Loose Belt?
#16
ok thanks then i was running too loose before
#17
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
OK
tighten the diff until you can't tighten any more (A bit more then snug, not to tight you'll snap the screw/allen) then loosen it 1 turn. 1 and 1/2 at max
after that
break the diff in for a couple minutes with a drill (not to fast, its important not to get the diff hot or even warm) If your running the standard/metal outdrives. If your running the light weight/plastic outdrives then be carefull when using a drill or just drive it around for 2 packs
then repeat the first step
Also i noticed that the spring in the diff will eventually get bad and the diff will either be way to tight or way to loose.. It's like the sweet spot will no longer be there. So that might be somthing to keep in mind also.
tighten the diff until you can't tighten any more (A bit more then snug, not to tight you'll snap the screw/allen) then loosen it 1 turn. 1 and 1/2 at max
after that
break the diff in for a couple minutes with a drill (not to fast, its important not to get the diff hot or even warm) If your running the standard/metal outdrives. If your running the light weight/plastic outdrives then be carefull when using a drill or just drive it around for 2 packs
then repeat the first step
Also i noticed that the spring in the diff will eventually get bad and the diff will either be way to tight or way to loose.. It's like the sweet spot will no longer be there. So that might be somthing to keep in mind also.
#20
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
sorry now that i read what i wrote i sounded a bit like a dumb @$$
i meant to say tighten it tell its snug then back it off 1 -1 1/2 turns
in my 415msxx i ran a yokomo diff in the front and the tamiya diff was way easier to set. that might be due to tamiya uses a nice thrust bearing that can't be taken apart (0ne little thing that looks like a complete bearing)compared to the yokomo which uses 2 thick little washers and and some bearing balls, the yokomo i always had to set by slowly tighting it tell it stopped slipping
i meant to say tighten it tell its snug then back it off 1 -1 1/2 turns
in my 415msxx i ran a yokomo diff in the front and the tamiya diff was way easier to set. that might be due to tamiya uses a nice thrust bearing that can't be taken apart (0ne little thing that looks like a complete bearing)compared to the yokomo which uses 2 thick little washers and and some bearing balls, the yokomo i always had to set by slowly tighting it tell it stopped slipping
#21
Belts will skip under brakes before they'll skip under acceleration because the forces are much greater under braking. So there's your telltale sign. By the time they skip under acceleration they're way too loose.
To check for proper diff setup, when I was running stock brushed, I would just grab both wheels at the end of the car I want to check and turning them check that the diff doesn't slip before the motor turns. (That worked because brushed motors are difficult to turn. A brushless motor will spin freely.) Tighten the diff in small increments until this happens. Then I give the front diff one more turn and I am set.
This is not an bulletproof receipe, given that gearing has a play in it, but it is a pretty good indication. of the state of your diffs.
A more relevant check is to lay the car on the track and hold it by the bumper so it can't go and give it a bit of throttle. If it can not spin all four wheels, your diffs are slipping and that's exactly what they'll do when you accelerate. Again, tighten progressively as required until no more slipping takes place.
To check for proper diff setup, when I was running stock brushed, I would just grab both wheels at the end of the car I want to check and turning them check that the diff doesn't slip before the motor turns. (That worked because brushed motors are difficult to turn. A brushless motor will spin freely.) Tighten the diff in small increments until this happens. Then I give the front diff one more turn and I am set.
This is not an bulletproof receipe, given that gearing has a play in it, but it is a pretty good indication. of the state of your diffs.
A more relevant check is to lay the car on the track and hold it by the bumper so it can't go and give it a bit of throttle. If it can not spin all four wheels, your diffs are slipping and that's exactly what they'll do when you accelerate. Again, tighten progressively as required until no more slipping takes place.
Last edited by niznai; 12-23-2009 at 11:01 AM.
#22
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
OK
tighten the diff until you can't tighten any more (A bit more then snug, not to tight you'll snap the screw/allen) then loosen it 1 turn. 1 and 1/2 at max
after that
break the diff in for a couple minutes with a drill (not to fast, its important not to get the diff hot or even warm) If your running the standard/metal outdrives. If your running the light weight/plastic outdrives then be carefull when using a drill or just drive it around for 2 packs
then repeat the first step
Also i noticed that the spring in the diff will eventually get bad and the diff will either be way to tight or way to loose.. It's like the sweet spot will no longer be there. So that might be somthing to keep in mind also.
tighten the diff until you can't tighten any more (A bit more then snug, not to tight you'll snap the screw/allen) then loosen it 1 turn. 1 and 1/2 at max
after that
break the diff in for a couple minutes with a drill (not to fast, its important not to get the diff hot or even warm) If your running the standard/metal outdrives. If your running the light weight/plastic outdrives then be carefull when using a drill or just drive it around for 2 packs
then repeat the first step
Also i noticed that the spring in the diff will eventually get bad and the diff will either be way to tight or way to loose.. It's like the sweet spot will no longer be there. So that might be somthing to keep in mind also.
Last edited by Cpt.America; 12-23-2009 at 11:11 AM.
#23
Tech Elite
iTrader: (96)
Let's start with belt. LOL
This is how my belt is tensioned, 2 different cars.
JRX-S Type R This one runs somewhat tight belt since there are no tensioners.
E4RS/FS sumthing This one runs loose belt but there are tensioners that prevent skipping unless i brake 100% or accel with crazy torque.
Next you check ur diffs if they are slipping. How i do it with my cars is Hold the main belt and 1 tire Down, then try to rotate the opposite tire, it should not rotate. I think thats how you test it. Now ont force it to rotate LOL
Other variables are gearing it down smaller piniong this will give you punch less top speed.
Or Gearing it up for top speed but motor will take longer to get there.
Then you have ESC timing you can advanced the timing to motor start cooking it. =D
Check if you transmitter has throttle control/Punch control of some sort turn it off.
So it doesnt delay the punch.
This is how my belt is tensioned, 2 different cars.
JRX-S Type R This one runs somewhat tight belt since there are no tensioners.
E4RS/FS sumthing This one runs loose belt but there are tensioners that prevent skipping unless i brake 100% or accel with crazy torque.
Next you check ur diffs if they are slipping. How i do it with my cars is Hold the main belt and 1 tire Down, then try to rotate the opposite tire, it should not rotate. I think thats how you test it. Now ont force it to rotate LOL
Other variables are gearing it down smaller piniong this will give you punch less top speed.
Or Gearing it up for top speed but motor will take longer to get there.
Then you have ESC timing you can advanced the timing to motor start cooking it. =D
Check if you transmitter has throttle control/Punch control of some sort turn it off.
So it doesnt delay the punch.
#24
I would think about:
THR end point on the radio
calibration between the radio and ESC
ESC profile/punch control
binding drivetrain
drivetrain differences like pulley vs gear transmission ratios (are they different between the 2 cars you mentioned?)
is your FDR a good one?
THR end point on the radio
calibration between the radio and ESC
ESC profile/punch control
binding drivetrain
drivetrain differences like pulley vs gear transmission ratios (are they different between the 2 cars you mentioned?)
is your FDR a good one?
#25
Tech Elite
iTrader: (96)
Oh i am not the OP lol
I just posted how a belt looks tensioned.
Since we still havent determined if his belt is loose or not.
My cars run Fine ^^ Love em can easily keep up with other shaftys.
Today i get my first shaft drive though ROFL
Also calibrate Transmitter to ESC to make sure you actually have full throttle set up.
I just posted how a belt looks tensioned.
Since we still havent determined if his belt is loose or not.
My cars run Fine ^^ Love em can easily keep up with other shaftys.
Today i get my first shaft drive though ROFL
Also calibrate Transmitter to ESC to make sure you actually have full throttle set up.
#26
thanks for the response, I guess I'll have to try the tighter diff the next time I'm at the track. Probably after the new year