It is usually the lower arms at the pivot ball that cause me the most problems. I have seen that GPM has alm. lower arms that use the upper plastic pivot ball mounts, witch are cheaper to replace . does any one have any experience with them?

is driving a 12th scale any different than driving a 10th scake. also has anyone have luck w/ the CEFX C12?

Just grind you arms down :lol:

so theres going to be a link between the lower arm and the pivot mount which will strip easily from a collision.

i tried doing my own but always comes out uneven. id rather pay a lil extra then having a +10 camber :lol:

Steve,

I'm right with you, I'm looking forward to the next race too. My car was not that good on the final (or all day even), I really need some ideas for tightening up my front end it's horrendously sloppy. OD mentioned something about Bud's parts in the front end and I did find the BRP web site but they had nothing that I could see that would be usefull. Car was slow too I think my stock motors are getting tired, they are about 8 months old now and it was easy to see on the track. As you can tell from my fast lap time, things were not optimal for me. That race win was purely luck, I had a good start and rode it all the way home. All things being equal, the men to beat right now are JRRC and Crashby, but I'll take the luck when I can get it. :D

Please anyone, suggestions for reduced slop on the new style associated front end would be welcome, I'm running it on a Rev 4.

Chris

The droop I am talking about is really the length of the center shock. If the shock is long then you will have droop if it is shorter then the amount of droop is less.

If you pick up your car from the front end and look to see if your rear pod is lower. You would have to hold the car let's say with your left hand looking at the car from it's side at eye level. Look at the rear pod to see if it droops lower than your main chassis. That is what the droop is.

More droop in my case gives me less on power steering. An almost level rear pod in relation to the main chassis will give you more on power steering.

Let me know if how it works or if there is the other things that I mentioned earlier that may cause your loose car.

Picco,

Interesting info there, this weekend I found myself adjusting the center shock spring tension for a couple of races until I realised one of the ball sockets was unscrewing. i must admit I did not pay much attension to the change in handling, I'll have to pay attention to that.

Chris.

Thanks for the info picco007; that bit of info is very useful indeed :nod:

You may just have to replace the majority of the parts in the front end. Sometimes just replacing the balls in the upper eyelet and the lower A arm will eliminate most of the slop. When I looked at your front end, it looks like you may have to replace the steering block as well. Niftech makes bronze balls for the upper eyelet and the lower A arm and RC4Less also has the balls that are Teflon coated. I have not used the stock plastic kit balls in years. Start with new balls and new steering blocks.

The best way to take the slop out of a Rev.4 front end is to run the old school setup :nod:

Hi Crashby,

Yes you are probably right, I have replaced the lower steering blocks which has helped with up/down play and I have got some upper eyelets to change. I need to pick up some of the balls for the eyelet though as those ones are plastic, The lower ones are anod alum but they still don't feel good. I'll have to sort something out. RC4less may be good Niftech can be difficult to deal with even though they do the best stuff.

Chris

Nick,

I have a rev 4 with the old school front end, it isn't working for me right now.

Chris

Is there any 1/12th scale racing in Orange county Ca.

The old school front end is dialed on the rev. 4 for big races where there is alot of bite, however for club racing it doesnt always have enough steering. There is a problem with the mold, that not every arm is molded perfect left to right, sometimes one has a degree more castor or camber than the other, however you really cant tell any difference on the track, and if you are that dedicated then you can shim it out if you really want. Although like any plastic part it does wear, i have run the same arms since the carpet nats last year and they are still good. The only play i really get is un dampened up travel however i just use motor shims to take it out.