R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-22-2009, 07:57 PM   #16
jcr
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Toronto
Posts: 446
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by trerc View Post
Run your diff loose as you can without it slipping. To check take a wrench or whatever and stick thru one of the holes it the spur so it can't move and try to move the rear wheels, they should not slip easily. It will likely need readjusted after you run a few laps.
ok thanks then i was running too loose before
jcr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2009, 08:00 PM   #17
Tech Adept
 
team jeremiah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Forest Lake, Minnesota
Posts: 189
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

OK

tighten the diff until you can't tighten any more (A bit more then snug, not to tight you'll snap the screw/allen) then loosen it 1 turn. 1 and 1/2 at max

after that

break the diff in for a couple minutes with a drill (not to fast, its important not to get the diff hot or even warm) If your running the standard/metal outdrives. If your running the light weight/plastic outdrives then be carefull when using a drill or just drive it around for 2 packs

then repeat the first step

Also i noticed that the spring in the diff will eventually get bad and the diff will either be way to tight or way to loose.. It's like the sweet spot will no longer be there. So that might be somthing to keep in mind also.
team jeremiah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2009, 08:03 PM   #18
Tech Master
 
trerc's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,821
Trader Rating: 89 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by team jeremiah View Post
OK

tighten the diff until you can't tighten any more (A bit more then snug, not to tight you'll snap the screw/allen) then loosen it 1 turn. 1 and 1/2 at max
You never wanna tighten a diff that tight.
__________________
If it smells burnt up.. it's more than likely hot.. you don't have to touch it..
trerc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2009, 08:09 PM   #19
Tech Adept
 
team jeremiah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Forest Lake, Minnesota
Posts: 189
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by trerc View Post
You never wanna tighten a diff that tight.
well i noticed with the TA04 diffs that for some reason that works the best, . I have tried to just slowly tighten it tell there was no slip but then after a couple laps it would be loose again.

Last edited by team jeremiah; 12-22-2009 at 08:16 PM. Reason: cuz i'm stupid
team jeremiah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2009, 08:28 PM   #20
Tech Adept
 
team jeremiah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Forest Lake, Minnesota
Posts: 189
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

sorry now that i read what i wrote i sounded a bit like a dumb @$$

i meant to say tighten it tell its snug then back it off 1 -1 1/2 turns

in my 415msxx i ran a yokomo diff in the front and the tamiya diff was way easier to set. that might be due to tamiya uses a nice thrust bearing that can't be taken apart (0ne little thing that looks like a complete bearing)compared to the yokomo which uses 2 thick little washers and and some bearing balls, the yokomo i always had to set by slowly tighting it tell it stopped slipping
team jeremiah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2009, 12:32 AM   #21
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,940
Default

Belts will skip under brakes before they'll skip under acceleration because the forces are much greater under braking. So there's your telltale sign. By the time they skip under acceleration they're way too loose.

To check for proper diff setup, when I was running stock brushed, I would just grab both wheels at the end of the car I want to check and turning them check that the diff doesn't slip before the motor turns. (That worked because brushed motors are difficult to turn. A brushless motor will spin freely.) Tighten the diff in small increments until this happens. Then I give the front diff one more turn and I am set.

This is not an bulletproof receipe, given that gearing has a play in it, but it is a pretty good indication. of the state of your diffs.

A more relevant check is to lay the car on the track and hold it by the bumper so it can't go and give it a bit of throttle. If it can not spin all four wheels, your diffs are slipping and that's exactly what they'll do when you accelerate. Again, tighten progressively as required until no more slipping takes place.
__________________
Team Greasy Weasel

The best upgrade to any car is some driver skill.

Last edited by niznai; 12-23-2009 at 12:01 PM.
niznai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2009, 11:57 AM   #22
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,081
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by team jeremiah View Post
OK

tighten the diff until you can't tighten any more (A bit more then snug, not to tight you'll snap the screw/allen) then loosen it 1 turn. 1 and 1/2 at max

after that

break the diff in for a couple minutes with a drill (not to fast, its important not to get the diff hot or even warm) If your running the standard/metal outdrives. If your running the light weight/plastic outdrives then be carefull when using a drill or just drive it around for 2 packs

then repeat the first step

Also i noticed that the spring in the diff will eventually get bad and the diff will either be way to tight or way to loose.. It's like the sweet spot will no longer be there. So that might be somthing to keep in mind also.
HORRIBLE advice... tighten all the way? use a drill? please stop.
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -

Last edited by Cpt.America; 12-23-2009 at 12:11 PM.
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2009, 01:52 PM   #23
Tech Elite
 
iPearl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 2,889
Trader Rating: 96 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to iPearl Send a message via MSN to iPearl
Default

Let's start with belt. LOL
This is how my belt is tensioned, 2 different cars.
JRX-S Type R This one runs somewhat tight belt since there are no tensioners.
E4RS/FS sumthing This one runs loose belt but there are tensioners that prevent skipping unless i brake 100% or accel with crazy torque.

Next you check ur diffs if they are slipping. How i do it with my cars is Hold the main belt and 1 tire Down, then try to rotate the opposite tire, it should not rotate. I think thats how you test it. Now ont force it to rotate LOL

Other variables are gearing it down smaller piniong this will give you punch less top speed.
Or Gearing it up for top speed but motor will take longer to get there.

Then you have ESC timing you can advanced the timing to motor start cooking it. =D

Check if you transmitter has throttle control/Punch control of some sort turn it off.
So it doesnt delay the punch.








__________________
Design Of Things !!!
iPearl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2009, 01:53 PM   #24
Tech Addict
 
gacjr0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 725
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

I would think about:

THR end point on the radio
calibration between the radio and ESC
ESC profile/punch control
binding drivetrain
drivetrain differences like pulley vs gear transmission ratios (are they different between the 2 cars you mentioned?)
is your FDR a good one?
__________________
-Dangerous with power tools-
gacjr0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2009, 02:22 PM   #25
Tech Elite
 
iPearl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 2,889
Trader Rating: 96 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to iPearl Send a message via MSN to iPearl
Default

Oh i am not the OP lol
I just posted how a belt looks tensioned.
Since we still havent determined if his belt is loose or not.

My cars run Fine ^^ Love em can easily keep up with other shaftys.
Today i get my first shaft drive though ROFL

Also calibrate Transmitter to ESC to make sure you actually have full throttle set up.
__________________
Design Of Things !!!
iPearl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2009, 05:15 PM   #26
jcr
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Toronto
Posts: 446
Default

thanks for the response, I guess I'll have to try the tighter diff the next time I'm at the track. Probably after the new year
jcr is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Belt Driven vs. Shaft Driven Allen Sondej Electric On-Road 69 11-05-2004 08:51 PM
Faster? Belt-Shaft Losifreak Electric On-Road 69 08-30-2004 11:06 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:17 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net