Ask Paul Lemieux, RC America/MOTIV/Gravity RC
#376
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Hello Paul,
2010 is well underway of being a great year for you. All the hard work from such a great spirited guy is really paying off. Two down - two to go. Give them hell in Porter, TX and on to Germany for 1/10 Electric Worlds.
One quick question... Do you run the stock plastic outdrives in MOD or the aluminum outdrives with the blades? Can you also explain your choice.
Stop by Jackson, NJ track to get some MOD practice with me before you go oversees.
Thanks
- Randy
2010 is well underway of being a great year for you. All the hard work from such a great spirited guy is really paying off. Two down - two to go. Give them hell in Porter, TX and on to Germany for 1/10 Electric Worlds.
One quick question... Do you run the stock plastic outdrives in MOD or the aluminum outdrives with the blades? Can you also explain your choice.
Stop by Jackson, NJ track to get some MOD practice with me before you go oversees.
Thanks
- Randy
#377
Tech Champion
Hello Paul,
2010 is well underway of being a great year for you. All the hard work from such a great spirited guy is really paying off. Two down - two to go. Give them hell in Porter, TX and on to Germany for 1/10 Electric Worlds.
One quick question... Do you run the stock plastic outdrives in MOD or the aluminum outdrives with the blades? Can you also explain your choice.
Stop by Jackson, NJ track to get some MOD practice with me before you go oversees.
Thanks
- Randy
2010 is well underway of being a great year for you. All the hard work from such a great spirited guy is really paying off. Two down - two to go. Give them hell in Porter, TX and on to Germany for 1/10 Electric Worlds.
One quick question... Do you run the stock plastic outdrives in MOD or the aluminum outdrives with the blades? Can you also explain your choice.
Stop by Jackson, NJ track to get some MOD practice with me before you go oversees.
Thanks
- Randy
http://www.rctech.net/forum/racing-f...ce-champs.html
#378
Hi all, sorry about the delay, i have just been thrashing on WC stuff and had the gas nats last week also.
Hi, I just shimm the shocks iether on the tower or the arm just to get the shock verticle, with the long front wheelbase i run 2.5mms behind the shock to compinsate.
As for the Foam im not 100% sure what it does on the track, in theory it keeps the bladder from colapsing as much threw the stroke and increases rebound a little, i will run without the foam then sometimes with it. now im back to running the foam but i still build my shocks pretty dead.
Thanks!
Exactly, thanks for not going with the obvious rip on that one, LOL.
Thanks.
Hi, .1mm sounds miniscule to me. I have run my car before with much more on one side than the other and have not had a major problem. i wouldnt worry about it atall. i bet what you find on low bite has more to do with the diffs being off center as it is with all cars.
you should be good to go. Thanks
Cool, good job!.
Hi, Thanks!
I did run all the 1 pece suspension mounts on the car. to make 1425 i had to run quite a bit of leas also. for the speedo i almost always run the softest setting, with lipo their is a ton of power, if i ran punch 4 or something i would just spin the tires more. and i did have to dreamel the tower mount to let the ball cup clear. Thanks
Hi Ed, Thanks!. i have been running this link for quite a while now, it just makes the car drive right for me, i feel that it gives steering without making the car super hard to drive. see ya.
I basicly did it because i wanted a super long camber link but didnt want to give up any camber gain, this is why it is shimmed high on the caster block.
Thats about it but i normally use this front link.
I would try narrower front hexes and a longer rear wheelbase by 1mm. both of these should help the car on power and the hexs should keep the entry corner steering. Good luck.
Hi, for the ackermann i always like the post being forward. basicly the less ackermann you have the less the outside wheel turns (loaded tire) this is why the car will have more exit steering with less ackerman, that being said if you dont run lock to lock steering and just adjust the ackermann but measure the outside tire degree and keep that the same i think that you will have a totally different result. so its relly how its applied more than anything.
as for the camber link im not sure, im assuming that the car wanted two things, 1 to roll less which a shorter link will do and 2 being more camber gain and it just worked so thats good.
Thanks Guys.
Honestly im not sure, I have tested it before and thought that the hards gave more corner speed but i have felt the opposite at other tracks also. i dont know that anyone really knows how much caster blocks flex or in what way even.
Ill practice wherever i can, definately winthrope harbor more, but i do a lot of traveling so i think i will beable to stay sharp.
Hi Jack, good to hear from you. Thanks man. im not sure on the race yet. ill do some planning for other races after both worlds are over at the end of next month. See ya
Hi Randy, Thanks! I use the aluminum outdrives with the blades for two reasons, 1 being that the plastic ones can break, especially with 50mm dog bones and the other being that in mod they can wear that little indent in the inside very quickly. i do think that the plastics work slightly better with out the blades but i in mod i would replace them a lot.
I wont have any time to come over their to practice BC i leave in a week and have a TON to prepair still, but id love to if i could.
see ya soon!
Hey Paul,
2 questions regarding your set-up
- What does having 3mm shims under the shock do for handling?
- What does running the foam in the shock bladder do or not do for the shock?
I currently run 1mm under the shock and do not run the foam under the bladder.
Nice win at Reedy!
2 questions regarding your set-up
- What does having 3mm shims under the shock do for handling?
- What does running the foam in the shock bladder do or not do for the shock?
I currently run 1mm under the shock and do not run the foam under the bladder.
Nice win at Reedy!
As for the Foam im not 100% sure what it does on the track, in theory it keeps the bladder from colapsing as much threw the stroke and increases rebound a little, i will run without the foam then sometimes with it. now im back to running the foam but i still build my shocks pretty dead.
Thanks!
Thanks.
Hey Paul, I have a ? for you. On my T3 I had a slight toe in difference in the rear, after a lot of re-adjusting of the pivot block I got it close to the same from side to side, I ended up having to put a .001 shim between the lower roll center holder and the bulkhead to make the sides equal.
Once everything was setup I tried my car on the garage floor(very slippery) and when rolling really slow the car looked like it was walking (or rocking) from side to side, like one side was trying to catch up to the other side and then vice versa. Yet when the car is on carpet or something with traction I don't see that oscilation effect. (not sure if the car did this prior to the shim) But now i'm wondering if the shim is enough that it has changed the wheel base of the car from side to side and this is the cause of the problem, or do all cars do this as a reflection of being 4 wheel drive and running rear toe in?
Also congrats on the Reedy win.
Thanks
Once everything was setup I tried my car on the garage floor(very slippery) and when rolling really slow the car looked like it was walking (or rocking) from side to side, like one side was trying to catch up to the other side and then vice versa. Yet when the car is on carpet or something with traction I don't see that oscilation effect. (not sure if the car did this prior to the shim) But now i'm wondering if the shim is enough that it has changed the wheel base of the car from side to side and this is the cause of the problem, or do all cars do this as a reflection of being 4 wheel drive and running rear toe in?
Also congrats on the Reedy win.
Thanks
you should be good to go. Thanks
Hey Paul, congratulations on the big win. You had a lot of people pulling for you!
I heard that Rheinhard's mechanic set up three cars for every practice run so he could try more setups. Sounds like a pretty big advantage for him, and still you overcame it. Wow.
On your setup sheet it says ESC program 1 -- is that real? You run with the current limiter set to "low" like for 2WD offroad? Is that typical for TC with a 4T motor? Also it looks like you ran quite a bit of ballast beyond what you'd need for 1420 grams -- is that also typical for a big mod motor?
Did you run the one-piece holder for the front of the rear suspension pins?
For the front inner camber link mount, did you have to dremel on the shock tower mount for the ballcup to clear? If you had time to post a photo that might help. Cheers!
I heard that Rheinhard's mechanic set up three cars for every practice run so he could try more setups. Sounds like a pretty big advantage for him, and still you overcame it. Wow.
On your setup sheet it says ESC program 1 -- is that real? You run with the current limiter set to "low" like for 2WD offroad? Is that typical for TC with a 4T motor? Also it looks like you ran quite a bit of ballast beyond what you'd need for 1420 grams -- is that also typical for a big mod motor?
Did you run the one-piece holder for the front of the rear suspension pins?
For the front inner camber link mount, did you have to dremel on the shock tower mount for the ballcup to clear? If you had time to post a photo that might help. Cheers!
I did run all the 1 pece suspension mounts on the car. to make 1425 i had to run quite a bit of leas also. for the speedo i almost always run the softest setting, with lipo their is a ton of power, if i ran punch 4 or something i would just spin the tires more. and i did have to dreamel the tower mount to let the ball cup clear. Thanks
Hi, Paul.
I've read your set-up and have a question.
How did you find ? this solution of the front upper camber link.
Did you mis steer or give this more steering.
Strange solution, it worked for you ygm.
Again congrats with your big win, I know you have to fight for it.
Ed
I've read your set-up and have a question.
How did you find ? this solution of the front upper camber link.
Did you mis steer or give this more steering.
Strange solution, it worked for you ygm.
Again congrats with your big win, I know you have to fight for it.
Ed
Thats about it but i normally use this front link.
Hi Paul,
Im running my t3 with the set up below, and it oversteers on power. Not just a little bit, but absolutely diabolical. I can move the ackermann back and it helps slightly, but it then has a tiny push. Other than that it steers really nicely. Any suggestions as to what to try?
thanks
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=1593&setup=t3
Im running my t3 with the set up below, and it oversteers on power. Not just a little bit, but absolutely diabolical. I can move the ackermann back and it helps slightly, but it then has a tiny push. Other than that it steers really nicely. Any suggestions as to what to try?
thanks
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=1593&setup=t3
I would try narrower front hexes and a longer rear wheelbase by 1mm. both of these should help the car on power and the hexs should keep the entry corner steering. Good luck.
Hi Paul,
Can you explain your opinion of Ackerman? Specifically running the tab in the front versus the rear.
Also, this weekend I found that shortening the front links gave the car a lot more corner speed. In my mind, it should have reduced the front traction because the car is rolling less. We are running on a low traction parking lot track.
Could you please explain why I picked up so much more corner speed? The car is in the upper outer position with 1 mm of shim on the hub and 2 degrees of camber. The rear is the lower inner position with 1 mm shim and 2 degrees of camber.
Thanks!
Can you explain your opinion of Ackerman? Specifically running the tab in the front versus the rear.
Also, this weekend I found that shortening the front links gave the car a lot more corner speed. In my mind, it should have reduced the front traction because the car is rolling less. We are running on a low traction parking lot track.
Could you please explain why I picked up so much more corner speed? The car is in the upper outer position with 1 mm of shim on the hub and 2 degrees of camber. The rear is the lower inner position with 1 mm shim and 2 degrees of camber.
Thanks!
as for the camber link im not sure, im assuming that the car wanted two things, 1 to roll less which a shorter link will do and 2 being more camber gain and it just worked so thats good.
Hi Paul,
Congradulations on your victory at the Reedy Race .
I have one quick question. What made you decide to you the "H" (hard) c block & steering arms? Often people will say this is for carpet but I have begun to see more and more people use it with asphault racing. What does this do for you? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Congradulations on your victory at the Reedy Race .
I have one quick question. What made you decide to you the "H" (hard) c block & steering arms? Often people will say this is for carpet but I have begun to see more and more people use it with asphault racing. What does this do for you? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Honestly im not sure, I have tested it before and thought that the hards gave more corner speed but i have felt the opposite at other tracks also. i dont know that anyone really knows how much caster blocks flex or in what way even.
Hello Paul,
2010 is well underway of being a great year for you. All the hard work from such a great spirited guy is really paying off. Two down - two to go. Give them hell in Porter, TX and on to Germany for 1/10 Electric Worlds.
One quick question... Do you run the stock plastic outdrives in MOD or the aluminum outdrives with the blades? Can you also explain your choice.
Stop by Jackson, NJ track to get some MOD practice with me before you go oversees.
Thanks
- Randy
2010 is well underway of being a great year for you. All the hard work from such a great spirited guy is really paying off. Two down - two to go. Give them hell in Porter, TX and on to Germany for 1/10 Electric Worlds.
One quick question... Do you run the stock plastic outdrives in MOD or the aluminum outdrives with the blades? Can you also explain your choice.
Stop by Jackson, NJ track to get some MOD practice with me before you go oversees.
Thanks
- Randy
I wont have any time to come over their to practice BC i leave in a week and have a TON to prepair still, but id love to if i could.
see ya soon!
#379
Paul is it true that Xray is woking on some upcoming design...
changes? Have you tested the new touring car?
#380
#381
Tech Champion
iTrader: (56)
Thunder Power Balancing Question
I have just picked up some Thunder Power 5200 50c and am using Team Orion Clubman Lipo Edition chargers.
I am looking to get info on a balance adapter that plugs directly into my charger and into the battery. I am trying to bypass the balance board type adapters
What is the balance plug on the TPs called?
Thanks for any input and feel free to PM me.
Paul also feel free to join us at Fantasy World for the 26th annual Summer Sizzler!!!!
www.fantasyworldracing.com
Thanks,
Kyle
I am looking to get info on a balance adapter that plugs directly into my charger and into the battery. I am trying to bypass the balance board type adapters
What is the balance plug on the TPs called?
Thanks for any input and feel free to PM me.
Paul also feel free to join us at Fantasy World for the 26th annual Summer Sizzler!!!!
www.fantasyworldracing.com
Thanks,
Kyle
#383
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
Posts: 8,854
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
ohhh great 13 twooo
Paul I think this thing owes you a pint of blood.....long live the Jinkin
Last edited by Kevin K; 06-21-2010 at 04:26 PM. Reason: Razor scooter
#384
Paulie, Rob King is at it again! LMAO. Oh the good old days!
Best of luck at the world's! Bring it to them!
Best of luck at the world's! Bring it to them!
#385
Hey Paul,
why arent you in Germany yet??
a small question, i've been looking at your set-ups (thanks for the link) and saw that you run the speed 6 withe DNA's body!! why is that??
cheers
Ali
why arent you in Germany yet??
a small question, i've been looking at your set-ups (thanks for the link) and saw that you run the speed 6 withe DNA's body!! why is that??
cheers
Ali
#386
hello paul
i have been trying to figure out witch is the best low profile servo to get ?
i would like to know what kind you would use in a low profile, because my kopro does not want to track straight and i can not do anything to get it to go straight. any help would be appreciated thanks
ciao !!!!!
i would like to know what kind you would use in a low profile, because my kopro does not want to track straight and i can not do anything to get it to go straight. any help would be appreciated thanks
ciao !!!!!
#387
When running an SXX you can't really shove it under the deck (too tall with heatsink and fan on top) so running the belt to the right doesn't help much with balance (only thing that moves is the receiver and it is light).
On the other hand, if you run the belt on the left you have space between the belt and the lipo that you can use for ballast, and the ballast ends up slightly to the right of center which is more helpful to balance the car than if it were slightly to the left.
#390
Hi Paul,
Nice run at the 1/12th Worlds. I saw one picture of your car and you where running a Pulse based motor, just wondering what you ended up running, base and wind?
Good Luck in TC.
Nice run at the 1/12th Worlds. I saw one picture of your car and you where running a Pulse based motor, just wondering what you ended up running, base and wind?
Good Luck in TC.