, first try a new t-bar (preferrably one from a different batch). Don't over tighten the tweak screws on the t-bar because that can cause the car to tweak funny and wander.
The normal Kimbrough saver is actually kinda weak and it can wear out. You might want to try a new one even if the one you have is new. You can also get the "mid size" saver. Get the one that doesn't have holes and drill your own to make it similar to the grey one. The Gate had the mid size savers when I was there.
FB
I ran 96 and the spur required a cleaning after every run
IN retrospect-I was not able to get through the chicane onto the back stright worth a darn all day-I think the 1.64 were terrible there. I was eyeing a pair of 1.74" tires for the third qual-and then decided it would be different handling to deal with so stuck with the tiny tires!! IN retrospect-I wish I had run the 1.74 or cut them to 1.68 and ran them.
Dont u guys find 12th tires expensive? I mean i run Jaco for sedan and i can get them for 5$ a pair less then the jaco 12th tires. Both are considered exotic compounds yet the smaller tires cost more. I find that in TC you can run a tire from 60mm right down to the rim, but in 12th you have to buzz them down so small to start and they dont last.
What are the hard core 12th racers doing for tires? Special place to get good prices? ITs a topic i may start all its own but dont you all feel that the most consumable part of racing is drastically over priced considering the volume racers go through?
Best price i can find locally is 20$ a pair CND. Our dollar is about 88cents to the US dollar so about 17$US is this typical for you guys? For touring jacos i can get them for 14$CND wich is easier to swallow considering i get more foam and plastic then a 12th gives me.
Am i just a cheap whiner? LOL
I know u got to pay to play but i like to save when i can, i wont even get into what i pay for rubber tires!
What are the hard core 12th racers doing for tires? Special place to get good prices? ITs a topic i may start all its own but dont you all feel that the most consumable part of racing is drastically over priced considering the volume racers go through?
Best price i can find locally is 20$ a pair CND. Our dollar is about 88cents to the US dollar so about 17$US is this typical for you guys? For touring jacos i can get them for 14$CND wich is easier to swallow considering i get more foam and plastic then a 12th gives me.
Am i just a cheap whiner? LOL
I know u got to pay to play but i like to save when i can, i wont even get into what i pay for rubber tires!
Joel,
Its a hard call what to say about foam tire prices. I have gotten to the point where I cut my tires brand new down to whatever size I think my car works best at. I just dont see value in starting them at 1.90" for example and having my car not handle as well as it could till they wear down. Chances are they will be peeling off the rim long before they get to the optimum size. The side loading on the cars now is very high. I am sure a stock 12th is as fast as a mod 12th was years ago. With new battery tech-were driving the piss out of them for 8-minutes now too. GOne are the days of 3/4 throttle in stock for 7 minutes.
For sure if you your budget is as important as ultimate performnace-there are definate ways to squeeze more life out of your tires. Use a harder compound or a more exotic blned that usually have less grip, but longer life. Cut your wheel wells bigger so in crashes your less liely to cut a tire. Drive less aggresively and make sure your set-ups are always good, meaning not tight because tight cars wear out fronts and tear apart rears. Also-and I am NOT one to preach not hitting anything, but drive more conservative lines.Thats about it for me,
Ray
Its a hard call what to say about foam tire prices. I have gotten to the point where I cut my tires brand new down to whatever size I think my car works best at. I just dont see value in starting them at 1.90" for example and having my car not handle as well as it could till they wear down. Chances are they will be peeling off the rim long before they get to the optimum size. The side loading on the cars now is very high. I am sure a stock 12th is as fast as a mod 12th was years ago. With new battery tech-were driving the piss out of them for 8-minutes now too. GOne are the days of 3/4 throttle in stock for 7 minutes.
For sure if you your budget is as important as ultimate performnace-there are definate ways to squeeze more life out of your tires. Use a harder compound or a more exotic blned that usually have less grip, but longer life. Cut your wheel wells bigger so in crashes your less liely to cut a tire. Drive less aggresively and make sure your set-ups are always good, meaning not tight because tight cars wear out fronts and tear apart rears. Also-and I am NOT one to preach not hitting anything, but drive more conservative lines.Thats about it for me,
Ray
If your cars is setup well tire wear can be really good. On asphalt at my home track I only lose .020" in diameter per run (fronts and rears wear equally on my car). For club races I start at 1.75" front and 1.85" rear and run them until the racing foam on the wraps are paper thin.
For big races I start at 1.70" and 1.80" and the car is dialed when the tires hit 1.68" and 1.78"
For big races I start at 1.70" and 1.80" and the car is dialed when the tires hit 1.68" and 1.78"
Tech Addict
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 518
From: thomasville,nc
thanks for all the awesome set-up tips y'all! car was very good in practice! (altho i still had the in-line axles on it
). had a great time blasting around the durham track with mike lufaso!! that guy is SUPER FAST and killer nice! hate i missed the oppertunity to race with him. but i still learned a LOT!
hope he makes it back.....i'm lookin to give him a run for his $$$$$
richard M....when will sandhills be ready? can't wait to hit the rug!!!
). had a great time blasting around the durham track with mike lufaso!! that guy is SUPER FAST and killer nice! hate i missed the oppertunity to race with him. but i still learned a LOT!hope he makes it back.....i'm lookin to give him a run for his $$$$$
richard M....when will sandhills be ready? can't wait to hit the rug!!!
Tech Master
iTrader: (45)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,586
From: Lutz, FL
Joel
Check out http://www.bsr-racing.com/foam/12thscale.html his SRP is 17.00 and this place http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...837d1ff5a038cf
Sells BSR tires for $13 a pair and it is the same quality as a JACO tire. On high bite carpet I run blk front and white rears on low traction I run dbl purple fronts and white rears. Good luck racing.
-Monti-
Check out http://www.bsr-racing.com/foam/12thscale.html his SRP is 17.00 and this place http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...837d1ff5a038cf
Sells BSR tires for $13 a pair and it is the same quality as a JACO tire. On high bite carpet I run blk front and white rears on low traction I run dbl purple fronts and white rears. Good luck racing.
-Monti-
Joel - sounds like your getting your pom fritz ripped when it comes to 12th tires. they should not be more than TC tires. checkout the following
www.kthobbies.com
www.speedtechrc.com
www.rc4less.com
www.kthobbies.com
www.speedtechrc.com
www.rc4less.com
Tech Addict
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 547
Originally Posted by Joel Lagace
Dude, its a photo copied mess. I would got to RC10.com and download an 12L4 manual, even though its a different car it would likely help you build your car just as fast! LOL
I cant complain i bought the car and for the price it was great, but man it would have been great to get a manual much nicer step by step build process with bags used in chronological order. And hey how about a page on initial setup? An info page on tire diameter?, unforutunaly pan car racers are left to fend for them selves.... This would all change if XRAY produced a 12th scale
I cant complain i bought the car and for the price it was great, but man it would have been great to get a manual much nicer step by step build process with bags used in chronological order. And hey how about a page on initial setup? An info page on tire diameter?, unforutunaly pan car racers are left to fend for them selves.... This would all change if XRAY produced a 12th scale

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/support/support.html
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 61
The time has come to retire my trusty, and heavy duratrax esc. what are peoples opinions on these esc's.
qc2 small, light
gtx small, light (without the capacitor)
sphere competition bigger, heavier, but with brushless capabilities
do all of these require a capacitor for 4 cell? does the sphere require the heatsink for brushed use? from what I understand the qc3 is pretty much the same as the qc2, with lipo capability.
How are people mounting their servos flat and still running a servo saver? mine (older digi ko) will need to be shimmed up 1/8" to clear, is there a certain servo saver that is smaller?
Thanks
qc2 small, light
gtx small, light (without the capacitor)
sphere competition bigger, heavier, but with brushless capabilities
do all of these require a capacitor for 4 cell? does the sphere require the heatsink for brushed use? from what I understand the qc3 is pretty much the same as the qc2, with lipo capability.
How are people mounting their servos flat and still running a servo saver? mine (older digi ko) will need to be shimmed up 1/8" to clear, is there a certain servo saver that is smaller?
Thanks
Originally Posted by snowyelan
The time has come to retire my trusty, and heavy duratrax esc. what are peoples opinions on these esc's.
qc2 small, light
gtx small, light (without the capacitor)
sphere competition bigger, heavier, but with brushless capabilities
do all of these require a capacitor for 4 cell? does the sphere require the heatsink for brushed use? from what I understand the qc3 is pretty much the same as the qc2, with lipo capability.
How are people mounting their servos flat and still running a servo saver? mine (older digi ko) will need to be shimmed up 1/8" to clear, is there a certain servo saver that is smaller?
Thanks
qc2 small, light
gtx small, light (without the capacitor)
sphere competition bigger, heavier, but with brushless capabilities
do all of these require a capacitor for 4 cell? does the sphere require the heatsink for brushed use? from what I understand the qc3 is pretty much the same as the qc2, with lipo capability.
How are people mounting their servos flat and still running a servo saver? mine (older digi ko) will need to be shimmed up 1/8" to clear, is there a certain servo saver that is smaller?
Thanks
If you mount the servo flat you want it as low as possible (right on the deck). Whether you use shoo goo or mounts you will need to grind a divot in the chassis to clear the servo saver.
I could never get rid of my novak atom, i love that little thing, use it in micro and in 12th. That matched with my xxl is the SH**
Thanks for the info on tires guys. AGain im mostly bitching about how much tires are, in not a hack thats killing a set every race day, but I just feel we get hit pretty hard on tire prices considering the amount that a typical racer will go through.
Thanks for the info on tires guys. AGain im mostly bitching about how much tires are, in not a hack thats killing a set every race day, but I just feel we get hit pretty hard on tire prices considering the amount that a typical racer will go through.



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