What are you guys using for receiver packs these days? Anything cool and new that maybe lasts all day? Thanks.

track down Todd Hodge, he had a lipo receiver pack from VXR in his 1/12 car at cleveland

I noticed a discussion on this thread about the number of diff balls, and people commenting that more was better. The numbers that were mentioned were 6 or 8. I just rebuilt my diff and previously had 6 diff balls. I'm using a kimbrough spur that has holes for the small or large diff ring. i have the large diff ring and had 6 balls each with a blank hole left in between. So when i rebuilt I used 12 balls. Is this better or should i stick with 6?

it is kind of personal preference.

six is less rotating mass so lighter diff, but 12 seams to make the diff a little smoother and seams to not need rebuilds a frequent

thats why i use 12 ceramic nitride balls. smooth as a butter, light as a feather. the best of both worlds.

me too :)

me three.

How are you guys tuning your Epic roar stocks for 12th scale. I was told to use two green sprins, but I am not getting the numbers that I like. Also I have tried F brushes, Putnum and 767's. Seem like the 767's are working best in 12th scale. Any suggestions, I need more motor to hide lack of skill :cool:

Red/green springs and 767s. On my motor checker (with comm cut about halfway), it is reving at 28,500 rpm. All rpm motor. Using pinion that is two teeth less than my typical Monsters are geared.

i am running lightspeed 3910 with purple\purple and gearing about the same, 2 teeth from a monster. but this is the only roar stock that likes purple\purple that I have. the others are red\green.

I have found at least for the 3910s that they light to have the serations. so I reserate the brush and have run the same brush for 4 race weekends now.

Please, please, please tell me that is @ 5V :confused:

So I have been told that I need to ca the sidewalls of the 12th scale fronts and rears but how much of the sidewall to I need to glue and what is the best way to do this?

Mark

I true my tires and round the edges then mount them up on the car. In the rear I take the pinion off and rotate the axle while the nozzle of a CA bottle is just touching the surface of the side wall. I tiny squeeze to get the glue flowing is all it takes. Capillary action with draw out the CA you need to coat the side wall. Start at the rim an spiral out to where you rounded the tire. All you need is a little bit. Your side wall should look matte black not shiny from the rim up to half of the radius where you rounded the tires.

If your side walls look shiny put them on the truer and sand off the CA and start over. Shiny side wall are too thick/hard and will crack and chunk in crashes. Matte black side wall are still flexible but they have a protective CA crust to reduce chunking that reduces traction and make the car nicer to drive.

yea take it from me.... shiny is bad. one of my rears a cunked like crazy after the first run after i CA'ed them.... well there goes 20 bucks :cry:

dose anty one no where to get old 1/12 scale ,associated parts.older then the L3.not shear of the tipe.