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Old 02-20-2012, 09:13 PM   #1321
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Which Tamiya spur gear is compatible with Sakura zero spur?
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:34 PM   #1322
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Which Tamiya spur gear is compatible with Sakura zero spur?
A lot of spur gears will fit the holder. Any reason you want the tamiya? Tamiya uses a metric pitch that can make pinions hard to come by where I live. Most of the guys at our track converted to 64 pitch gears. I think my current spur was from Robinson.
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:15 AM   #1323
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so how similar are the sakura and the 416(nobody i know has a 416). do they share any other parts. i like sakura but i like tamiyas quality alot more than 3racing
Just a point to this. A friend at the track was running a Tamiya 417x. He has gone through Tamiya c-hubs like mad. I have never broken a Sakura one.

There are parts that are interchangeable between the 2, but I personally would not swap because of parts quality unless you are going to Xray.
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:02 AM   #1324
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Perhaps it is not the car that is at fault with the breaking of the c-hubs and other parts.
I have been driving both (TRF416X Lipo and Sakura Zero) last year and didn't break a c-hub or suspension arm on both cars.
Pehaps it is the layout of the tracks you guys running??
All i hear form people who are breaking parts is that they drive indoor on tight twisty tracks with unforgiving track barriers
I have been driving both cars indoor as well and the only time i broke one of the plastic parts is with temps below 10 celcius and me driving true a corner at full lock and then some one hit me ghost driving.
That is it on the Sakura.
I melted a geardiff on the Tamiya but that was due to a stuck bearing.
This was in a complete season of races.
Mostly outdoor and some indoor.
It is not the material that is at fault but a combination or track layout(barriers),driver and material.
I am not the best driver there is but even i manage to keep the car together a whole season without breaking much parts.
I ran the Sakura in stock boosted 13.5 class and the Tamiya in Mod or stock boosted classes.
Yes there are better parts but without breaking the hubs or steering blocks you knacker the axles and those cost even more then some of the plastic parts

regards Roy
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:33 AM   #1325
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I drive indoors on tight tracks also with unforgiving boards and in over two years haven't broken a thing. That is until last Sunday when on my third warmup lap during open practice with my Zero S somebody walked onto the end of the main straight while I was blasting down the straight at full tilt. I hit his boot and broke the front suspension arm, C-hub, body post, sway bar hardware link and ripped the body. I was pretty upset as my day was over as I didn't have any spares on hand.
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:36 AM   #1326
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Just a point to this. A friend at the track was running a Tamiya 417x. He has gone through Tamiya c-hubs like mad. I have never broken a Sakura one.

There are parts that are interchangeable between the 2, but I personally would not swap because of parts quality unless you are going to Xray.
I agree when it comes to quality xray is hard to beat. but if parts are interchangeable Im going to buy parts from square and spec r. I guess I just like having the option. square ti screws are awesome. thanks man I definetly wont be buying tamiyas c hubs now.
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:40 AM   #1327
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What the hell was he doing on the track when there was practice??
Or was he trying to get rid of the competition??

regards Roy

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I drive indoors on tight tracks also with unforgiving boards and in over two years haven't broken a thing. That is until last Sunday when on my third warmup lap during open practice with my Zero S somebody walked onto the end of the main straight while I was blasting down the straight at full tilt. I hit his boot and broke the front suspension arm, C-hub, body post, sway bar hardware link and ripped the body. I was pretty upset as my day was over as I didn't have any spares on hand.
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:49 AM   #1328
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What the hell was he doing on the track when there was practice??
Or was he trying to get rid of the competition??

regards Roy
He stopped to chat with the race director and just stepped onto the track at the wrong time. It was a fluke but ended my day.
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:56 AM   #1329
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Did he say sorry???
I had somthing similar and they guy had the nerv to call me ass because i run into him.
This was not in a practice run but at a A finale
Not as much damage as you but one critical part i didn't have with my broke

regards Roy
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:02 AM   #1330
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Did he say sorry???
I had somthing similar and they guy had the nerv to call me ass because i run into him.
This was not in a practice run but at a A finale
Not as much damage as you but one critical part i didn't have with my broke

regards Roy
He apologized and I'm sure he felt terrible knowing he just ended my day before it even began. What hurts more is that I likely won't have replacements in time for the next club race in two weeks. I have to rely on mail order for parts.
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:15 AM   #1331
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a similar thing happened to me. I set my car on the track in the wrong spot one time(just wasnt thinking). a 1/12th scale ran right into my car and broke his front wheel, bent a screw and paint flakes went everywhere. He said he didnt care but I felt so bad I walked into the shop and bought him a new pair of tires. couldnt help it, I have to be a nice guy.
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:26 PM   #1332
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Parts don't break on their own. They need help. If you never hit anything I doubt you'll ever break anything.

I definitely don't blame the 3Racing parts for breaking, I'm totally to blame for breaking all of them. I definitely am not very gentle with the car and I'm not the best driver. I don't think I've seen any quality problems with any of the cars or parts I've bought. Personally, even if the parts are lesser quality, the price break still makes it worthwhile to me. Everything related to the Zero's is pretty much 50% the price of the competition -- original kit, individual parts, everything. Hanging on the wall at the home track -- 2 Zero steering knuckles are the same price as a 1 Xray steering knuckle. If they last half as long you are still breaking even. Are Xray materials and tolerances better? Probably. Twice as good? I doubt it.
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:48 PM   #1333
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Parts don't break on their own. They need help. If you never hit anything I doubt you'll ever break anything.

I definitely don't blame the 3Racing parts for breaking, I'm totally to blame for breaking all of them. I definitely am not very gentle with the car and I'm not the best driver. I don't think I've seen any quality problems with any of the cars or parts I've bought. Personally, even if the parts are lesser quality, the price break still makes it worthwhile to me. Everything related to the Zero's is pretty much 50% the price of the competition -- original kit, individual parts, everything. Hanging on the wall at the home track -- 2 Zero steering knuckles are the same price as a 1 Xray steering knuckle. If they last half as long you are still breaking even. Are Xray materials and tolerances better? Probably. Twice as good? I doubt it.
I agree. I had a horrible driving night last week. There wasn't a wall I didn't hit. The car held up to all of the abuse. Didn't break anything. I never thought of switching parts for durability. 3racing parts work just fine.
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:55 PM   #1334
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Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Perhaps it is not the car that is at fault with the breaking of the c-hubs and other parts.
I have been driving both (TRF416X Lipo and Sakura Zero) last year and didn't break a c-hub or suspension arm on both cars.
Pehaps it is the layout of the tracks you guys running??
All i hear form people who are breaking parts is that they drive indoor on tight twisty tracks with unforgiving track barriers
I have been driving both cars indoor as well and the only time i broke one of the plastic parts is with temps below 10 celcius and me driving true a corner at full lock and then some one hit me ghost driving.
That is it on the Sakura.
I melted a geardiff on the Tamiya but that was due to a stuck bearing.
This was in a complete season of races.
Mostly outdoor and some indoor.
It is not the material that is at fault but a combination or track layout(barriers),driver and material.
I am not the best driver there is but even i manage to keep the car together a whole season without breaking much parts.
I ran the Sakura in stock boosted 13.5 class and the Tamiya in Mod or stock boosted classes.
Yes there are better parts but without breaking the hubs or steering blocks you knacker the axles and those cost even more then some of the plastic parts

regards Roy
The guy in question has a 417x (not sure if the c-hubs are the same as a 416x), and is a much better driver then myself. We drive the same tracks, in the same heats and same mains. Yes, tight, twisty indoor carpet with unforgiving walls. I hit them a lot more and a lot harder then he does. My Sakura has never broken a c-hub or other front end part (minus the plastic spool outdrives). He breaks on the most minor of hits, where the big hits he usually does not. He would come back after a 6 min qualifier with both sides broken. Repeatedly.

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Originally Posted by SteveM View Post
I drive indoors on tight tracks also with unforgiving boards and in over two years haven't broken a thing. That is until last Sunday when on my third warmup lap during open practice with my Zero S somebody walked onto the end of the main straight while I was blasting down the straight at full tilt. I hit his boot and broke the front suspension arm, C-hub, body post, sway bar hardware link and ripped the body. I was pretty upset as my day was over as I didn't have any spares on hand.
That is the worst. I hate having to go home over something silly. Been there, done that.

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Originally Posted by FauxMako View Post
Parts don't break on their own. They need help. If you never hit anything I doubt you'll ever break anything.

I definitely don't blame the 3Racing parts for breaking, I'm totally to blame for breaking all of them. I definitely am not very gentle with the car and I'm not the best driver. I don't think I've seen any quality problems with any of the cars or parts I've bought. Personally, even if the parts are lesser quality, the price break still makes it worthwhile to me. Everything related to the Zero's is pretty much 50% the price of the competition -- original kit, individual parts, everything. Hanging on the wall at the home track -- 2 Zero steering knuckles are the same price as a 1 Xray steering knuckle. If they last half as long you are still breaking even. Are Xray materials and tolerances better? Probably. Twice as good? I doubt it.
Parts break. I think the idea of replacing all of the plastics preventitively on this car is a bit much. Sure, if you break one, replace with an Xray or Tamiya, but I do not think that the plastic quality is so horrible that they aren't good enough out of the box. Now the stock Sakura bumper to me is garbage, and that was never even installed on the car, the Xray one was. Maybe that is why I never break front end bits.
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:57 PM   #1335
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I agree. I had a horrible driving night last week. There wasn't a wall I didn't hit. The car held up to all of the abuse. Didn't break anything. I never thought of switching parts for durability. 3racing parts work just fine.
I was impressed, you didn't just hit every wall, you hit the left wall on the straight like 4 times in the same lap.

I saw your driver figure trying to bail out...
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