Kyosho TF-6
11-28-2011, 11:56 AM
#256
Tech Rookie
I´m drove last Sasion a Schumacher Mi4CX and we work a lot with the hex and flex in chassis.
So when understand that, the Car with long arms get better, stability in to the corner. And give more Steering corner exit.
I saw on the setup sheet from Chrissi Krapp, ETS round 1 Muehlheim.
he change that.
I get the car this week and thats give me new motivation. I´m so fucking curious when I get the first rollout next Weekend.
cool thanks boys...
11-28-2011, 03:48 PM
#257
i emailed chris dad for the kit and extra parts but no answer back, and i,m not on facebokk and do not care for it, so how else would i order this car from him, thanks
11-28-2011, 10:28 PM
#259
11-29-2011, 08:59 AM
#261
Tech Rookie
It all looks pretty good, that´s all I wanted for the new Summer Saison. New Option parts. Yessss...
12-04-2011, 12:36 AM
#263
Sorry guys, I hate to bring it to you but there's been a little misunderstanding..
The gear diff is NOT included in the special action price. So its:
- TF6 kit
- Lipo chassis
- Lipo upperdeck
For 499 euro's.
Its possible to order the gear diff with the package too. Will cost you somewhere about 30 or 40 euro's..
When interested you can either contact me ( [email protected] ) or Chissi's dad directly ( [email protected] ).
Please excuse me for the inconvenience.
The gear diff is NOT included in the special action price. So its:
- TF6 kit
- Lipo chassis
- Lipo upperdeck
For 499 euro's.
Its possible to order the gear diff with the package too. Will cost you somewhere about 30 or 40 euro's..
When interested you can either contact me ( [email protected] ) or Chissi's dad directly ( [email protected] ).
Please excuse me for the inconvenience.
12-09-2011, 11:24 AM
#264
Help tf-55!
I was told that most races dont allow 200mm bodies, but there was a way using the extra suspension holders that come with the kit to make the tf-5s 190mm, can anyone confirm this?
If not can I by the tf-6 or tf-5 chassis (upper and lower deck) and make my tf-5s 190mm?
Also will universals help at all with the spool chatter issue?
Does anyone know of any lcds or dcj tjat fit the tf-5s?
12-14-2011, 10:13 AM
#265
I have now emailed both people on the thread to get the kyosho tf6 kriss dad and vasco, can some one please let them know to check their email or pm me on here, I want to purchase a kit, but cannot get a hold of either one thanks
12-14-2011, 11:39 AM
#266
Registered User
Zaraz,
I think something has gone wrong. I check my email many times a day but no email from you... neither in my PM on this site.
What I'll tell you when you email me is to email Christophers dad ( HJoachim Krapp -> [email protected] ) and order your kit over there.
Maybe you should try to email HJoachim again, he normally replies to email very rapidly! If this doesn't work just look him up on Facebook ( http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000497454764 ) and contact him from there on.
I hope this will help you out. If not please let me know.
I think something has gone wrong. I check my email many times a day but no email from you... neither in my PM on this site.
What I'll tell you when you email me is to email Christophers dad ( HJoachim Krapp -> [email protected] ) and order your kit over there.
Maybe you should try to email HJoachim again, he normally replies to email very rapidly! If this doesn't work just look him up on Facebook ( http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000497454764 ) and contact him from there on.
I hope this will help you out. If not please let me know.
12-14-2011, 01:20 PM
#267
Are you guys stripping rear belts much? I'm getting maybe 7-8 runs and then they strip, which isn't too bad except there's no real warning signs before they go so it can happen at not ideal times. My pulleys are all perfect so it's not a wear issue. I think maybe we could use a metal pulley option 
12-14-2011, 01:46 PM
#268
Registered User
When running modified? Snapping the rear belt perhaps?
If this is the case this is most likely because of wrong belt tension in combination with the usage of the geardiff. Always make sure your front belt is set a little bit tighter then the rear one, so when you accelerate the front wheels start to move first and few micro secs later the rear wheels begin to move.
If the front belt is set a little looser then the rear all the power will be transferred to the back of the car first when you accelerate and will put the rear belt under massive tension, which will eventually snap.
The correct belt tension settings should also make your car a little more stable when accelerating for the obvious reason
If this is the case this is most likely because of wrong belt tension in combination with the usage of the geardiff. Always make sure your front belt is set a little bit tighter then the rear one, so when you accelerate the front wheels start to move first and few micro secs later the rear wheels begin to move.
If the front belt is set a little looser then the rear all the power will be transferred to the back of the car first when you accelerate and will put the rear belt under massive tension, which will eventually snap.
The correct belt tension settings should also make your car a little more stable when accelerating for the obvious reason
12-14-2011, 02:16 PM
#269
so contacted him again lets see if i get a reply, thanks
12-15-2011, 12:39 AM
#270
When running modified? Snapping the rear belt perhaps?
If this is the case this is most likely because of wrong belt tension in combination with the usage of the geardiff. Always make sure your front belt is set a little bit tighter then the rear one, so when you accelerate the front wheels start to move first and few micro secs later the rear wheels begin to move.
If the front belt is set a little looser then the rear all the power will be transferred to the back of the car first when you accelerate and will put the rear belt under massive tension, which will eventually snap.
The correct belt tension settings should also make your car a little more stable when accelerating for the obvious reason
If this is the case this is most likely because of wrong belt tension in combination with the usage of the geardiff. Always make sure your front belt is set a little bit tighter then the rear one, so when you accelerate the front wheels start to move first and few micro secs later the rear wheels begin to move.
If the front belt is set a little looser then the rear all the power will be transferred to the back of the car first when you accelerate and will put the rear belt under massive tension, which will eventually snap.
The correct belt tension settings should also make your car a little more stable when accelerating for the obvious reason
When we started running gear diffs in the 416 we started breaking belts and I found having a tight rear belt was the way to go